Legal vs Illegal techniques

[skylinedan]

That bushing fits just fine in the driving ring. I have one in front of me now, What it doesnt do is hold the driving ring in place if you slide it one way or the other like the ribbed one does. For a power switched set up this would,nt be a problem since the motor would hold it in place. For a manual it might not stay engaged is all. the tabs are ment to bend some, they dont bend any more than if you were to use the ribbed bushing.

Dan

[Paul Boratko]

That bushing fits just fine in the driving ring. I have one in front of me now, What it doesnt do is hold the driving ring in place if you slide it one way or the other like the ribbed one does. For a power switched set up this would,nt be a problem since the motor would hold it in place. For a manual it might not stay engaged is all. the tabs are ment to bend some, they dont bend any more than if you were to use the ribbed bushing.

Dan

It does fit and slide fine, but when you slide the new styled connector through the driving ring it does push both of the tiny clips on the driving ring outwards, and I suppose that over a period of time that it would leave a lasting effect on the driving ring clips thus leading to possible long term damage.... The older styled ribbed ones slide through and release the stress on the small clips of the driving ring when they click into and out of place...

[skylinedan]

I know what your saying, but if you look closely the tabs barely move,and that even depends on the orientation. The bushings are not uniform I noticed, one side might have a slight higher edge than another. With the new style the tabs spring out a little bit and stay, with he old one they spring in and out as they go over the ridges on the bushing. This to me is worse because your repeating the motion. Kinda like bending a clothes hanger back n forth, soon it will break. Still with the older style the movement is so small I dont see it causing a problem, I would be more worried about the wear to the tabs from the friction caused going back n forth.

Dan

[Nazgarot]

I don't call it illegal, what would anybody have against it, I doubt lego really care nor would they care of you broke or damaged one of your parts.

In fact you can use the end of a full size bush with this not just axle connectors and even other aarts.

The smooth axle connector has a tiny dot on it which catches on the selector barrel a bit which is a bit annoying.

Please read the introduction to this topic (first thread). This is not about what you or I find to be illegal or not, but about what would be approved by TLG (the Lego Group).

We have already stated that as long as a technique can damage a part, it's illegal. If it makes the parts hard to separate (to hard for a kid), it's dubious if TLG would approve it. Unusual use of part is often something TLG probably will approve. There of the sectioning in the first post. I will continue to update this as new techniques are put in question...

-ED-

[Meatman]

I don't call it illegal, what would anybody have against it, I doubt lego really care nor would they care of you broke or damaged one of your parts.

In fact you can use the end of a full size bush with this not just axle connectors and even other parts.

The smooth axle connector has a tiny dot on it which catches on the selector barrel a bit which is a bit annoying.

When Lego designs a set, their main goal is for the set to be torn down and rebuilt in various ways without any of the parts being used in a way that would damage them.

[mescalinum]

just found other unconventional uses of bricks, exploiting the tolerance of lego parts (maybe a bit OT since not strictly technic theme)

[Aanchir]

That's the argument I have heard as well.

I then always reply with the following rebuttal:

Can someone explain how, in the light of the above theory, they managed to create this hole 1,6 mm lower than that in technic beams?

---

Also I agree with the above gripe on pins on both sides of two to-connect beams, or larger constructions. And yes, I read it on some website as well. I almost didn't believe it ;) What I usually do is for all pins where it is possible, only add them after the beams are in place. However I can't remember sets doing this so often. Does someone have an example?

Good question, but keep in mind that this element is way newer than the classic Technic brick, and thus perhaps molding techniques had advanced enough by that time that thinner walls were a possibility. It should also be noted that the lower Technic hole falls between two anti-studs, unlike the 1x1 Technic brick which has it directly above the anti-stud. It's possible that TLG could relocate the Technic hole on most Technic bricks but has chosen not to because they couldn't do the same with the 1x1 Technic brick, which is a widely-used part and in fact one of the parts most frequently used for the connection such a change would be meant to "legalize".

[allanp]

That piece also has the hole between two studs, not directly on top of a stud which will give it a bit more clearence. In the example given by TLG it was a single stud brick with a single hole directly over the stud.

As for the smooth connector used for driving rings, i'm not sure if it's legal (I doubt it cos of the notch pins being bent over time) but the reason I personally don't do this is because if you are using the change over lever to hold the driving ring in place you are creating friction between the two which is not good.

[AndyC]

That piece also has the hole between two studs, not directly on top of a stud which will give it a bit more clearence. In the example given by TLG it was a single stud brick with a single hole directly over the stud.

Wasn't that also true of all the original old studded bricks though? (the 1x1 being a much later addition IIRC) I suspect, as Aanchir suggests, that modern molding techniques just allow them to deal with thinner walls and therefore put the hole in the "right" place. It's possible that they could do that with all the pieces, but it would probably introduce an even subtler incompatibility that would be even harder to spot (i.e. between "old" and "fixed" technic bricks)

[toxic_rebel]

I have a question.

I'm trying to connect 32449 (liftarm thin) with other thin pieces, because I don't have room to connect 2 thick ones above eachother. So I'm using 3 thin parts on top of eachother, with a tile on top.

I need a frame with 2 angled corners, and 32009 (liftarm thick bent) would be great, but I need one on the left and the right, so I'd need to connect them.

Does lego have an axle or pin 1L, to connect 2 liftarm thin, or do I just use 43093 & 2780, and cut off the excess part?

I don't want an entire speach about cutting parts, but lego should know 1L connectors would be handy when using thin parts, especially because they added axle holes instead of only holes, that would be easy to connect with 32002 or 89678.

I'm using a thin 5L with a 4L at 45°, so that would need a short 43093, that doesn't exist I think, because I can't find a 1L pin/axle.

Edited October 1, 2023 by toxic_rebel

[Zerobricks]

Problem with 1 stud pins I'd you might loose them inside parts like motors and such which cant be accessed from back side. Might work if they do it same style as the 3L gray smooth frictionless one that accepts a bar to pull out. 

[dustblue]

32 minutes ago, Zerobricks said:

 3L gray smooth frictionless one that accepts a bar to pull out. 

umm what kind of bar? I use pliers, and it's hard to do so I always be very careful when to decide inserting that part into one way holes

[Zerobricks]

1 hour ago, dustblue said:

umm what kind of bar? I use pliers, and it's hard to do so I always be very careful when to decide inserting that part into one way holes

3,2 mm?