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About knotian

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  1. I'd like to post some of my work but am not sure where. I use a mix of technic beams, technic bricks, technic other parts,normal bricks, EV3 and some third party EV3 related hardware/software. (Hodgepodge) My mocs are industrial in nature. Currently working on a blast furnace complex. Where is the best place to show wip's. I'm thinking "Lego Technic, Mindstorms & Model Team" would be the best fit, but want to check before incurring the wrath of the site Thanx, Ed
  2. Drawing cylinders in seems to be easier than in other software due to the ease of using their hinge tool and how it interacts with connected pieces. The attached folder has some basic instructions and a straight wall ready to turn into a cylinder, a completed example and one of my modified cylinders. Included is a pdf with a table of angles necessary to use in the hinge settings to get a perfect circle of varying diameters.
  3. David, Thank you a lot! I'll give it a try. Ed
  4. I have built a model of a blast furnace. No problems in either or LPub3D. How-sum-ever-- The instructions are very repetitive since I am using the 1x2 brick plus 1 round brick method for making the circular structure. So I end up with several thousand parts. If I set up a step for each level in the circle ( 48 bricks) then the step has to repeat for 15 layers. Then the next segment, with 4 less bricks, 15 layers, etc, etc. There is a total of 52 layers, in 5 segments. The instructions will be fine --- but I feel sorry for anyone that has to follow them. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can make the instructions more usable?
  5. Finally, after lurking for months, had something to post. I'm just emerging from the 'Dark Ages' and this is my first sharable effort. Needed a hot metal car for my Blast Furnace. The first link is a picture of the actual car ( with the camera tilted), the second is a rendering from and the third is the file itself. The car does dump as you can see if you look at it's construction. Ed Ladle Car %232.jpg Ladle Car
  6. rodiziorobs I ended up doing cylinders of 24,22,20,18 and 16 units ( 1 unit is a 1x2 and a 1 round). I discarded the use of the odd numbered cylinders as the bracing was to shaky. Not as smooth, but it will do. I may try again to make a better show version with single unit reductions. The bottom is 12 bricks high and the others are 10. I built them all 12 but it was too high for the scale of the rest of the display. The result was that I could brace the cylinder with side by side technic bricks and they would replace one of the 1x2's in the wall and therefore invisible. I used 2x2's in the middle between the braces to make it rigid. The bracing on the 22 and 18 cylinders required 2x2 plates and turntables to get them aligned in the center.You suggestion of the tiles was a great idea. I substituted 2 x 2 plates for the tiles where I wanted to join the sections. There is a little 'squishing' of each of the cylinders, maybe 1/3 stud or so, to allow the fit. It is not visible from display distance. The photo attached is vertical, the photographer is tipsy ( I meant tipped) knotian
  7. AlmightyArien, That is a fantastic use of the computers. I have been trying to automate trains using the PF AlmightyArien, That is a fantastic use of the computers. I've been playing with automating train functions using the EV3 with the newer PF trains. I used a ir link by hitechnic and it worked but the ir is line of sight and very short range. I basically dropped the effort. I'm waiting for this summer. S-Brick has said that they will have language support this summer as well as interface with the EV3 motors and sensors. Bluetooth control from a pc using sensors and train control could lead to some fun things.
  8. Shameless Plug If anyone is looking for a good tool for designing projects, you need to try out This is being developed by BrickLink and is tied to their catalog rather than LDraw. Still in beta but, aside from great tools and interface, it has the easiest way of curving walls that I have found. It's rotational tool works only on bricks that are 'connected in the direction of rotation so you can take a straight wall and bend it to any diameter you need. I made a spreadsheet of all the rotation angles for walls, and it makes it a snap job. Ed
  9. rodiziorobs Thank you very much. The reduction with multiple levels is great. As far as reinforcing, I am using technic beams on edge anchored to a central shaft. The round end of the beam replaces one of the round bricks and preserves the design. Tiling the top level of each section is a good idea and really helps the look. Ed
  10. I'm doing several round towers for an industrial MOC. I'm using the semi-traditional 1x2 + round method. My question is- Has anyone seen or done a tower that had a taper to it? In other words was smaller at the top. I want to do a blast furnace and they typically have a tapered profile. My solution so far is to have several levels that will have plates across and decreasing the diameter at each level. The plates and associated railings are visible on many photographs of existing furnaces, so I don't think the 'steps' in the towers diameter will be too noticeable. I'm just looking for alternatives. Ed
  11. AVCampos; I know that but you still have to have power to run. Having pickups from the powered rails to the pf motor would allow not having to build a battery into the train.
  12. As a late starter with trains I am using the pf motors in MOCs. Most of the club has 9 volt track. If there was a set of 9 volt wheels in a block with a pf connector on top. With that pf trains could run on powered tracks. Ed
  13. Amazing! Will you have plans available? Ed
  14. Sorry- I need to be specific. I guess since I posted it in the Technic Lego site, that certain things would be assumed. I want to 3D print Lego parts and I want the best filament to use that results in a part that is as close as possible, in strength, to the plastic used in Lego. One that would allow the best clutch characteristics. VOC's during the printing process do not bother me. These will not be played with by children. Smell while printing is not critical, but being rank after printing should be avoided. I would like it to be commercially available, not an R&D specialist product. I will be printing slightly modified, or original Technic Parts.
  15. There are several different types of filament available. Has anyone had experience enough to recommend the best filament? Thanx, Ed