TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 19, 2015 Posted July 19, 2015 (edited) hy i just started with a new moc, and it will be a baja truck. ( : another one? Me: Yes, i'm sorry) This will be my guideline but i think i'll get a different body work don't know yet. https://41.media.tumblr.com/0bcb8b46ab9d817442e1165be4ea83d5/tumblr_mw31eiXRQl1t0matto1_500.jpg It will feature: - RC steering (servo) - RC drive (2 L-motors) - suspention: - Front: duble whisbone - Rear: live axle I already made my rear axle DSC_0007 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0008 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0009 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr now i have to figure the front axle out. any help would be nice also is it really necessary or better to have a positive caster angle? thanks and i'll keep you updated To Jim: can i if i want still enter the contest with this moc or can't i? Edited July 19, 2015 by TheNextLegoDesinger Quote
TheItalianBrick Posted July 19, 2015 Posted July 19, 2015 You need a differential aswell, don't you agree? Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 19, 2015 Author Posted July 19, 2015 You need a differential aswell, don't you agree? nope i gote the same discussion on the lego technic facebook group. the axles are not conected i used the pin conector for strenght so the motors run seperated. motor A powers wheel A, motor B powers wheel B Quote
piterx Posted July 19, 2015 Posted July 19, 2015 still both motors will try to run at the same speed :) so yes, if you want something with a better handling you need a diff Quote
MaxSupercars Posted July 19, 2015 Posted July 19, 2015 (edited) @TheNextLegoDesigner ! You are my man ! I felt in love in Trophy Trucks... ! My favourite is from Nico71 which I built and I'm still making further modifications... Your rear axle is not bad, but I want to ask: Do you want to make a Lego implementation of the real one or you want to make your virtual Trophy truck... ? I have seen that real Trophy Trucks do not have positive caster angle... maybe I'm wrong, but the BJ Baldwins seems not to have... but they got reinforced front A arms with unusual design... Maybe you should make something different as rm8, sariel, miguev or nico71... but try to copy the real design... On your rear live axle are shocks placed to back... why it is so? Max... Edited July 19, 2015 by MaxSupercars Quote
TheItalianBrick Posted July 19, 2015 Posted July 19, 2015 still both motors will try to run at the same speed :) so yes, if you want something with a better handling you need a diff Exactly......it still works as a fixed axle. you definitely need a differential if you don't want to burn both motors! Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 19, 2015 Author Posted July 19, 2015 (edited) Exactly......it still works as a fixed axle. you definitely need a differential if you don't want to burn both motors! ok maybe i'll remake that with a diff but the reason why i didn't wanted to use a dif is my TC6 buggy almost broke the theet of the 28 thoothed (mostly used by TLG) @TheNextLegoDesigner ! You are my man ! I felt in love in Trophy Trucks... ! My favourite is from Nico71 which I built and I'm still making further modifications... Your rear axle is not bad, but I want to ask: Do you want to make a Lego implementation of the real one or you want to make your virtual Trophy truck... ? I have seen that real Trophy Trucks do not have positive caster angle... maybe I'm wrong, but the BJ Baldwins seems not to have... but they got reinforced front A arms with unusual design... Maybe you should make something different as rm8, sariel, miguev or nico71... but try to copy the real design... On your rear live axle are shocks placed to back... why it is so? Max... why? because its the easiest place to place them. and also just to have some springs to show, i think i'll move them further on in the build what do you mean??? Edited July 19, 2015 by TheNextLegoDesinger Quote
MaxSupercars Posted July 19, 2015 Posted July 19, 2015 what do you mean??? If you want to build a trophy truck based on the real one or just something that looks like trophy truck... Max... Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 19, 2015 Author Posted July 19, 2015 it is to be based on the technics of the car but it isn't to be 100% acurate. it won't be to scale or so Quote
zux Posted July 19, 2015 Posted July 19, 2015 Well, I don't think you need differential here if you are going to drive on non-hard surface. Good luck with MOC this time Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 19, 2015 Author Posted July 19, 2015 Well, I don't think you need differential here if you are going to drive on non-hard surface. Good luck with MOC this time i'll drive off-road most of the time. but also on road for some minutes Quote
AndyCW Posted July 19, 2015 Posted July 19, 2015 There is no need for a differential. Connecting individual motors to individual wheels will provide some level of limited slip differential action. Lego's 8475 and 8366 models used this layout. v/r Andy Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 19, 2015 Author Posted July 19, 2015 thanks andy that wil save me a lot of time Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 20, 2015 Author Posted July 20, 2015 as i cleaned up my chamber i didn't work that much further. yesterday i started with the fron and i'm pretty satisfied. today i rebuilded the rear with a diff like most people said now the axle is 1 stud longer. the big question is the lenght of the chassis should i go for: - 0 studs space (pic 1) - 1 stud space (pic 2) - 2 studs space (pic 3) - 3 studs space (pic 4) DSC_0005 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0006 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0007 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_0008 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr Quote
MaxSupercars Posted July 20, 2015 Posted July 20, 2015 (edited) Looks not bad. Differential is a good way... it's a trophy-rally car not crawler... :) I would say pic 1 is OK, so 0 studs space... It depends also from the design of upper body... And use the normal wheels also in the front... you don't want to make a buggy or? :) Make a front view picture and front-side view picture without front wheel to see suspension... Max... Edited July 20, 2015 by MaxSupercars Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 20, 2015 Author Posted July 20, 2015 i use the smaller tyres in the front because they are flather at contact so they dont have that high rol resistance. also it was easier to put those in the front because the big would make contact with the chassis when turned. maybe it will work when driving but i dont think. I'll post a pic of it tomorow that will make everything clear Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 20, 2015 Author Posted July 20, 2015 here is what i was talking about DSC_00011 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr in the pic above you can see that with the big tyres fully turned it rubs against the chassis below with the small tyres this isn't the case DSC_00012 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr because the big tyres make the wheel height 1.5X higher i just removed the suport, as shown below, and i will make a new one when i get allong with the chassis DSC_00013 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr Quote
MaxSupercars Posted July 21, 2015 Posted July 21, 2015 (edited) The solution is simple... put something (pin with towball etc...) in steering arm to make steering angle a little bit smaller... It's a common technique... Max... Edited July 21, 2015 by MaxSupercars Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 21, 2015 Author Posted July 21, 2015 yeah at the moment know it's alrerady impossible i now have a roling chassis and started with the bodyframe you can find pics of it here Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 31, 2015 Author Posted July 31, 2015 after a weekend rest, i restarted this beast. i ditched the bodyframe and went straight to the front. i started making de hood/bonnet and the front bumper. now i just get the feeling of how big this is getting i also mede the rear axle much stronger and added stiffer shock's. pics: DSC_00025 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_00025 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_00029 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr the grey piece is a licence plate holder DSC_00038 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_00037 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr the suspention: DSC_00032 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_00035 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr DSC_00036 by thenextlegodesinger, on Flickr Quote
MaxSupercars Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 (edited) Not bad... :) 1.) Rear shocks are not well positioned... They should be more vertical positioned and attached above chassis... 2.) I would not use portal hubs in the rear... They give more gears to the whole gear system so also more friction... The rear live axle linkeage and motors seem OK to be... Post a picture of front steering system... Max... Edited July 31, 2015 by MaxSupercars Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted July 31, 2015 Author Posted July 31, 2015 (edited) Max i would love to show you the front but it's already boxxed in a lot so if i want to get a good shot, i will have to dismantle everything. but i promise when its done i'll mqke a naked body pic so you can see it. 1)why should i move them? 2)i'll think about the hubs this evening Edited July 31, 2015 by TheNextLegoDesinger Quote
Epic Technic Posted July 31, 2015 Posted July 31, 2015 I wouldn't use hubs, they are not used in baja trucks and will only make it slower. Quote
TheNextLegoDesinger Posted August 1, 2015 Author Posted August 1, 2015 I wouldn't use hubs, they are not used in baja trucks and will only make it slower. yeah i was already working on it Quote
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