gyenesvi Posted August 21 Posted August 21 Thanks, @Krxlion that looks good indeed! One question: where do you connect the configurator on the ESC? And what kind of configurator software is required on the PC for it to be accessed? Do you have experience with that? Quote
vergogneless Posted August 22 Author Posted August 22 @Krxlion Thank you so much, I’m so excited about all the new possibilities this ESC offers me @gyenesvi Thanks a lot You connect the ESC to a USB dongle (don’t forget to order it along with the ESC), which you then plug into your PC! After that, you have several options: either a configurator directly online via https://am32.ca/ , or an offline software that’s a bit more old-fashioned. @Krxlion had shared a video with me that explains the whole process really well, here it is: @Johnny1360 Thanks It’s very enjoyable to drive because it’s light and responsive. And these little VR-type tires with soft rubber give an even better feel. Quote
gyenesvi Posted August 22 Posted August 22 1 hour ago, vergogneless said: @gyenesvi Thanks a lot You connect the ESC to a USB dongle (don’t forget to order it along with the ESC), which you then plug into your PC! After that, you have several options: either a configurator directly online via https://am32.ca/ , or an offline software that’s a bit more old-fashioned. @Krxlion had shared a video with me that explains the whole process really well, here it is: Thanks for the info, he shared this video with me as well, now I understand how it works! Quote
Krzychups Posted August 22 Posted August 22 (edited) @vergogneless, good work! One note for @gyenesvi: If you want to use thicker wires, I suggest buying the AM32 ESC without cables. I haven't been able to unsolder them from my ESC. Im my opinion what you should buy is: the AM32 ESC (like this one) a small connector for connecting the ESC to the PC; a capacitor (470 µF 25 V is soldered in the ready-to-use AM32 ESC); another random ESC from which you can take cables to solder to the AM32 ESC. Edited August 22 by Krzychups Quote
keepbricking Posted August 24 Posted August 24 you can try experimenting with li-ion batteries heres what i know- they have much better energy density than lipo they are safer they are much lighter they typically have discharge rates of 10c Quote
vergogneless Posted September 9 Author Posted September 9 Hi everyone, Today I’d like to share a slightly different project, to mark my very first steps with my brand-new 3D printer, my very first one! I couldn’t resist the Bambu Lab P1S, an amazing machine thanks to its simplicity and the quality of the prints. That being said, I had been thinking for some time about making a completely flat model, meaning one that could drive on both of its sides. I needed a symmetrical body, 5 studs high, to fit between wheels of 64 mm diameter. This gives a ground clearance of 1.5 studs on each side. I first tried making a prototype entirely in Lego, but it was impossible to fit all the components within just 5 studs of height. Since I had just received my 3D printer, I thought this would be the perfect project to get some practice and start learning 3D modeling. I began designing the two main parts: the chassis as a single piece, and the motor block also as a single piece (with integrated ball bearings). Everything was modeled to Lego system dimensions. The front axle, however, is made entirely of Lego, covered with 3D-printed panels. The front axle and the motor block/rear axle are connected to the chassis with metal connectors and screws. It’s fixed at the front, but at the rear the axle can rotate laterally (using my usual elastic system). So there’s no suspension as such, but enough flexibility to handle uneven terrain. I also went with very soft tires (which act as a kind of minimal suspension). The floor and roof are removable (attached with Lego pins). The roof can be opened with a hinge to make component access easier. The electronics are the same as usual, and they fit perfectly inside (a bit like squeezing everything into a handkerchief, to be honest). Dimensions: Weight: 417 g (with battery) Length without wheels: 150 mm Length with wheels: 173 mm Width without wheels: 71 mm Width with wheels: 123 mm Height from ground to top: 50 mm The result is a sharp and reliable drive, with no risk of flipping over and damaging anything It can drift, flip, roll, and immediately keep going again! The body never touches the ground. As for the design, it’s of course quite minimal, but the finish of the surfaces really gives it an almost industrial look, as if it had just come straight out of the box. I’m already working on another model in this flat format, but this time with a kind of suspension system. I’m also considering a 4x4 version, not for crawling but for bashing — and that’s where the real challenges begin! As always, if you have any questions or feedback, they’re more than welcome! Quote
vergogneless Posted October 23 Author Posted October 23 I’m back with something new, actually, twice as much this time! I’m excited to show you my very first 4x4s at a really small scale. On one side, there’s the racing buggy, which is basically an evolution of my previous blue RWD buggy, still my best creation so far. It ran a lot this summer, dozens of battery packs, and still just as fun every time. Within exactly the same dimensions, the first big step I managed to take was moving to 4WD. The motor is placed in the center, and the whole setup includes 14 ball bearings. A bit over the top maybe, but I can say there’s absolutely no friction left that could have been removed. Aesthetically, since this was my first attempt, I decided to focus more on compactness rather than using Lego parts for the body. But that’s something I wanted to improve on the new model. Now, on the other side, there’s the off-road truck. Which is actually a major evolution of the racing buggy. It’s 3 studs shorter, has 1 stud more ground clearance, and is equipped with RC shock absorbers: At the front for a suspension of all the front axle, At the rear for an independent suspension setup. So, not only is it even more compact and better optimized, but it also handles much better. And thanks to the space saved, I was able to build a body using as many Lego parts as possible. Another special feature of this model is that it doesn’t use any metal connectors with screws, only Lego connectors (except for the suspension mounts that require M3 screws). The entire design was made with that in mind. However, it is equipped with metal wheel hubs and 2-stud-long U-joints on the axles. Only 10 ball bearings were needed in total. Another point worth mentioning is that there are no metal gears. I wanted to test that, and even without grease, the gears handle full acceleration and top speed perfectly. Considering the total weight of 500 g and the number of bearings, that’s not too surprising. The main downside of this model, as you’ve probably noticed, is the gear sticking out dangerously from the chassis, to be fixed... Next developments already in progress, still within this size range: Independent front suspension Integration of differentials Fixing that exposed gear issue under the chassis Quote
gyenesvi Posted October 24 Posted October 24 These two look really great, and are really compact! Nice design of printed components, even though there's not too much lego left in the chassis :D Quote
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