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Posted

After multiple failures at creating a compact driven independent for a Chevy Suburban, I paused that project and started to make a Bowler Defender. For those who don't know, a Bowler Defender starts out as a Land Rover Defender 90 or 110, then it gets tricked out with rally spec parts and gets a full engine tune. I have tried to mimic the original chassis. This build is intended to perform well, just like the real one, so it has four L motors powering it.

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To show the similarities here is an image of the real chassis.

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I will try to update this topic every few days.

Posted

I see some efferman inspiration here :wink: Anyways I like how it resembles the original. Are you going to gear it down more it is that going to be the final gear ratio?

Posted

I see some efferman inspiration here :wink: Anyways I like how it resembles the original. Are you going to gear it down more it is that going to be the final gear ratio?

I'm not sure if I will keep the same ratio, I think right now the ratio is too low.

Posted

Little update, the chassis now has the front and rear axles. The axles have differentials as I do want it to steer and pan-hard rods.

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And of course the mandatory shot of the underside.

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Posted

I love bowlers, I'm sure it'll come out great in your hands. The performance looks promising with those 4 L-motors.

Just one comment though: the front axle seems to have low ground clearance. Any improvements you plan on that?

Posted

I love bowlers, I'm sure it'll come out great in your hands. The performance looks promising with those 4 L-motors.

Just one comment though: the front axle seems to have low ground clearance. Any improvements you plan on that?

Thank you, for the compliments erelender. I really want to figure out how to fix the front axle, I think I am going to try something like Piterx's Nissan Hardbody front axle.

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Posted (edited)

Thank you for the compliments. I have also managed to change the final gear ratio from 1:1.12 to 1.07:1. However this is not going to be the final gear ratio.

Edited by Epic Technic
Posted

Like erelender said earlier I think you should work on the front ground clearance.

On another note try triangulating 6L links by connecting them to the other sides of the pieces they are already connected to and it should help minimize side to side movement.

Posted

Like erelender said earlier I think you should work on the front ground clearance.

Yes I am designing a new front axle as we speak.

On another note try triangulating 6L links by connecting them to the other sides of the pieces they are already connected to and it should help minimize side to side movement.

I'm not too sure about what you mean.

Posted

I'm not too sure about what you mean.

What I meant to say was try putting the 6L links on the bottom connected the the 3L DBG beams on the other side of the 3L beam.

Posted

What I meant to say was try putting the 6L links on the bottom connected the the 3L DBG beams on the other side of the 3L beam.

I think this is what you mean:

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But anyways, the pan-hard rod manages to eliminate virtually all of side to side sway.

Posted

yeah thats pretty much what I meant

I just noticed the 2 u-joints are connected with a 2.5L axle because of the half brush... did you modify a axle?

Posted

I just noticed the 2 u-joints are connected with a 2.5L axle because of the half brush... did you modify a axle?

I haven't modified any axles. Yet... :grin: The axle there is just a 2L axle with half bush in the middle, but to make the connection more solid I will probably trim a three 3L axle by half a stud.

Posted

I haven't modified any axles. Yet... :grin: The axle there is just a 2L axle with half bush in the middle, but to make the connection more solid I will probably trim a three 3L axle by half a stud.

Why not cut a 5L axle in half if you have to do it anyways?

Posted

what about black with another color accents: http://www.bas4cars....wler-ready2.jpg

+1

It will look as cool as 9398

I have chosen to make it LBG with black color accents. I will try to post a picture soon.

Why not cut a 5L axle in half if you have to do it anyways?

It's very simple, I only have 34 5.5L axles, while I have 456 3L axles. So it is only logical to use 3L axles since I have way more.

Posted

I've got another way for you to eliminate the 2.5 stud axles, but it requires the use of the old 4 stud long universal joints. If you take apart 1 new and 1 old u joint, you can then make 2 3.5 stud long hybrid joints.

Posted

I've got another way for you to eliminate the 2.5 stud axles, but it requires the use of the old 4 stud long universal joints. If you take apart 1 new and 1 old u joint, you can then make 2 3.5 stud long hybrid joints.

That's actually a good idea, thanks for the tip.

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