Do you lubricate your Technic gear trains?

[Out of Sight]

During my experience running R/C model cars or anything which involves gear train, there's always some kind of lubrication on them. I don't see Lego stating anything about lubricating gear trains and shafts..but shouldn't there be? I also noticed that some member, like Rien on his 11.1v PF also does this.

Subject : Technic #8043

Oil : 100 Silicone oil (I used light 30wt radio control shock oil for better capillary action). Silicone is clear, so it will leave a thin unnoticable clean film on the gears and very safe for plastic.

Method : Small 5mm wide paintbrush, tiny dab of oil on certain gears,cycle the motor few times so the oil spreads to other gears. Don't over do it, you'll end up with a mess. Tiny amount should suffice and will retain the Lego 'cleanliness'. A lubricated gears will leave a slight sheen, nothing more.

Results: I can raise the boom at full extension with a rechargeable 7.2v batts slightly faster than a non lubricated gear trains on 9v fresh alkalines, so that around 20% in friction reduction! The instant high pitched spooling sound of the M motors indicates this, they're literally shouting "Hooraaayyy!" Battery life is also noticably longer.

I think all PF equipped models should be lubricated, especially on highly loaded M motors such as the #8043 set. Pardon me, maybe some of you had thought about this, but since I'm new member here, I'd like to share my 'newfound' joy in my Technic set.

Edited December 14, 2010 by Out of Sight

[Zerobricks]

I only lubbed models that run for long hourse on ehxibition. depending on the load and speed lubrication might be needed (like ungeared RC motors, wheels hubs or worm gears). But I think its too messy for Lego, because most models dont stay together for a long times.

[davidmull]

I think its a good idea,will any silcone lubricating oil work and as for oil eating plastic is very unlikely

[rien]

mine 8043 stays togeter for ever also the 8265 and 8258

[Out of Sight]

I only lubbed models that run for long hourse on ehxibition. depending on the load and speed lubrication might be needed (like ungeared RC motors, wheels hubs or worm gears). But I think its too messy for Lego, because most models dont stay together for a long times.

As I'd said in my first post, if you do it correctly, you won't have a mess at all. I'm currently observing my 8043, the only difference I can see is the gears are just slightly shinier. No drips or runs anywhere, all the bricks stay squeeky clean

I think its a good idea,will any silcone lubricating oil work and as for oil eating plastic is very unlikely

Yes as long as it's a 100% silicone oil. You can also visit your local hobby shop and ask for RC models shock oils. Find a 30wt or lower, the pores on the Lego gears' surface will make the lightweight oil spread more evenly. Some petroleum based oil can harm plastic actually..not straight away though.

mine 8043 stays togeter for ever also the 8265 and 8258

+1 to that. I've never dismantled any Lego models too..If I want to build the B model, I just get another set and build it.

Edited December 14, 2010 by Out of Sight

[Zerobricks]

As I'd said in my first post, if you do it correctly, you won't have a mess at all. I'm currently observing my 8043, the only difference I can see is the gears are just slightly shinier. No drips or runs anywhere, all the bricks stay squeeky clean

But when you take it apart you have lots of messy parts.

[Davey]

I've started using a Teflon lubricant from DuPont on my Emerald Night and my PF Hogwarts Express. I haven't done any comparisons versus lubricated and non-lubricated but anecdotally it seems to run more quiet and I see less "dust generation" after a couple hours of running. I think it makes a lot of sense to lubricate gear trains that run for long periods of time or are highly loaded (high PV rating).

On another note, I'd love to see LEGO incorporate a lubricant package into the plastic. A migratory silicone or PTFE would be easy to do.

-Davey

[DLuders]

If there is any chance that some young kid would put the PTFE- or silicone-based lubricant in their mouths, TLG would be held liable for possible poisoning lawsuits. Hence, one can use biodegradable, food-grade Extra Virgin Olive Oil as the lubricant.

[Tobbe Arnesson]

I generally don't play with my MOCs that much so I have never bothered.

The only MOC I've seen any dust in it this one: http://lotekbricks.blogspot.com/2000/09/eightlegs.html

[Davey]

If there is any chance that some young kid would put the PTFE- or silicone-based lubricant in their mouths, TLG would be held liable for possible poisoning lawsuits. Hence, one can use biodegradable, food-grade Extra Virgin Olive Oil as the lubricant.

Actually both the silicone and PTFE are approved for FDA food contact in the United States. Poisoning would not be an issue in any way. I am an engineer in the plastics industry and we sell PTFE and silicone materials into medical and food contact applications all the time.

-Davey

[davidmull]

Can automotive silicone spray oil be used the same on LAs and gears?

[rien]

Remember in the engine are 6 gears aswel who need oil!!

They are dry also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I use 2stroke castrol oil and no melting proses.

I think olive oil stinks but not sure dint try it.

[Out of Sight]

Remember in the engine are 6 gears aswel who need oil!!

They are dry also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I use 2stroke castrol oil and no melting proses.

I think olive oil stinks but not sure dint try it.

Yikeess...to think that Lego put a lot of effort adding huge amount of lube on the updated LA's for the service pack . Rien, how did you safely open the motor? Since I've lightly lubed the gears with silicone oil, I have yet to charge the batts on my 8043 it's been 2 weeks with constant 'after work midnight digging' when I'm all alone at my work desk. At least 15 minutes a day. It's amazing what lube does and how much load it takes away from the motor.

Edited December 22, 2010 by Out of Sight

[Gifti]

Hello!

Isn't it possible to spray through the holes of the front plate with Silicone spray?

So it's not necessary to disassemble the motor?!?

Lubrication with engine-oil seems to be o.k. for the first couple of days.

But a few weeks later there may occur melting of the ABS.

So I would carefully suggest any other kind of lubrication except the following

very well known (also cheap) possibilities:

- "Olive-Oil",

- "Acid-free Vaseline" or

- "100% Silicone spray".

[rien]

Isn't it possible to spray through the holes of the front plate

! do it like that i dont open them

And the oil i use is on it for week.s now and no melting!

[DLuders]

[bUMP]

On a recent post by Nicjasno on another topic, he stated that Mineral Oil will destroy plastic. He is right -- see this article about Mineral Oil's compatibility with various plastics and adhesives. Since Lego parts are basically ABS plastic, it seems that Mineral Oil has a grade of "D - Severe Effect" on ABS. I sincerely apologize to those who I may have recently given bad advice to.

There is this old LUGnet topic about "Lubricating Lego Parts". It contains hyperlinks to discussion about various lubricants' suitability for Lego parts. It seems that 100% Silicone Oil is the best for use on Lego (ABS plastic) parts.

Note that the composition of WD-40 is not good for Lego's ABS plastic either -- it contains some Mineral Oil and hydrocarbons (according to this article). Silicone Spray is not WD-40.

Perhaps the 8043 Motorized Excavator set is the one which could benefit the most from lubrication. In this

by Gifti1234, "Lubricate the Lego 8043 with Silicone-Spray for smoother movements

using a standard 100% Silicone Spray. Spray some amount of silicone into a jigger, tip the brush into it and lubricate the axles and holes where movements happens (friction bearings, gears,...).

Also lubricate the linear actuators, the motors, the cardan joints and the chain links.

Use only small amounts of silicone and apply punctual with the brush peak ... Silicone drys greaseless, odourless and transparent. Silicone doesn't affect rubber or plastics anyway!" When you are done, the 8043 should operate smoothly like this:

Edited July 22, 2012 by DLuders

[Capt. Stabbin]

Olive oil is no good. It is an organic oil and breaks down over time. It turns into a sticky film and is hard to remove. I would just stick to the 100% silicone or a mineral based lubricant. I have been using dielectric grease with no adverse reactions. It is mineral oil based.

Captstabbin

[nicjasno]

WD-40 isn't even a lubricant. It's a mineral oil based water dispersant and cleaning agent. The libricating properties are only temporary.

For lego, a silicon spray lubricant, like the one i use (from cyclo, white/orange bottle) is the cleanest and best sollution.

[rm8]

What do you think about these grease ?

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/en_3312.html?OpenDocument&land=GB&voilalang=e&voiladb=web.nsf

Meet with problem of wearing axles at liftarm's holes

Edited August 24, 2012 by rm8

[mahjqa]

In response to the original question; no.

The stuff I make should be doable for anyone who can get their hands on Lego parts. Modifications or other non-lego stuff is right out.

[rm8]

In response to the original question; no.

The stuff I make should be doable for anyone who can get their hands on Lego parts. Modifications or other non-lego stuff is right out.

Is that your answer on my question?

Is it safe to use Liqui Moly's Silicon Feef?

[hoeij]

I have lubricated a few things, but I worry about putting lubrication on axles because if you re-use

the axle for something else, then the things you put on that axle might slide off too easily.

Has anyone had that problem, or is that not something to worry about? (can I wash off the lubrication

to prevent this problem?)

I don't see much of a problem with putting lubrication on the teeth of gears, because nothing has to stick

to that.

To those who say that they never take apart any lego models, quite frankly, I don't get that. The

beauty of lego is that with the same pieces, you can make different things. I think it's pretty

neat to take apart 8043 B and then build 8043 A.

[BachAddict]

I have just built a trial crawler where one knob wheel takes the torque of two XL motors. It soon generated dust on the sliding knob surfaces and started to bind. I put a small amount of silicone grease on and it has been running smoothly since. When I take it apart I will wipe the silicone off again to stop it going all over my other pieces.

[Kierna]

I have designed a full-function power functions motorcycle (that means leaning into turns) and have every intention to lubricate its drivechain, just like I do on my real bike. Oil for steel, silicone for plastics and electronics.

[LEGO Train 12 Volts]

WD-40 isn't even a lubricant. It's a mineral oil based water dispersant and cleaning agent. The libricating properties are only temporary.

For lego, a silicon spray lubricant, like the one i use (from cyclo, white/orange bottle) is the cleanest and best sollution.

Thanks for the tip

Sometimes I use spray lubricant for my locomotives to reduce friction