Mats_o Posted October 11, 2011 Posted October 11, 2011 I have tried using a worm gear and gear racks But i cant get it as stable as I want it. There was on verion on the net but that design was to tight (to much friction on the parts). The cheat way is to do something like the the threaded version that Jennifer clark used on her white crane I would need something capable of extending 12-16 studs. Quote
backbone Posted October 11, 2011 Posted October 11, 2011 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=1172664 http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=448954 Some ideas. Look for 2-section crane boom ideas too. Quote
Milan Posted October 12, 2011 Posted October 12, 2011 (edited) The best and strongest design is this (from Erik Leppen's gallery, but Swissbager had one built long time ago, don't know who made it first): I made even smaller and equally strong actuators here: You can make the ram as long as you want in both cases shown. Edited October 12, 2011 by Milan Quote
dhc6twinotter Posted October 12, 2011 Posted October 12, 2011 The best and strongest design is this (from Erik Leppen's gallery, but Swissbager had one built long time ago, don't know who made it first): That is a good design, and I used a similar setup on my backhoe. It works well, and it is quite srong. Quote
Follows Closely Posted October 12, 2011 Posted October 12, 2011 ... I made even smaller and equally strong actuators here: ... Can you show us your design? Quote
Mats_o Posted October 12, 2011 Author Posted October 12, 2011 Can you show us your design? +1 :) They look very interesting Quote
Countdown Posted October 12, 2011 Posted October 12, 2011 +1 :) They look very interesting I second that, can't tell your design from your BS gallery Quote
timslegos Posted October 13, 2011 Posted October 13, 2011 The best and strongest design is this (from Erik Leppen's gallery, but Swissbager had one built long time ago, don't know who made it first): I made even smaller and equally strong actuators here: You can make the ram as long as you want in both cases shown. So your the genius behind the excavator?!? I loved looking at your excavator as inspiration! Please post photos of the custom LAs!! tim Quote
Milan Posted October 13, 2011 Posted October 13, 2011 So your the genius behind the excavator?!? I loved looking at your excavator as inspiration! Please post photos of the custom LAs!! tim If you mean this bigger JCB yes, i did it. There is one much smaller, but i used normal LAs there. I dont have MLCad file for this brick builtLA on this computer i am using now, will post it later, but i hope this video can help you a bit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI-o7h7Uh9o Quote
beelzibus Posted October 16, 2011 Posted October 16, 2011 If you mean this bigger JCB yes, i did it. There is one much smaller, but i used normal LAs there. I dont have MLCad file for this brick builtLA on this computer i am using now, will post it later, but i hope this video can help you a bit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kI-o7h7Uh9o I too would be very very interested in some more details on these, they look excellent. Good work. Quote
Alasdair Ryan Posted October 16, 2011 Posted October 16, 2011 Milan if you like you can send me some pics and i can make a cad file of your actuators. Quote
timslegos Posted October 16, 2011 Posted October 16, 2011 Milan if you like you can send me some pics and i can make a cad file of your actuators. yes please!!! . I am very interested in the design. tim Quote
Mats_o Posted November 3, 2011 Author Posted November 3, 2011 I have made a prototype of a smaller actuator. the main benefit is that it's only three studs wide. Is it done? nope Can it be improved Absolutly Quote
timslegos Posted November 4, 2011 Posted November 4, 2011 nice concept!! Is it strong enough to hold a significant load? tim Quote
Mats_o Posted November 4, 2011 Author Posted November 4, 2011 Since it's still a prototype it hasn't been tested in a modell yet but it feels fairly strong. It might not be the best for the heaviest loads though but since it's smaller you can always use two :) Quote
timslegos Posted November 4, 2011 Posted November 4, 2011 It looks good. i will build one as well and see how it does. tim Quote
Alasdair Ryan Posted November 4, 2011 Posted November 4, 2011 I will build one too, just for the fun of it. Quote
Mats_o Posted November 4, 2011 Author Posted November 4, 2011 One thing that remains to be resolved is to do the back end of it. How can that be done the best way? There is something for you to think about :) Quote
Alasdair Ryan Posted November 5, 2011 Posted November 5, 2011 (edited) Here is my best linear actuator concept. I have made a lxf file below so you can build it yourself Ldd did not have the small rack's i used. (if i had know that i would of used a different cad software) Edited November 5, 2011 by Alasdair Ryan Quote
timslegos Posted November 5, 2011 Posted November 5, 2011 Very nice prototype! How would you attach it to a machine though? tim Quote
Alasdair Ryan Posted November 5, 2011 Posted November 5, 2011 I think this should work ok,By using universal joints you could have the motor somewere else. *I used a 5 axle by mistake replace this with a pin with out friction on ether side. Quote
SNIPE Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 (edited) Hi, I was busy building a linear actuator that had a very sentive stroke as the teeth are very small, I used a tooshed bar from the monirail set and the winding drum that has the axle hole and teeth on the end I used the technic beam sleeve/channel and attached the tooched bar onto a technic beam then put it through thatb channel. However when I get to a certain point in buildig it lego diigital desighner CRASHES due to part incompatibiltiy. The whole model would be quite thin with a stroke of about 11 or 13 holes of the beam Edited November 7, 2011 by SNIPE Quote
Alasdair Ryan Posted November 7, 2011 Posted November 7, 2011 Hi, I was busy building a linear actuator that had a very sentive stroke as the teeth are very small, I used a tooshed bar from the monirail set and the winding drum that has the axle hole and teeth on the end I used the technic beam sleeve/channel and attached the tooched bar onto a technic beam then put it through thatb channel. However when I get to a certain point in buildig it lego diigital desighner CRASHES due to part incompatibiltiy. The whole model would be quite thin with a stroke of about 11 or 13 holes of the beam Snipe you could send me some pics and i could do a cad file for you if you want. Quote
SNIPE Posted November 27, 2011 Posted November 27, 2011 (edited) I will try to ASAP The desighn it pretty good because there is little gap-torerence inbetween the parts which makes it robust. this is down to the technic beam runner brick mainly, the gear rack strips are attached down well too as well as the tiny 30 tooth gears As we know , when the 'nuts and bolts' are not done up properly bad things happnen.. Edited November 27, 2011 by SNIPE Quote
SNIPE Posted November 27, 2011 Posted November 27, 2011 (edited) here is the pictures adn LDD file incase others want to see it, it was PM'd prior. here is the LXF file :http://www.brickshel...ar_actuator.lxf Edited November 27, 2011 by SNIPE Quote
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