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9 hours ago, efferman said:

I decided to make real corners.

51774271858_98b1ce0d1e_c.jpg

This is way better now actually.

No more half/studdee pins right?

Edited by SNIPE

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30 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

No more half/studdee pins right?

indeed, but not on all sides all holes.please look in the io. The advantage of this design.... it should be possible with an injection mould.

 

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17 hours ago, efferman said:

indeed, but not on all sides all holes.please look in the io. The advantage of this design.... it should be possible with an injection mould.

 

It looks fine to me :)

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I recently bought myself a cheap 3D printer, and after browsing this topic, I'm wondering: Have you ever made your files publicly available for home printing, or is Shapeways the only source for your parts? Either way is fine with me, but it might be fun to try out some of your creative parts!

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18 minutes ago, efferman said:

Uploading it to thingiverse or something else?

Well, yeah, something like that. I guess I'm wondering if you have STL files available for download somewhere. I don't have any specific parts in mind, so don't feel like you need to do anything like that, but it would be kind of nice to have the option!

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@2GodBDGlory
I've got some of my designs on thingiverse if you are interested in testing printing: https://www.thingiverse.com/saperpl/designs but note that the platform is a bit annoying as it doesn't keep all submitted things in the profile page and I got some feedback that some files can't be downloaded after some time from being uploaded. My models are made for pedantic layer height of 0.12 mm, so it's okay for a small piece, but bigger ones take really long to print.

What I would recommend doing is to grab some kind of simple CAD and draw some simple liftarms/connectors to figure out tolerances on your printer. Even if parts that Efferman designed would be downloadable from Shapeways, the same design for SLA printer will most likely not work correctly printed on FDM printer for tolerance reasons. Also note that stuff like ball connectors, the inner ball side, will break off easily with FDM print while Efferman has made some designs with those and they should be okay printed with SLA printer.

I kind of feel like it would be cool to have some kind of repository of 3d printable part designs that are lego compatible that have both files for printing and studio .part files that is somehow being organised and controlled by the community, because using thingiverse or grabcad, dropbox, gdrive etc, you're ending up with a mess, but at the same time it seems like a big undertaking to successfully deliver on.

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1 hour ago, TechnicRCRacer said:

@2GodBDGlory I was able to download STLs for a few of Efferman's parts off of Shapeways. That was a few years ago; I don't know if you can still do that.

Ok, thanks! I'll take a look.

 

1 hour ago, SaperPL said:

@2GodBDGlory
I've got some of my designs on thingiverse if you are interested in testing printing: https://www.thingiverse.com/saperpl/designs but note that the platform is a bit annoying as it doesn't keep all submitted things in the profile page and I got some feedback that some files can't be downloaded after some time from being uploaded. My models are made for pedantic layer height of 0.12 mm, so it's okay for a small piece, but bigger ones take really long to print.

What I would recommend doing is to grab some kind of simple CAD and draw some simple liftarms/connectors to figure out tolerances on your printer. Even if parts that Efferman designed would be downloadable from Shapeways, the same design for SLA printer will most likely not work correctly printed on FDM printer for tolerance reasons. Also note that stuff like ball connectors, the inner ball side, will break off easily with FDM print while Efferman has made some designs with those and they should be okay printed with SLA printer.

I kind of feel like it would be cool to have some kind of repository of 3d printable part designs that are lego compatible that have both files for printing and studio .part files that is somehow being organised and controlled by the community, because using thingiverse or grabcad, dropbox, gdrive etc, you're ending up with a mess, but at the same time it seems like a big undertaking to successfully deliver on.

Thanks for the advice! I'll take a look at your stuff. I've also been learning to model stuff with Fusion 360 for printing, like a 32T gear that improved on designs on Thingiverse, a custom 3S lithium battery box, all lengths of Pliftarms, a replacement hub for my 8070, and other non-Lego stuff. It would be very cool to have that Lego-specific 3D model website, but I guess you're right that it would take a lot of investment from someone.

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If someone asks for a specific file, i have no problem to share it. But uploading files to thingi.. pew.. i have a few hundred stl files, and nearly all of them are made for sls. I guess it is better to ask for a specific file. The rotator parts i have optimized files for pla. so simply ask for what you are interrested.

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2 hours ago, efferman said:

If someone asks for a specific file, i have no problem to share it. But uploading files to thingi.. pew.. i have a few hundred stl files, and nearly all of them are made for sls. I guess it is better to ask for a specific file. The rotator parts i have optimized files for pla. so simply ask for what you are interrested.

Ok, thanks! That makes sense. I'll let you know if there's something on particular I want to try.

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That's why I prefer LDCad over Stud.io: using flexible pieces is just so much easier and better in LDCad.

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@efferman I'd like to give some of your custom parts a try, printing them with Shapeways, as you seem to have a pretty interesting array of custom parts there. I don't have any experience with Shapeways (only made a registration and read about materials and technologies so far), so I'd have a few questions to start. Later I'd also be interested in understanding the process of part design, like shaping, material selection, tolerances, etc.

- First of all, when I select one of your parts on Shapeways, for some parts I can choose between various colors and finishes, while for others there's only one option. What does this depend on? Do you set these, or does it depend on the part (like size, details)? When there are more options, what works best for (smaller) lego parts? For example natural or processed versatile plastic? I guess processing does effect the tolerances. Which method do you use for your parts? I'd pick processed, as it should have a smoother surface, and processing small parts at home manually sounds quite cumbersome. Or do these parts require some post processing when I receive them anyway? Or can I just use them right away if I order them processed?

- About colors: I am guessing colors don't exactly come out as lego colors. Are some colors a good match to lego ones? Black, white, maybe red, yellow?

- I am guessing that when you design a part, you design it for a certain material, keeping in mind that tolerances required for that material, right? Does this work with trial and error? I mean can you calculate the required wall thicknesses for example, or do you have to try it a couple of times to get it right? I guess experience also counts after a while..

- On some of your parts, I see some connecting material. (It does not seem like support material, and as I understand SLS printing does not require support material). So what is that for? Just for packaging, i.e. not to loose small parts? Or to make the whole thing come out as one (interlocked) assembly?

- I read that with SLS printing, one can print interlocking parts as well. Does that mean that it could be possible for example to print a differential with the gears already inside? Or is the 0.5 mm clearance required for separate parts (in case of versatile plastic) not enough for that?

- I see you mostly use versatile plastic, with SLS technology, although I see MJF plastic available for some parts. What's your experience, how do they compare? Have you experimented with SLA technology and SLA Accura Extreme material? As I understand it has a nice surface finish but may be too brittle for Lego parts? Or is it too expensive / cumbersome (requires support material and post processing)? Just curious.

Thanks for the info in advance!

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6 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

I'd pick processed, as it should have a smoother surface

Yeah processed is smoother, but you will not get a really smooth finish without sanding by yourself.

 

6 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Black, white, maybe red, yellow?

Paint it by yourself. Colouring is a gamble. had a order with two parts which should be red. One was Dark red, the other one was orange.

6 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

you design it for a certain material

99.9% of the parts are designed for sls. Only the city bullbars were made for fine detail plastic. But the tolerances in SLS are a gamble on crossholes. +-0,1mm is the difference between throwing through and using a hammer. This is why i try to avoid crossholes.

6 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

I see some connecting material.

this is to reduce the costs. every single piece costs 1.50€ handling fee, but if you connecting 50 pieces with connecting pieces you pay 1.5€ instead of 75€ handling fee. It is an extreme example, but it shows the principle.

6 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

Or is the 0.5 mm clearance required for separate parts (in case of versatile plastic) not enough for that?

exactly. with enough play it would have to much slack in function.

 

6 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

MJF plastic available for some parts

I have no experience with multijetfusion or SLA. I use SLS because it is rocksolid with a minimum wallthickness.

 

6 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

I can choose between various colors and finishes, while for others there's only one option.

This is my decission. Interlocking pieces are not good for processing and colouring.

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Thanks for all the responses!

On 2/17/2022 at 7:27 PM, efferman said:

Yeah processed is smoother, but you will not get a really smooth finish without sanding by yourself.

Does it require sanding to function properly, or is it just for the looks? I imagine it needs some corrections where connections are too tight. Is that so frequently / in a lot of places? If just for functionality, does it need just a bit of sanding manually with some fine sandpaper, or is some more elaborate sanding process required (I have seen some videos about sanding which seem pretty cumbersome and time consuming).

I'd have some part specific questions about some that are in my interest:

- You have the new CV joint with sliding axle hole. What is the length of it? Is it 5L (3L sliding inside) like the new lego version in the Zetros set, or is it 1 stud shorter? I find the one in the Zetros too long, I'd be interested in a shorter one.

- From the 6L suspension arm you have processed version in every color except black (only natural and premium in black). Same for the male CV joint with 1M crossaxle. Is there a specific reason for that being available only in natural and premium in black? Which finishing did you try for these? Have you tried premium vs natural? Which works better?

Thanks!

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On 2/18/2022 at 11:55 PM, gyenesvi said:

Does it require sanding to function properly, or is it just for the looks?

Most for the look, but tight(to tight) holes are possible.

On 2/18/2022 at 11:55 PM, gyenesvi said:

What is the length of it?

they are learly the same

On 2/18/2022 at 11:55 PM, gyenesvi said:

Which works better?

the function should be the same. They only differ in the look.

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47 minutes ago, efferman said:

Not sure about the fan - this would make sense maybe for some kind of propeller boat/hovercraft model, but not for the aircraft.

As for the bucket:

  1. Did you print it already for test? Or did shapeways print this for you?
  2. If yes, how much material did you use including supports? How long does something like this cure?
  3. Can you perhaps share the model with supports and proper orientation? I still suck at my mSLA prints, but if that's a tested scenario, I'd be interested in it and maybe Eric Trax could use this kind of bucket :)

I really like the details on this bucket - if this can be printed without ton of supports then I'm really curious how it looks after curing and about rigidity of it.

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