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Posted (edited)

This is one truly magnificent creation. Its looks are fantastic and its performance (driving almost 8 km/h) impressive. I guess that RC-motor is very suitable for making fast Lego-vehicules. I've noticed that while making small racecars, one using an XL-motor, the other one an RC-motor. The latter one performs noticably better in accelleration and max-speed (and will be published ASAP including instructions).

Edited by Jurgen Krooshoop
Posted

One question. How do IR receivers take the massive current, the RC motors use up. Because when i tryed connecting aan RC motor to PF receiver, the reciver would crash when motor was soo loaded (like by accelerating). I really like how you combined the studdeed cab with studless chassis.

Posted (edited)

Zblj,

One IR receiver can not cope with two RC engines.

One battery (no battery box) can not cope with two RC engines.

Two batteries and 2 IR receivers on the same channel.

Look here!

Edited by Ayumi
Posted

Zblj,

One IR receiver can not cope with two RC engines.

One battery (no battery box) can not cope with two RC engines.

Two batteries and 2 IR receivers on the same channel.

Look here!

I know, but my receiver crashed by one RC motor... Anyway its smarter to use 2 battery boxes and receivers, because it drives longer :classic:

Posted

One question. How do IR receivers take the massive current, the RC motors use up. Because when i tryed connecting aan RC motor to PF receiver, the reciver would crash when motor was soo loaded (like by accelerating). I really like how you combined the studdeed cab with studless chassis.

I've noticed something similar with my racecar using an RC-motor. Sometimes, it takes about a 2 seconds for the receiver to respond, while my previous car (using an XL-motor) never had that problem. Maybe the receiver doesn't get enough power sometimes.

Posted (edited)
Sometimes, it takes about a 2 seconds for the receiver to respond

Oh, you're referring to the common occurrence of the RC motors overheating. It happens under load, when they require a current so high that the safety measures built into IR receivers cut the energy off for a few seconds. It happens with this truck too sometimes, usually when I continuously use motors for braking at high speed.

Edited by Sariel
Posted

Oh, you're referring to the common occurrence of the RC motors overheating. It happens under load, when they require a current so high that the safety measures built into IR receivers cut the energy off for a few seconds. It happens with this truck too sometimes, usually when I continuously use motors for braking at high speed.

Yes, that's propably what's happening, thanx. It usually occurs after a bit of racing.

Posted

Yes, that's propably what's happening, thanx. It usually occurs after a bit of racing.

Try adding some slight gear reduction between the motors and wheels if you can. It protects motors from being forced to rotate when they are stopped, which is the basic reason for overheating.

Posted

Try adding some slight gear reduction between the motors and wheels if you can. It protects motors from being forced to rotate when they are stopped, which is the basic reason for overheating.

It already has 2:1 gear reduction applied to the outer (slower) axlehole. And I actually don't want to add more gear-reduction, to keep the car fast and the drivetrain simple.

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