ALCO

Eurobricks Citizen
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About ALCO

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  • Website URL
    http://www.bricklink.com/store/home.page?p=BandC#/terms

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Where ever my pants are...
  • Interests
    Trains, Realistic train MOC's, railroad landscapes

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296 profile views
  1. Nice build! I think it is very interesting how you have both a 9v motor in the tender and another motor in the locomotive. How did you figure out how to match the speeds of both motors so one is not pulling and the other is not dragging?
  2. For me, the fun part is building them with Lego! Most of the locomotives I have built are only in LDD though. I do have plans to build more of them but that is down the road at this point.
  3. Now that is a great solution for power! I just might have to play with that... And look into the IR emitters and receivers I found on Amazon coupled with an Arduino board on each car.
  4. Building steamers are probably some of the most challenging MOC trains to build. Wheel arrangement all depends on what you are building and what you feel works best for you and what your skill is. In my experience, I started with the Emerald Night. I learned a lot about building steamers with that set. If you don't have one you can download the instructions and build it in LDD because it is really expensive. After building the EN I built a 4-4-0 American. Pretty simple but I found it was helpful to start small before going on to something bigger. As for what parts to use, well, whatever works and looks good. I find it to be fun and challenging to find creative ways to use different parts. For example, the dynamo on my Big Boy has a barbell part in it, I use minifig hands in the hands rails, battle droid arms for step rungs....the list goes on. Also, I build everything in LDD first that way I can play with all sorts of different parts to see how they work. Hope that helps.
  5. Wow! That is cool!
  6. I have been thinking about this for a while... While I have not come up with any solutions for providing power, I have been devising a solution for the data side of this topic using these infrared components. An emitter on the right side of both ends of a car and a receiver on the left side of both ends of a car. That way when you have cars coupled together the emitters and receivers of the two cars are lined up. My evil plan to save the world included using Arduinos (sp?) In each car so that each car has a unique ID. That way you could know exactly which car is in your manifest and in what position. You would also be able to operate unique features that are on each car. This is really delving into the theory of my scheme. However we com back to the Power issue unless you pack batteries on each car but that would greatly increase the weight. Boy, if someone could figure out the Power issue... That would be amazing! I cannot seem to be able to paste a link to the IR components on Amazon but the emitters are 5mm and the receivers are 3mm so they would work great with Lego!
  7. Very nice! That is really cool and well done! Not sure if this qualifies for an inglenook but it's nice and small and compact!
  8. In December? I will go, but I don't know if I will display anything yet. Most likely not because it's so close to the holidays.
  9. Thank you! I should have some this summer. Thank you sir! I'm quite pleased how the lights turned out as well! You are correct! 2 XL motors. See you around!
  10. I have been wondering this for a long time as well! Thank you!!
  11. Based on the PF stuff you have... You have everything you need! If you plan on taking the IR Receiver and battery box from the blue diesel locomotive you can use the M motor but it may not be very strong. The official Lego instructions indicate an XL motor, and I have used an L motor. The XL has the most torque. If you use your M motor, it will not be secured by the negative stud plate on the bottom...it will be secured by the technic pins next to the axle. To sum up, you have everything you need. But the M motor is not very strong and after some testing you may find you will want to upgrade it. As for the running, the guide to upgrade the running gear is worth it. While the official Lego design works...it does not work very well and the upgrade makes it run smoother. *I am assuming you also have the PF controller that comes with 60052
  12. It looks like the sleepers on the side of the the track opposite the throw does not have any studs... That might be a bit of a problem to those who are interested in ballasting these into their layouts.
  13. I feel the same way. Standard Lego brand or BrickTrax. Coaster, I like how your rails look like the standard Lego rails too. ME rails looks too much like the old 12v era rails yet, with the new connectors. Weird.
  14. I designed this for R40's. However, it still needs some adjustments. Once I can get those done, I will post a video of it going through the standard Lego curves. I am open to that...and have some of my other locomotives for sale on Bricklink. This Big Boy uses quite a few rare parts/colors so I am more reluctant to share because of the cost associated with that. I will also have to update my file with the above mentioned adjustments.
  15. Thanks Pirzy! Thanks for so delicately pointing out the she still needs a wee bit of adjusting! :-D but seriously, the video is awesome! Thank you so much for posting this! I designed this to run on R40 standard Lego curved track. However, it still needs a little adjusting. I will have to move the tender back by half a stud and the front wheel forward half a stud too. I thought I would see if only putting traction tyres on one side so that it does not slow down in the curves but I think it will be better to have tyres on both sides now. Other than that... Once I get settled in to my new place I should be able to take some proper photos.