[HELP] Drivetrain for Trial Truck

[HorcikDesigns]

Hi,

right now I am unable to build traditionally (on holiday), so I try assemblies digitally. The reason why I shouted "Help!" in the topic title is that I would ask you to test this little basic drivetrain gear assembly, whether the worm gear with the 24t wheel would do some cracky sounds (sorry, I haven't found right word), or not (when loaded - I need it for extreme trial truck). I need to reduce the speed of two buggy motors (connected to the red axle with worm gear).

So, would you mind doing me a favor, please? ;) (LDD attached)

Thank you ;)

[Zerobricks]

I suggest you NOT to use worm gears, as your truck will be slow as snail while generating mysterious white dust (dont breathe it) at the abse of the worm gear. Also I suggest you not to use diffs as they always direct powere where there is least traction.

Here are the questions for you:

1. What and how many wheels are you using

2. What suspension setup

3. Which type and how many motors are you using

[AndyCW]

In the trial trucks and crawlers I have built with 2 buggy motors, a gear ration between 5:1 and 15:1 should be sufficient depending on weight and tire size. Your "center section" has a 24:1 reduction and that is before you ever get to the reduction in the axles. Your creation will be painfully slow and inefficient due to the worm gears.

As to your question, that assembly looks like it will be fine with regards to gears popping.

v/r

Andy

[Tommy Styrvoky]

that would be very slow (6 rpm) but it would be incredibly powerful with 1 Xl probably not the best ratio, i would go with a 5:1 ratio.

[HorcikDesigns]

Thank you :D (and sorry for mistake in the title and file's name) And, Ok, I'll try to find another solution. :D

I know why is there that diff (although I also know that the torque transfering on it might go behind it's limits :D) - I use the diff (between front and rear axles) to get smaller turning radius for my next 6x6 Tatra (T815 TP). The diff will be also equipped with lock, so no worries about free-wheel rotations.

This is what I have so far - it is powerful enough (and also very fast - that's what I want to reduce) as chassis (I used there only approx. 20:1 reduction), but I do not know what it is going to do with body installed

You can see there a small pneu-cylinder (controlling the diff-lock), and, above motor (that is visible form this point of view) is the 5x7 frame, that I want to replace with the part, which is this topic about.

(my previous project, or more properly - this chassis (above in this post) is second generation of this (previous) one: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=98608#entry1960548 )

[MajklSpajkl]

I suggest you NOT to use worm gears, as your truck will be slow as snail while generating mysterious white dust (dont breathe it) at the abse of the worm gear.

I'm kinda planning to use the worm gear from geared up source in order not to get so high reduction on the end - if the worm is held by half bushes, will there still be ABS flour, or the whole worm gets grinded?

[Zerobricks]

I'm kinda planning to use the worm gear from geared up source in order not to get so high reduction on the end - if the worm is held by half bushes, will there still be ABS flour, or the whole worm gets grinded?

Depends on speed and forces involved. I once remmebred using a worm gear on an ungreared RC motor output... After time the palstric was warped due to heat created. Worm itself is hard to damage, but the bushes and supportive elements are easy to wear, especially after long use.

[MrNumbskull13]

Yes I highly suggest you don't use worm gears, even knob gears are better. Worms create way to much friction and damage parts as Zblj explained.

Edited August 19, 2014 by MrNumbskull13

[HorcikDesigns]

Ok, thank you for your help ;) (and for editing the topic title) :D