Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi,

I'm making my first MOC here, I started a few hours ago using MLCad (it's also my first time using a program to build). :classic:

I'm trying to reproduce a train from my country (Belgium), it's an automotive that I've taken for years and it seemed easy to build for a first time.

Here's what it looks like (I've taken the pics at dusk 'cause I thought about it too late, I'll get some better tomorrow):

9675975122_4595181e83.jpg9672746485_8dfa6cf654.jpg

Here's what I came up with for now:

9672744989_349b5ceed2_c.jpg

What you can see here's 8 stud wide, 7.66 high and about 38 long.

My only question for now is: You've probably already faced this problem trying to MOC a train yourself, is there a nice way to get rid of the hole/space caused by the front window on the sides ? (I hope the question is understandable) :sweet:

Thanks for reading/helpingme.

Edited by Svad
Posted

Hi Svad, there are many ways to avoid the hole beside the front window. Apart from using a sticker I think most methods will involve using different pieces for the window. Which isn't bad, because I think these windows are too small if I look at the picture of the original. You might be better off using the 2x2 flat windows. They're a bit taller and have a fully closed side.

Posted

Very nice MOC you've got there, Svad! I'm from Belgium myself, and I must say that your model is really recognizable, although it's still a WIP.

I'd make the front roof more curvy to the front of the train. Maybe you could use a part like the one used for the roof of the Lego mini VW Camper Van, but than eight wide (if that even exists...)

Also, I think the vents above the doors stick out too much. Isn't there a way to make the shorter?

And now concerning the gap you want to get rid of. I think you should keep it, instead of trying to work it away with obscure methods. On the contrary: USE the gap. Because, if you look closely, that gap is already half of a window on the side. In fact, the dimensions are more acurate than the window you have installed now.

So I'd suggest you take another one of those pieces you used for the front windows (or another wall element, if you want to close the cabin of), turn it 180 degrees and place it zgainst the other one. The two gaps combined could make a fine window.

Best of luck! I've been wanting to see our Belgian trains Legofied for quite some time now...

Posted

@Duq:

I used the 1 x 2 x 2 Flat Front (60592) you're talking about at first and it looked better but I'll probably build it in real bricks later and this piece doesn't exist in light bluish grey (I don't want to paint parts nor use another color). If, one day, they make it in light bluish grey, I'll jump on it ASAP. The sticker method is probably my best solution. Thanks. :classic:

@JopieK:

Yes, I'll probably build it in real bricks later. :classic:

@BEAVeR:

Making the roof more curvy is already on my list.

About the door vent, I already tried to lower it as much as I can and now the only way to make it better is to raise the whole roof, which I consider doing.

I understand what you mean about using the gap, I've already seen it but I'm kind of a stubborn sometimes and I want to have real windows all over the place, not holes. :sceptic:

Thank you all for the nice and constructive comments. :sweet:

Posted

Here's a quick update,

I raised the roof by one plate so that the door vent doesn't stick out too much.

I also tried to make the front roof more curvy, I did what I could. :sceptic:

I included PF: the battery box is placed vertically therefore it takes less space and leaves more room for the passenger seats.

The IR receiver is place directly to the side of the battery box and it leaves enough space for a driver seat and control panel. :sweet:

Here's what it looks like:

9681315292_587871f1f1_z.jpg9678079721_5e8ca0ea1f_z.jpg

I still have to do inside details, the wheels and whatever you call the engine thing between the wheels.

Then I have to do the other car which isn't the exact same. :grin:

Posted

@Duq:

I used the 1 x 2 x 2 Flat Front (60592) you're talking about at first and it looked better but I'll probably build it in real bricks later and this piece doesn't exist in light bluish grey (I don't want to paint parts nor use another color). If, one day, they make it in light bluish grey, I'll jump on it ASAP. The sticker method is probably my best solution. Thanks. :classic:

Yeah, I thought the same thing, it would look good, but it doesn't exist (at least not yet). Next best thing might be to go snot, with a tile on the outside, then a transparent brick, e.g., like the back windows on the cab of this locomotive,

sw1200-n04.jpg

Posted

Well I realized that the 1 x 4 x 3 train window I used doesn't exist yet in light bluish grey either so if I want to build it in real bricks later which I do, my best option is to forget light bluish grey and go for light grey. This way, I can use the 1 x 2 x 2 window I want and the 1 x 4 x 3. :classic:

Posted

1x2x2 in light grey. That would be this one then: 7026.gif

Svad, is there a reason all your posts are in a larger font then what the rest of us use?

Posted

@legoman666:

I already have a lot of those 1 x 4 x 3 actually, it's part of what's left from my old 4558 Metroliner.

About snotting, this is my first MOC and I'd like to keep it simple, maybe someday I'll try something like zephyr1934 shown. :sweet:

@Duq:

No reason, just wanted to be original, put on some colors. I would hope this doesn't tickle your OCD too much. :devil:

Posted (edited)

Cool, but is one train motor not enough, four seems a bit of an overkill.

And it saves about €100 when you use one instead of 4.

Edited by UrbanErwin
Posted

This looks excellent!

You solved the problem with the gap without using stickers, and the overall MOC looks like you've been doing this for ages. Well done!

My only (and last) remark: maybe you could add some additional minifig levers (like you used for the window whipers) at the bottom of the front section. That way, you could make some additional details for the coupling mechanisms. It looks a little bare for the moment...

Posted

@UrbanErwin & UrbanErwin:

I forgot to mention that I'll do the under details later, I didn't do it on MLCad 'cause I'm not so comfortable with it and the 4 motors was just a fast way to put wheels. My bad for not mentionning it (I did on Flickr). Btw it will have one motor (PF).

Posted

Nice design. Maybe it's just me, but if I look at the pictures I see white instead of light bluish grey or light grey, especially considering the pictures were taken in dusk.

Posted

@ronenson:

Here's a picture from www.sunudiv.com, it doesn't white to me though I'm colorblind.

CFTY%20sncb%20ligne%20695.jpg

It does to me. Where you used dark grey is light grey in the picture. It was harder to see on your first pictures, but on this one the white is even more apparent.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...