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Posted (edited)

I originally had this wall detail with a 1x1 snot column and some 1x1 bows which isn't bad.  However, I want it to match the rest of the walls (sand green, sand green, white, white, sand green).  I came up with this other design using the newish SNOT 1x1x2/3 round part and a tile.  I want the same offset as the old design, but the connection points are tricky.  Any ideas how I could anchor this?  I would like to keep it compact.

https://ibb.co/yFCYTHF1
https://ibb.co/xqCN3BFp

Edited by AaronJ
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Posted

Considering the small SNOT brick doesn't even exist in Sand Green (yet) it's probably moot. You never could build it this way for realsies. Outside that my gut feeling tells me something about using the oft forgotten half-offset "bridge" plate (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4590#T=C) and 1 x 2 plates with rounded ends instead of the rounded 1 x 1 slopes plus the U-Tile you already use for the cap and some trickery with brackets, but I'd have to experiment with actual pieces. That digital stuff is useless for figuring out such tricky scenarios.

Mylenium

Posted

Yeah I couldn't bring my LEGO collection to college, so digital is the best I've got.  I guess looking up the colors for the piece would've saved me some time.  Oh well.  The first design will be fine, too.  Yeah it definitely looks possible with some clever apparatus that I'm not thinking of.  Thanks anyway!

Posted (edited)

Math-wise, you have the "bow" pieces that are 2 plates tall offset 0.5 studs back (1.25 plates) so they should be sticking 0.75 plates out from the wall.

One thing that I think hits the right numbers is using another of the 2/3 snot bricks with a 2l bar with stop sticking in their side studs - that puts a 2 plate gap between the 2 snot bricks, so offsetting 1.25 plates inward leaves it 0.75 out.  I haven't tested it though, so I don't know that the 2l bar can insert far enough on real bricks, it might hit the back wall of the hole first.

if I had bricks on hand I might play with the 1x1 round plate with bar sticking out the side into the snot brick, I know it has a 'stop' on the bar that's gonna put the snot brick at some odd distance away as a minimum.  Might cause weird vertical spacing issues too, I don't know how high the bottom of that plate is compared to the bar.

 

A jumper with a headlight brick facing away from the wall, with a 2/3 snot brick top stud into its back antistud, should create an upward facing stud at the right distance to do the thing with 1x2 round plates.  But since it connects under the 4th layer up, I guess that one needs to be a 1x3 round plate instead (available in white, but not sand green) or use 1x1 round plates for the lower part.  Or else sink this construction into the base.

Edited by Stereo

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