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About zephyr1934

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  1. Nice work! Powering it could be a nightmare though. Maybe if you made one axle with the PF train wheel and have that truck pivot point right above the axle you could make something work?
  2. While I usually prefer models based on real prototypes, I find your MOCs are compelling. There are a lot of great details in the locomotive. Very impressive work just with the wedge plates alone. The striping and grebbling are well done, even if there wasn't a particular prototype it certainly has the feel that there was.
  3. Excellent work! (as always) And here I thought I bought out all of the yellow tiles with studs for my earlier build. You definitely brought a lot more detail to the design, e.g., proper scale for the containers and much more realistic detailing on the ends.
  4. Wandering back to the OP, I've been thinking more about your experience and I bet the "exploding" track is due to attempting to put two outside rails in one segment and/or two inside rails on another segment. An easy mistake to make. Obviously the outside rails are longer than the inside rails, but at R104 it is only a small difference. As I mentioned in my previous post, there is a faint "I" and "O" on the underside of the rails. It would have been nice if the ME rails had a divider on at least one of the rails, right where each tie was supposed to go, but they didn't (well, I think they did for the center tie on the R88, but on the R104 there is an even number of ties so the center does not have a tie. So it is a matter of sliding the ties back and forth until you get a good alignment. I think there was a thread about how to get the spacing correct.
  5. While I found the ME rails to be testy like that, for me they would mostly stay together when left in place. I think part of the problem is that there simply is not enough clutch, so whacking with a mallet shouldn't help the problem (albeit a good way to vent). As others have said, glue is the way to go. I think your experience is a little extreme though, one thing you definitely need to check is to make sure you have the inside and outside rails in the right spot. It is a pain to find the "I" or the "O" on the underside of the rail, but if you get one reversed (as I've done) or you get two of the same on one rail, it will definitely explode. Even glue won't solve this problem. Meanwhile, I had always wondered why lego went from multi-piece 4.5v to a one piece 9v track. Then ME showed me why. Too much force from the trains on the curves will eventually pull the rail off the ties. That gal is a keeper Hobby stores are probably the best bet. If you don't have any in town search the web, particularly on-line hobby stores. I think I used MEK (I can dig up the exact name if it helps). The stuff I used you do not need a brush, it wicks in between the cracks in the bricks. But you do need an applicator bottle.
  6. Great job capturing the look and feel of the locomotive, you really nailed the era. Lots of great little details too (the "fire" in the firebox is a fantastic touch). The luggage rack in the passenger car is brilliant too.
  7. Yet another excellent MOC, both inside and out. Really good job capturing all of the details and an impressive job of wiring it all up.
  8. Wow, that looks nice and well proportioned. There are some crazy build techniques too, like the clip snot to hold in the grill tiles on top and the cab doors. Excellent job concealing the PF. I think the side windows look fine (wouldn't have noticed if you hadn't had said something).
  9. An excellent build with great details. Your title is so wrong though, there is little "Emerald Night" in this very fine MOC beyond the prototype for inspiration. Every feature I see is far superior to the EN (mind you the EN was a great set, but it is overshadowed by many MOCs like this one). Please do post a new topic about your smoke generator, that is a fascinating feature.
  10. An excellent rendition of the big boy! The R104 curves were made for engines like this. There is a lot of great detail in the build, you should definitely take some detail shots (on its own the cab looks like it has a lot going on inside).
  11. I didn't know that you could improve upon perfection, but it looks even more fantastic!
  12. Is that unit only 7 studs long? If so, I'd suggest lengthening it to be 8 studs or 1/2 half of a standard track length. Also, you should test the side clearance to make sure that a steam driver with at least a full technic beam can clear (there are some steam designs like the EN that actually require two technic beams beyond the wheel). Another thing to keep in mind is that many builders do 8 wide pilots. Sure, tricky or impossible to make something work for all possible builds that folks make, but possibly contemplate a second version if demand arises (no sense in doing so until someone actually asks for it though... and I am NOT asking with this note, just giving a few observations).
  13. I think the conventional model railroaders do think of us as real modelers, but the fact is, NMRA is at least 50% a trade organization. There is no incentive for TLC to join nor any of the nascent entrepreneurs.
  14. Excellent job, looks really sharp. I'd echo the windscreen though. Could you do: orange tile, clear 1x2 brick, clear 1x2 plate, orange 1x2 plate, clear 1x2 brick...? Potential attachment could be make the orange plates 1x3 (up or down), have one or more plates stick back in to the cab, clip snot with a 1x1 orange plate with clip, etc. The trans clear brick+plate is not as nice looking as the 1x2x2 panels but it gets the middle window in.