Ashi Valkoinen

Eurobricks Citizen
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Ashi Valkoinen

  • Birthday 05/08/88

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Gender

Recent Profile Visitors

686 profile views
  1. While I'm waiting for real bricks to arrive for my previous project MÁV BVmot EMU I grabbed my LDD and designed the newest IC (InterCity) cars of GySEV/ROeEE railway company. These wagons are not brand new - GySEV bought them from ÖBB railway company. The whole train car: The real thing (photo by GySEV/ROeEE company): Seat inside, four seats for each cabin, cabins separated by tiles hanging from roof with bracket parts: 3-wide SNOT door with SOT glass inside - 7.5 plate width built using yellow brackets: Train car's end - some SNOT inside: Three cars after each other - I need to design a locomotive for them as well. Maybe the brand new GySEV Vectron will be good for them. :)
  2. Nice layout and lots of work hours put into that, however I adore your MOC trains, they are wonderful!
  3. Panels: older design, ID 4215 newer design, ID 60581 on 60581 there is a side support to prevent accidental break of the part, since it mean thicker material from side view, in case of trans black panel it looks almost black from side view. I looked around for photos on my laptop, if I have any about the trans black part, but currently I haven't any photos like this. It is good to develop MOC only in LDD, but it happened to me more than once that something I liked in LDD I dislike in real life, and I started to order parts after the first build. In some cases some builds are not stable enough to run it for many days without cracking apart, and with my Stadler FLIRT I designed a totally renewed front after 5 years I built the first train. So there was no chance to fix it in LDD. :D I'm looking forward for the finished MOC, if they were supposed to run in Hungary, I would build this color-variation of Desiro ML:
  4. Some video shots of my trains running. Fortunately the place where our last event was held had a nice balcony, perfect for taking longer shots of my trains going around. Coupled FLIRTs (SBrick and 9V :D ), Bombardier Talent (after 3 years of moving nowhere), one loco pulling 7 of 60 stud longs coaches and my first (and I think last) freight train shown in the video.
  5. Hello, sorry for the late reply. I think your updated design is better, but it is my personal point of view. I see the pain you (and all those who build such a complex MOC, I mean curves and narrow differently colored strips) have, you have always the decision which detail you leave to go and which you keep. And still, it is a wonderful MOC, I hope we can see it for real in the future. Windows: The black window frames you use are 3 bricks high (72 LDU, LEGO Digital Unit), and 4 studs wide (80 LDU, 1 stud is 8 mm, 20 LDU, 1 brick is 9,6 mm, 24 LDU), so if you use some SNOT technique with increased window height (with only one plate, 8 LDU), you can build a window with brick-built black frame around it. It means some additional weight compared to train window parts, but availability and costs is an important factor. :) Also I just remembered that new version trans black panel (with side supports) look exactly from side view as they have black frame, since the edges has the "side support" which looks almost black compared to the whole surface of trans black panel, and the bottom and the top of the panel looks black, too, where you connect it to other bricks. I think it is worth to try how it looks on your train.
  6. According to my experiences with long cars, a train car with length of 64 studs can be operated easily on standard track geometry. You wrote that your train ended up with 210 studs in total, which is 70 studs for each car, I suppose to have 64 studs for middle car as long as end cars shouldn't be connected to other locomotives or cars on their ends with driver cabs. I also recommend to run it with at least two train motors (PF) and with PF IR receiver V2, with V1 it will slow down or even stop on sharp curves thanks to the high current consumption of PF train motors ( motor needs less current, but won't run this train). Alltogether it is a really nice design, however I dislike the side of driver's cab - the black curved slope and the grey arch next to each other don't match the real thing, maybe with differently angled SNOT-slopes you can achieve closer match to the original train. You may also consider to drop the usage of old-fashioned black train windows - they are quite expensive and don't match the modern-looking train, consider to use trans-black panels instead.
  7. Hello everyone, CEO of Stadler and CEO of Hungarian State Railway (MÁV) signed the contract of delivering 10 brand new Stadler KISS electric motor units to Hungary in 2019, so having three LEGO Stadler FLIRT in my inventory I felt obligated to design the double-deck train of MÁV. I didn't start from zero, I have my Westbahn Stadler KISS LDD design for years by now, and I used that file to start with. The front should have been totally redesigned since the MÁV KISS trains arrive with new fronts (according to the changing TSI-standards the manufacturer redesigned it, just as by FLIRT 3 trains). Total piece count will be 9300-9400 when all details designed, however I'm still waiting for exact technical drawings about the window distribution on lower floor and toliet arrangement (there will be 5 of them and one for disabled people). The entire train. Due to its weights it will be driven (similarly to my Railjet train) with two SBricks on 1-1 battery boxes using 4 or 6 train motor in total. I left spaces for Power Function led lights for front/tail lights. Total lenght will be 3.3 metres. The hardest part during design was the new front and some details around it. The middle cars are quite easy builds, but the angled black tile in the middle of side window of driver's cab, the asymmetric blue curve on the side needed lot of work hours. I recommend everyone to "explore" the possibilities of bracket - they offer half-plate thing surface which allows you to build SNOTs in odd numbers of studs. (Some cheese slopes missing in LDD, but fit for real.) The "real" train on the graphic of Stadler:
  8. The hungarian version is not uploaded as .pdf, but an article on our train blog. Here you can read it:
  9. Thanks for feedback, if you find it useful, please share it to those LUG/TLC-members, who don't read EuroBricks! Thanks!
  10. Two weeks ago I finished an article about modern train fronts and their LEGO-interpretation in Hungarian, now I finished with translation to English so I want to share it with the community. Please note, that my English is not the best since it is not my native language, and the building techniques and part usage in this article can't cover every solution, different trains may need different ideas. I hope this article helps beginner to get started with their own designs.
  11. Some recent photos I'd like to share. However we still don't have enough 9V tracks for grand curves on our events, before opening I assembled some PF tracks for my full set of railjet train. It looks much better on tracks like this than on curves built from R40 LEGO tracks. I hope ME-models will ship with acceptable prices to Europe... Other build is redesigning my Stadler FLIRT lights once more. With the new front designed I had not enough space for all four led lights to put them next to each other, so leds for red (tail) lights got their place deeper in the front design. But this 3 studs distance from the trans red tile on the front made the tail light almost invisible from outside, so I had to figure out something. I remembered the fiber optic cables I used long years ago in a Star Trek movie based MOC, so I made a try with them. They work really excellent, so I'm sure I'll use them later in other MOCs as well, they conduct light very nicely even when the cable is curved back in 180 degrees!
  12. Maybe the are models instruction for sale online, but most design are available for free, or just ask the author of the "new build". For example, I put online almost all of my LDD-models. I don't think many people want to rebuild my 8W trains, but they can get ideas and building tricks from those models.
  13. I was thinking for a while now about changing the front design of my Stadler FLIRT EMU to capture some details better than I did it on previous front design. So here is the result of the brick-engineering I did on the train, truly said it was a really hard build to put everything into their place and keep front/tail lights as well. It is funny that I thought after testing SBrick with my red and blue Stadler FLIRT units that I'm finally done with this train, it seems I'm not, and blue and yellow-green FLIRTs are waiting for the updated front design as well. :)
  14. Both shops highlighted on official ME-Models website have only plastic tracks, no 9V ones.
  15. Same with me, I planned to order a loop of R72 and R88 to replace my curve-straight-curve build loops, but with this shipping cost (50% price of items) I simply won't do this. :(