Ashi Valkoinen

Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Ashi Valkoinen

  • Birthday 05/08/88

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

605 profile views
  1. According to my experiences with long cars, a train car with length of 64 studs can be operated easily on standard track geometry. You wrote that your train ended up with 210 studs in total, which is 70 studs for each car, I suppose to have 64 studs for middle car as long as end cars shouldn't be connected to other locomotives or cars on their ends with driver cabs. I also recommend to run it with at least two train motors (PF) and with PF IR receiver V2, with V1 it will slow down or even stop on sharp curves thanks to the high current consumption of PF train motors ( motor needs less current, but won't run this train). Alltogether it is a really nice design, however I dislike the side of driver's cab - the black curved slope and the grey arch next to each other don't match the real thing, maybe with differently angled SNOT-slopes you can achieve closer match to the original train. You may also consider to drop the usage of old-fashioned black train windows - they are quite expensive and don't match the modern-looking train, consider to use trans-black panels instead.
  2. Hello everyone, CEO of Stadler and CEO of Hungarian State Railway (MÁV) signed the contract of delivering 10 brand new Stadler KISS electric motor units to Hungary in 2019, so having three LEGO Stadler FLIRT in my inventory I felt obligated to design the double-deck train of MÁV. I didn't start from zero, I have my Westbahn Stadler KISS LDD design for years by now, and I used that file to start with. The front should have been totally redesigned since the MÁV KISS trains arrive with new fronts (according to the changing TSI-standards the manufacturer redesigned it, just as by FLIRT 3 trains). Total piece count will be 9300-9400 when all details designed, however I'm still waiting for exact technical drawings about the window distribution on lower floor and toliet arrangement (there will be 5 of them and one for disabled people). The entire train. Due to its weights it will be driven (similarly to my Railjet train) with two SBricks on 1-1 battery boxes using 4 or 6 train motor in total. I left spaces for Power Function led lights for front/tail lights. Total lenght will be 3.3 metres. The hardest part during design was the new front and some details around it. The middle cars are quite easy builds, but the angled black tile in the middle of side window of driver's cab, the asymmetric blue curve on the side needed lot of work hours. I recommend everyone to "explore" the possibilities of bracket - they offer half-plate thing surface which allows you to build SNOTs in odd numbers of studs. (Some cheese slopes missing in LDD, but fit for real.) The "real" train on the graphic of Stadler:
  3. The hungarian version is not uploaded as .pdf, but an article on our train blog. Here you can read it:
  4. Thanks for feedback, if you find it useful, please share it to those LUG/TLC-members, who don't read EuroBricks! Thanks!
  5. Two weeks ago I finished an article about modern train fronts and their LEGO-interpretation in Hungarian, now I finished with translation to English so I want to share it with the community. Please note, that my English is not the best since it is not my native language, and the building techniques and part usage in this article can't cover every solution, different trains may need different ideas. I hope this article helps beginner to get started with their own designs.
  6. Some recent photos I'd like to share. However we still don't have enough 9V tracks for grand curves on our events, before opening I assembled some PF tracks for my full set of railjet train. It looks much better on tracks like this than on curves built from R40 LEGO tracks. I hope ME-models will ship with acceptable prices to Europe... Other build is redesigning my Stadler FLIRT lights once more. With the new front designed I had not enough space for all four led lights to put them next to each other, so leds for red (tail) lights got their place deeper in the front design. But this 3 studs distance from the trans red tile on the front made the tail light almost invisible from outside, so I had to figure out something. I remembered the fiber optic cables I used long years ago in a Star Trek movie based MOC, so I made a try with them. They work really excellent, so I'm sure I'll use them later in other MOCs as well, they conduct light very nicely even when the cable is curved back in 180 degrees!
  7. Maybe the are models instruction for sale online, but most design are available for free, or just ask the author of the "new build". For example, I put online almost all of my LDD-models. I don't think many people want to rebuild my 8W trains, but they can get ideas and building tricks from those models.
  8. I was thinking for a while now about changing the front design of my Stadler FLIRT EMU to capture some details better than I did it on previous front design. So here is the result of the brick-engineering I did on the train, truly said it was a really hard build to put everything into their place and keep front/tail lights as well. It is funny that I thought after testing SBrick with my red and blue Stadler FLIRT units that I'm finally done with this train, it seems I'm not, and blue and yellow-green FLIRTs are waiting for the updated front design as well. :)
  9. Both shops highlighted on official ME-Models website have only plastic tracks, no 9V ones.
  10. Same with me, I planned to order a loop of R72 and R88 to replace my curve-straight-curve build loops, but with this shipping cost (50% price of items) I simply won't do this. :(
  11. More studs I prefer.
  12. I'd like to add only one point of view to this. In Hungary (where I came from) avarage salaries in industrial jobs like working for TLC are around £350-500 a month. For a worker who is _not_ interested in collecting LEGO sets it is a better to sell and use the money he/she got for the set to pay bills (especially heating in a winter like this). Other thing I'm afraid that the prices you found on ebay are not set by those workers, but by those people, who buy these sets from the workers, often for ridiculously low prices.
  13. This topic was started with my first, not proportional LEGO Stadler FLIRT EMU more than 7 years ago. 2016 December we had our Christmas event, where my now proportional red-white FLIRT and her younger blue-white colored sister ran for 6 days coupled together without any major problems. It was a two year long story since I finished the second Stadler FLIRT to achieve this. For first both trains worked with 9V train motors, but I experienced problems powering both units' current consumption on regular LEGO 9V-system. I decided to build internal power sources into the trains to avoid changing all my wiring made for 9V-system. Since the original LEGO IR receiver unit has low effiency, both in current limit and available remote distance of IR control I decided to use SBricks and SBrick application. SBrick helps to synchronize the two trains. 9V motors were gone and had been replaced by two PF train motors put on one output of SBrick units. I used other three output of SBricks for indoor lights, and train "A" and "B" end front/tail lights (polarity-sensitive power functions leds I use as front/tail lights). However two PF train motors were enough to move the individual train (each around 3.5 kgs), they slowed down too much on curves, and when I ran them coupled, the faster second train always derailed the first slowing down in curves. To avoid the big speed difference between train in curves and train on straights I built an additional PF train motor into the each motor unit. So the two trains have 6 PF train motors together. The coupling also needed one year of exhibitions to be fixed, but now the technic-based couplers mounted on first and last bogies work well. I plan to change old-style LEGO magnets to same size neodymium magnets for better traction parameters. A video showing the FLIRTs running, not only on simple loop, but on multiple points as well. Video also shows how much speed SBrick offers, however due to the size limitation of the exhibition area I couldn't use this high speed too much.
  14. But there are many in this hobby (LEGO-trains) who desire better and more comfortable solutions than what IR train remote control can give. I'm sure Alican's train is not connected to the internet because he can do it, but it is a good platform (local network or global) to control your trains in a comfortable way. This system can be also expanded with webcams and another controls (points), and gives a new way to maintain a layout at events and running trains without getting up everytime to switch points or follow the train with the useless LEGO IR control. Also, I don't think that someone will break into his network just to make crash his trains at an event... You are right about that too many of our machines are equipped with internet and it is totaly unnecessary, but hey, we are talking about a hobby right now...
  15. I introduced the motor car and driving car for the Hungarian BVmot train a while ago, last night I designed two middle wagons as well. However most of my waggons are really easy straightforward builds, one of them needed a special solution. The original trains (only 3 of them) were produced in 1994 by Ganz-Hunslet factory, and this train is the last railway vechile fully produced in Hungary (not counting 2 200 km/h IC wagons). Unfortunately they are often waiting for replacement parts, so it is rare to see them running in real life. Hope my MOC will run in a year or so. The entire train: The entire train 2: The train has to middle wagons between motor car and driving car, they have the same lenght, but different number of windows! 1st class wagon has 10 windows, 2nd class has 11! I built in LDD the 2nd class car first, using 11 of train windows on each side, but then I had to design something placing only 10 windows. Using 10 train windows and putting randomly 1×1 brick between them (four studs were needed to be filled) was not an option, so I tried some SNOT technique on the wall. Different window number, same length: Close-up: the 9 plates height of the standard train window is divided from bottom to up: 1 plate, 3 SNOT stud (=7.5 plate in height), half plate with bracket. Motor unit, inside: English .pdf from the manufacturer, from 1994: