Foremast Jack

Eurobricks Citizen
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Posts posted by Foremast Jack


  1. Take a look... see if I am going in the right direction...

    lddscreenshot1_copy.png

    :pir-oh3: Ooh. Very nice! I like how you're addressing the issues I was having with "tapering" the transition from one to two studs. Keep up the good work! :thumbup: I might just have to go back and redesign my ship again.


  2. Sebeus, you must stay very busy, to continually come up with new and intriguing techniques whilst keeping us hanging on the edge of our seats awaiting updates for previous projects. I can imagine you having created some sort of brick-dispensing apparatus that straps to your chest. I see you walking about the house just randomly building things here and there. :grin:


  3. Just interested, are you going to give this ship some sails or not, as with the Flying Dutchman sometimes people tend not to use sails?

    :jollyroger:

    Unless I'm mistaken his first version had sails, so I can't see why he wouldn't, at the very least, use those same ones again; if not make something even better! :pir-classic:


  4. Right, I meant the first one but it wasn't so obvious indeed, the black hull isn't really a technique, it's more like a wide interpretation of an inverted roof :pir_laugh2:

    (litterally wide).

    So we'll call the second Sebeus' Floating Upside-down House Technique! :pir-tongue:

    For the first technique I wonder if one couldn't build an inner-bulkhead behind the outer so the gaps weren't so obvious.

    !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    (this is me excited pirate_classic.gif)

    Just wanted to say how much I enjoy your name Frank. It always makes me laugh. There's nothing better than a good pun... except maybe a good woman...and fresh fruit, but you get the idea. :wink:


  5. Ok, I will try some single brick width designs... It may not be completely accurate, but I was going to attach the bowspirt to the base of the foremast on the gun deck, instead of the lowest desk of my ship.

    Oh I really wasn't expecting you to take the bowsprit all the way down. I don't think anyone actually has yet (not that I've seen at least). I was just sharing some naval knowledge.

    As for the prow design, if you're so inclined, take a look at this thread I started the other day. Perhaps you could be the one to confound the wise. :wink:


  6. I like the first one's look a lot. But the down-side of it that first came to mind, as you point out, is all the little gaps. I don't think I could bring myself to use such a technique. Although it does work quite nicely for a floundering vessel. So perhaps you could patent the technique as the de facto requirement for drowning craft in all future MOC's. :wink:

    The second one looks pretty good as well, but I think the first has a better shape overall. Since the one is so good, the other looks worse than it actually may be. But perhaps worth it ultimately regardless.

    As for the technique's name: I should think it to be common knowledge that if you want to name a discovered something after yourself you have to do so in Latin, to avoid any allusions to vanity and pride. :pir-classic: So, if I decide to make a shipwreck I'll be sure to reference the use of Modus Navum Flectere Sebeum. :pir-grin:

    p.s. You can't call two, separate and distinct techniques by the same name. So you need to distinguish them in name somehow. :pir-tongue:


  7. Also, how many studs should be between the posts that hold up the beams? Right now, I have between 4 and 5.

    Ummm well I guess that depends how wide the ship is. (I'm assumed here the "beams" you're talking about are the beams that run the width of the ship.) On an actual frigate you have a row of stanchions just inside the bulkheads and then a row running down the middle of the ship (in line with the masts). Let's pretend your ship has a beam of 24 studs. To be accurate you'd have 3 rows of stanchions running the length of the ship. One would be centered (in line with the masts or running right along the keel-line), so 12 studs in. The other two would be something like 4-5 studs in from the outer bulkheads. However, I think you really have to just put them where they are needed in order to make sure you have the support you need.


  8. Forgive me for not know the technical terms, but what part is the prow? Is that the part that holds the figure head and the spirit mast?

    Yes the prow is that thinner part of wood at the front of the ship that the figurehead sits atop. (It doesn't technically hold the bowsprit. The bowsprit actually passes through the upper deck, at what is called the knighthead and is attached to the foremast at the foremast step.)


  9. imag0037.jpg

    Whilst the pictures are a little blurry I think they look quite nice. This one above I particularly like. They look very realistic. I think I should like to see a photo from head-on. Keep up the good work. :thumbup:


  10. I'm with Sebeus here. You should think about maybe removing one mid-section. Whilst a length truer to scale would call for something more akin to 7-8 mid-sections, one must keep in mind that the pre-fab hulls don't provide enough beam to be historically accurate. So to counter the lack of width one must shorten the length.

    That being said, I'm personally a big fan of cramming as much historical detail in as possible; so if that requires a disproportionate length in order to accommodate it, I say leave it long.

    ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

    ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

    lddscreenshot3.png

    Just took a closer look at this picture. If you end up sticking with this design for attaching the prow to the bow you may want to think about thinning the prow to a single stud in width. (Gives it a more proper look, in my opinion.)

    p.s. you need to resize photos to 800x600 maximum.


  11. She looks pretty good for a first ship.

    I think there are a couple areas that could use improvement. Namely, the bowsprit is a little to steeply angled (should be more parallel to the deck). Also, I think you should look into perhaps using smaller, brick-built cannons on the quarterdeck due to the limited space there.

    Are you thinking about building her in real life?


  12. great tutorial

    that thing about the hull and the LDD extended rendition is quite brilliant!

    with that i almost have all i need to build a ship!

    now need to see how to make sails (surely a tutorial for that too, just need to find the topic)

    and, OF COURSE, A BIG, no, HUGE LOT OF BROWN PLATES and HINGES and stuff

    I would point you towards the Index. Number III is tutorials. There's pretty much any and everything you could ever wish for to make a pure, slab-sided hunk of perfection.


  13. I'm not trying to take away from this beautiful piece of work, but it doesn't really strike me as "pirate." I mean it has pirates in it. It seems however that they should be raiding this house more than living in it.

    Regardless of whether I think the pirates are out of place or not, doesn't in any way effect how much I like the string of drying fish and the creepers on the side of the house. A great find indeed! I am curious to see what is going on under that overhang on the back side of the house. Seems to be at least a boat of some kind.


  14. I did some search at bricklink for official minifigures,

    Davy Jones, Maccus, Hadras and Bootstrap...

    HOLY DUCTHMAN !

    They are way too expensive, to get all 4 of them at the cheapest price it costs more than €40 !

    Yeah, I noticed that too. I think though once you finally get the Dutchman done you should, at least, as a sort of celebratory gesture, get Captain Jones. (you're version really isn't bad at all. He's quite recognizable, but you should have the real thing, in my opinion at least.)


  15. Unfortunately when I "got too old for LEGO" I got rid of my childhood collection. I can recall it quite vividly however, and I can say that somewhere around:

    80-85%

    of my collection was Pirates. Any time I personally used my allowance or birthday/Christmas money to purchase LEGO, it was always pirates. Gifts I received in the form on LEGO sometimes were from another line. I recollect having received several City sets. But again I was always about Pirates. (I even put Skull's Eye Schooner and Imperial Trading Post on lay-away so I could get them. They costing too much to ever receive them as a gift.)


  16. Kind of..

    I've been to the Dutch dockyard in Lelystad where they are rebuilding the "Zeven Provinciën".

    300px-Model_Zeven_Provincien.jpg

    I've been standing near the prow of the ship, at the very bottom, and the prow was far more wider then I was. If I think the width of a head is about one stud, it would be more accurate to make the prow 2 studs wide.

    But that is just the measurement I used. :pir_laugh2:

    One stud wide prows are realistic on smaller ships instead of large ones.

    What you say is quite true but I think the proportionate ratio is slightly different than what you may realize. Yes, a prow would most accurately be represented with a width of 2 studs. However, this ratio would necessitate that the width of the beam (that being width of the ship) to be larger than is available with the pre-fabricated hulls. Thus, I think it stands to reason that a single stud prow would "appear" to be most realistic. Ultimately though, seeing how attaching a single stud prow to the prefab hull cannot be done without looking worse than simply using a 2 wide, this may all be moot.


  17. Just so you know the "raised eye brow pieces" are not there to keep the ropes of the paint work but they are for the rain and water flowing down along the hull, they direct the water to the sides so it doesn't get in the gun ports.

    and I believe they are called "rain diverters"

    Bart

    A bit off topic for this thread I am sure, but I felt compelled to share this.

    So I was quite taken aback by my complete ignorance on this part of the ship. (I like to think, from time-to-time, that I know a fair bit.) I did some digging around to find the part's name. It was something of a prodigious bother to me. Thankfully, and laughably, I found it. They are called, quite affectionately I might add, the "Gun-port Wriggles." :pir_laugh2:

    Very intersting indeed.

    At times I'm asking myself if it's worth it, to build such a big ship and ignoring these nice little details to stay accurate to the real model which isn't so realistic :pir-hmpf:

    I wouldn't mind some dark red and pearl gold colors either but no, the dutchman is weathered and infested by vile seacreatures :pir-sick:

    And yet there's something royal about the ship.

    I can understand your pain completely. I have been designing a LEGO version of the HMS Interceptor for about 8 months now. I will not be calling her such since the ship used for the HMS Interceptor was a modern tall ship. Instead I have taken her and used the frame and everything about her that is historically accurate for the time period and added thereto to make her more accurate still. I think I'm about ready to start building her in real life. If I don't start I feel I will keep changing things about her in LDD.

    More to the point: I think you can rest assured here in disregarding the more historically accurate wriggles with the knowledge that the Flying Dutchman is something of a "submarine" apart from a sailing vessel. Seeing how she is perfectly at home below the waves as on top of them, it stands to reason that a little water running down into the port-holes isn't going to cause a great harm. :wink:


  18. Hi just noticed this topic

    Perfectionist used a single stud prow in the Achille (see wip topic)

    p1040236s.jpg

    p1040240s.jpg

    hope it helps

    Thanks for the link. Looking through the photos it seems Perfectionist decided to stick with a 2 wide prow in the end. This is much how my sentiments have been inclining lately. :pir-sceptic: