Locomotive Annie Posted March 14, 2013 For the very first time I attempted to give my newly built steam electric loco a run and the result was fairly underwhelming. The loco is built on a brand new RC train plate, the motor is brand new, the RC tramsmitter is brand new and so is the connector wire between the electrics and the motor bogie. I'm using Panasonic Evolta batteries for the first run instead of rechargeables and not a great deal happened when I pushed the go button. Yes the 'on' switch on the loco was indeed 'on' by the way. It sort of wanted to go so I checked all the connections and made sure all the contacts in the battery holder were shiny bright and still the response was very weak. Since I did have a second new RC motor block I substituted it for the motor that was in the loco and things were slightly better in that the loco could now move backwards and forwards without being prodded, but it didn't convince me that it would be able to haul anything. At the moment I've got the loco doing circuits on a circle of large radius track, but I can't say I'm very convinced. Any ideas as to what might be the problem? - because I'm feeling really stumped here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ronenson Posted March 14, 2013 Just asking the obvious: did you try other/newer batteries? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Electricsteam Posted March 14, 2013 (edited) For the very first time I attempted to give my newly built steam electric loco a run and the result was fairly underwhelming. The loco is built on a brand new RC train plate, the motor is brand new, the RC tramsmitter is brand new and so is the connector wire between the electrics and the motor bogie. I'm using Panasonic Evolta batteries for the first run instead of rechargeables and not a great deal happened when I pushed the go button. Yes the 'on' switch on the loco was indeed 'on' by the way. It sort of wanted to go so I checked all the connections and made sure all the contacts in the battery holder were shiny bright and still the response was very weak. Since I did have a second new RC motor block I substituted it for the motor that was in the loco and things were slightly better in that the loco could now move backwards and forwards without being prodded, but it didn't convince me that it would be able to haul anything. At the moment I've got the loco doing circuits on a circle of large radius track, but I can't say I'm very convinced. Any ideas as to what might be the problem? - because I'm feeling really stumped here. Knock-Off batteries really don't go great with PF... I recomend springing for some Duracell... Or you could make an adapter for trusty old J Battery. J batteries exist. Edited March 14, 2013 by Electricsteam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Locomotive Annie Posted March 14, 2013 The batteries were all brand new out of the packet, so unless they are duds I'm not sure what the problem might be. Unfortunately I don't have a multimeter anymore to test the voltage since my daughter blew mine up. Knock-Off batteries really don't go great with PF... I recomend springing for some Duracell... Or you could make an adapter for trusty old J Battery. J batteries exist. It's the older RC system, not PF Electricsteam. I thought Panasonic Evoltas were supposed to be pretty darn good, - or at least their adverts say so Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spitfire2865 Posted March 14, 2013 Hrmm...Interesting problem.. Probably something with the batteries. Hard to tell though. Good luck anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Locomotive Annie Posted March 14, 2013 Well I've just tried the same six Evolta batteries in my Banbao freight loco which also works on a RC system and it ran just fine with good speed & etc. So now I'm well and truly stumped and haven't a clue what could be wrong with my loco. It's sitting in disgrace in the cripple siding beside my half built loco shed at the moment and it can stay there until I'm in the mood to delve into its RC circuit board. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bamos Posted March 14, 2013 You said it was a steam electric is it possible it could be a mechanical issue like one of the drivers rubbing on a frame somewhere or a friction pin use in place of a connecter pin. Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
branolego Posted March 15, 2013 try hooking it strait from the battery to the motor itself. maybe the receiver is faulty. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dan-147 Posted March 15, 2013 Just a hunch... If the wheels are too tight against the motor the friction will build up rather quickly. Try removing the wheels and axles completely to see if the motor runs well on it's own. Also, if you are using the decorative side frames with the round cutouts for the technic axles they could be a large part of the problem. My Maersk locomotive had that situation. I enlarged the cutouts with a circular file and it made a huge difference. Dan-147 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zephyr1934 Posted March 15, 2013 Yes, you want to slip into diagnostic mode to try to isolate where the problem is. As Dan-147 suggested, pull the wheels and see if the motor spins okay. Then see if you can find something else to power the motors (e.g, a PF battery box and a converter cable) to make sure the motors work. Then see if you can find something else to power from your train base (e.g., a light) to make sure the RC base works. If you find a malfunctioning part, lego might replace it for you if you call customer service. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alainneke Posted March 15, 2013 I'm using Panasonic Evolta batteries for the first run instead of rechargeables and not a great deal happened when I pushed the go button. Sorry for stating the obvious, but you do know you have to push the "go" button several (up to 7) times to make the train move? It sounds like you're running the train on the first speed step, and aside from buzzing, it won't go anywhere... Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Locomotive Annie Posted March 15, 2013 Thank you very much for the advice guys So far I've determined that the wheels aren't binding and that the cosmetic frames aren't rubbing on the axle ends. Removing the loco from the track and operating the controls with the wheels running free results in the wheels turning over ok, but not without much torque. My feeling is that the RC circuit is somehow robbing voltage and not letting full power through to the motor. I'm still waiting for my orders of PF gear to arrive so unfortunately I cant substitute a PF battery, but I do have plenty of other vintage 9volt and RC parts that I can try substituting to see if I can find the problem. I know my steam electric is a 'what if' loco, but I would still like it to earn its keep as it looks quite good at the head of a train. Sorry for stating the obvious, but you do know you have to push the "go" button several (up to 7) times to make the train move? It sounds like you're running the train on the first speed step, and aside from buzzing, it won't go anywhere... Good luck! Thank you alaineke I did not know that! I'm going to try that right now....... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Locomotive Annie Posted March 15, 2013 (edited) Hey wow! it goes great! Plainly I need a 'L' plate sticker to put on this loco until i get the hang of driving it I was tricked by my Banbao freight loco, that old brute uses a different control system with forward and reverse buttons and a separate speed control. Thank you for putting up with my silly inability to drive my own loco, - when the RC trains were in the shops I was looking after small children and being a Mum so I missed out on that part of my Lego education. Edit: New Zealand's first issue copper-nickle decimal currency coins were among some of the heaviest in the world and when the new smaller and lighter coins were issued I kept a good number of the old coins. They are very useful for weighting things and on test with around $NZ3.50 in loose change in its boiler my steam electric loco hauled three heavy coaches through the Kotanga station yard. Some slip on the driving wheels, but I think the problem might be the ancient NOS traction tyres on the wheels. I'll get some 'O' rings down at the tractor dealers tomorrow and hopefully that will be a suitable fix. Edited March 15, 2013 by Locomotive Annie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alainneke Posted March 15, 2013 You're welcome! Have fun with the train :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peterab Posted March 15, 2013 Some slip on the driving wheels, but I think the problem might be the ancient NOS traction tyres on the wheels. I'll get some 'O' rings down at the tractor dealers tomorrow and hopefully that will be a suitable fix. Yeah the original tyres were not much good. Using the newer ones will help a lot. I also use two motors if I need to pull a long train (which I often like to at train shows). If you have another newer LEGO engine with a cosmetic un-powered bogie you might find it has better traction tyres. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Electricsteam Posted March 15, 2013 Ha ha ha ha! Wow I was expecting a reply about my Idea for a J-battery adapter! I'd just be happy to hear you guys know what J-batteries are! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Locomotive Annie Posted March 15, 2013 Ha ha ha ha! Wow I was expecting a reply about my Idea for a J-battery adapter! I'd just be happy to hear you guys know what J-batteries are! It's a 6volt battery for camera equipment isn't it? Have you tried using these in a loco before ES? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Electricsteam Posted March 16, 2013 It's a 6volt battery for camera equipment isn't it? Have you tried using these in a loco before ES? Nahhh I just went on a 3 month search for the battery for my Kodak Pleaser camera... (Loves Old Cameras) But there are a small battery about 4 studs.... I don't know why any has tried that before... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zephyr1934 Posted March 16, 2013 That's great that it was something so simple (seems like that's the case for me, 9 times out of 10 when you hit a wall only in retrospect do you see the simple solution). You've just got to learn, if at first you don't succeed, bang harder on the keyboard (grin). As others have posted, if you have the earlier traction tires on the RC motors, you will probably want to replace them. They do not have a tight grip on the wheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Konrad Posted March 19, 2013 change the rubber traction tires on the rims. Do you remember the old lego soccer sets? they use to use those white rubber bands for the goalies etc? those are soft rubber and do wonders for traction on rc and pf motor rims ;) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Locomotive Annie Posted March 20, 2013 Olivia shows us two of the old traction tyres that were fitted to the RC motor bogie. The replacements are plain black 'O' rings from the local engineering supply and I hope they will be better than the originals. I haven't seen those white rubber bands before Konrad, - are they still available? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Konrad Posted March 20, 2013 Olivia shows us two of the old traction tyres that were fitted to the RC motor bogie. The replacements are plain black 'O' rings from the local engineering supply and I hope they will be better than the originals. I haven't seen those white rubber bands before Konrad, - are they still available? I am not sure if TLG still makes those parts. That being said, O rings from a hardware store will be lightyears ahead of the translucent hard plastic TLG used on those wheels. Even the PF passenger train, a light set had crazy wheel slip with those. Since i upgraded the traction tires I can honestly say it picked up 40% more speed, even enough to derail in a corner on full throttle! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alainneke Posted March 20, 2013 Olivia shows us two of the old traction tyres that were fitted to the RC motor bogie. The replacements are plain black 'O' rings from the local engineering supply and I hope they will be better than the originals. I haven't seen those white rubber bands before Konrad, - are they still available? Olivia has some serious muscles, jacking up the train like that! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Locomotive Annie Posted March 20, 2013 Olivia is an amazing young lady alainneke, - she's been such a big help to me with keeping my trains in good repair. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
