davidzq

Eurobricks Vassals
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About davidzq

  • Birthday 10/16/91

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  • Website URL
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidhensley/albums

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Interests
    When it comes to Lego, I build highly detailed minifig scale trucks, cars, and trains.

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  • Country
    United States
  1. What is the file name for the instructions, or have you renamed it? Could it still be in your download history on your computer or browser?
  2. I remember these very well. Swoofty's work is what made me take a fresh look at my own F59PHI, and along with a switch to seven wide, put me on the path to what it is now. It's good to see the setis alive and well, and will be takencare of!
  3. I would just use small pin connectors, with a couple extra inches of wire that can be tucked into the car. Only downside is if you use male and female connectors, the cars have to be facing the right direction, but I wouldn't see this being an issue with most trains. The connectors can be quite small. With 5 conductors, it could be about the size of a 1x1 brick.
  4. Uh oh, now I have to give you more money! It will be great to see the yard adapters available, especially if we don't have to wait for your next product expansion.
  5. I'm thinking it might be better to have only the shorter of the two straights (the 8+2.67). On the next spur (and ever 3rd there after), we could simply use two of the 10.67. And it looks like that would also remove the need for the half straight. But however it happens, this yard piece is something I'm interested in!
  6. I'm already a 9v backer. If this were PF only, I would still back, but I'm really only interested in 9v.
  7. As far as keeping the wheels from popping off, I used the older 9V era bogie sets, which have the metal axle running THROUGH the wheel. It takes a surprisingly large amount of force to get the wheels on/off the axle. You do have the metal point sticking out, but it's the same as the plastic point on the RC era wheels.
  8. I am very surprised at how well that ballast worked out (even if there is a piece missing in the top left!). Well done!
  9. I love seeing brick-built decals, stickers are way over-rated. As far as switching from M to L motors, they have about the same speed. I wasn't pleased with the speed of my Cascades with L's and the same gear ratio as yours, but it is a pretty good speed for exhibitions (Slow enough to see details, but not too slow.) especially for freight.
  10. I use only official Lego 3mm hose, but I will cut it to any length. It is generally considered to be a purist technique, but there is some debate on the subject. Some people think it purist only if cut at a 90° angle, or cut only to an exact stud length. Ultimately it's up to you to draw the line. My personal view is to avoid cutting the tube lengthwise as much as possible (angled cuts are fine, just don't cut it in half), though I have done it myself on occasion. Finding it in bulk on Bricklink isn't that bad, there's plenty of sellers. The only difficult colors are white and tan. It's even appeared on LUGBulk.
  11. I think I'll skip the realism of the weekly landslide on my layout! Also, even in nice colors, the P42 is still far too ugly! I based the F59 off scale drawings and actual photos, and as far as I can tell,the hump is right. But I didn't really take any photos at a proper angle to examine it.
  12. I wasn't aware of the order for the chargers, thanks for sharing! If they get the paint right, it could look alright, but the F59PHIs have just the right amount of streamlining to blend in with the paint and fins perfectly. Although it's very rare that I see the F59s these days, always in the shop, and the P42s look terrible pulling the talgo. In terms of extra work though, I've already passed on the three talgos Oregon DOT bought, they chose the ugliest control car offered. I'm not expecting much out of these chargers, but we'll see. I also would have passed on the NPCU, but the train is so heavy, it needs the second locomotive, and it is also needed to keep the fin car's wheels aligned. The train is in fact reddish brown (aside from a few parts which aren't available), but it's always hard to get decent photos. No room to set up the train (And forget about running it at home!).
  13. When the master himself compliments your work.... If I had never come across your rendition on Brickshelf all those years ago, none of this would have ever happened. Especially if you never proved functional Talgo were possible in Lego in the first place! So thank you for the compliments, and for the years of inspiration and problem solving.
  14. The axle will fit into 3mm rigid hose, which in turn fits into the technic pins (3mm hose is the same diameter as the standard bars). The hose can be cut to any length needed (Required in official lego sets, so considered "purist" by most).
  15. I love that freight house! I wonder how functional that design was.....Judging by the box cars blocking the entrance, not very. If ever I did some form of layout (never will), I'd definitely have something inspired by that.