JJ2 Posted January 11, 2017 Author Posted January 11, 2017 3 hours ago, Epic Technic said: Really nice car! I've always dreamed of doing something like this but my wallet doesn't exactly agree. I just built an electric skateboard, with a 5065 275kv brushless outrunner and a custom made 36v battery, but I don't think LEGO would do very well with such power. I am thinking of using a small 3000kv brushless system in a lego car, but this is just and idea. I was wondering about your parts, how many amps you pull, how many kv your motor is and where you bought everything? Wow that is a quite high torque motor, would you mind making a video? It sounds really cool. I don't know the KV of my motor because its a brushed motor but I think a 540 brushless like @PorkyMonster used will do the job for larger scale like 1/10 scale models, but since it is larger it really limits your options if you want to build small (for me at least). I would recommend using a 380 sized brushless motor for models for anything smaller then 1/10 scale because those motors are small and have quite a kick. Amazon is where I bought my parts but I bet you can get them much cheaper on RC planet or other stores. Quote
PorkyMonster Posted January 12, 2017 Posted January 12, 2017 (edited) 2 hours ago, JJ2 said: I don't know the KV of my motor because its a brushed motor but I think a 540 brushless like @PorkyMonster used will do the job for larger scale like 1/10 scale models, but since it is larger it really limits your options if you want to build small (for me at least). Not really... The smallest model I've built using a 540 can-sized motor actually used these wheels and measured about 45 by 20 studs (which is 1:13 to 1:12 in scale). The main reasons that my recent models were huge is because, *ahem*, (1) I like big models, (2) I prefer to incorporate as many steering geometries as I can, and (3) also that I chose to use Eneloops AA cells (6 of them to make up min 7.2 to max 9 volts) rather than Lipo batteries - resulting in the need for separate batteries for servo and motor, and also doubling them for usable amount of Amp (still, only up to about 10 Amp) (total AA cells required = 20). Edited January 12, 2017 by PorkyMonster Quote
JJ2 Posted January 13, 2017 Author Posted January 13, 2017 On 1/11/2017 at 8:16 PM, PorkyMonster said: Not really... The smallest model I've built using a 540 can-sized motor actually used these wheels and measured about 45 by 20 studs (which is 1:13 to 1:12 in scale). The main reasons that my recent models were huge is because, *ahem*, (1) I like big models, (2) I prefer to incorporate as many steering geometries as I can, and (3) also that I chose to use Eneloops AA cells (6 of them to make up min 7.2 to max 9 volts) rather than Lipo batteries - resulting in the need for separate batteries for servo and motor, and also doubling them for usable amount of Amp (still, only up to about 10 Amp) (total AA cells required = 20). Ok that makes sense, why not use a Nimh battery at 7.2V, I have a 2000mah and a 5000mah, both work very well. Quote
PorkyMonster Posted January 14, 2017 Posted January 14, 2017 7 hours ago, JJ2 said: Ok that makes sense, why not use a Nimh battery at 7.2V, I have a 2000mah and a 5000mah, both work very well. They're similar - Eneloops are 2000mah Nimh batteries too (so by connecting double sets of 6 cells, I get minimum 7.2V @ 4000mah)... only difference is that I use them as individual cells, while yours are soldered into a pack. Soldered packs will have less resistance and are able to provide larger current draw at any time (at the expense of run time, though...), but that should only affect the acceleration time, not the top speed. For best acceleration and speed, we ought to consider Lipo packs . Quote
ScaleCarModels Posted January 14, 2017 Posted January 14, 2017 Nice build I always wanted to mix Lego and PC motors/electronics. This gives me inspiration and ideas on whats possible. Quote
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