Ludo

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Ludo

  • Birthday 10/22/58

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Harelbeke
  • Interests
    Trains & City

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  • Country
    Belgium

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  1. @Barduck I see also the problem as M_slug357 says: it's not friendly to longer engines, and specially not to steames with the close positioned driver wheels. They can float over the track, losing most or all of their traction power and spin. Best way to get a 'nearly flat' display table is to put beer felt (Nederlands = Biervilt) under the table legs to equalise the table top. Explaination of 'Beervilt' : is a - standard - 94mm by 94mm light carton from abouth 3 mm thick thats been placed under a beerglass. See here for a picture to see what i mean. Or use small wooden gussets (Nederlands = houten spie). Personally, I would never use such track piece. The story change a lot when you want to get an inclined track to aproach a bridge. Then you need a track that goes gradually up, as mentioned in an earlier post in this tread. We've done it with 2 plates / straight track piece with standard LEGO trains, and even then you need a huge room. Additional problem then is that the train slows down while running uphill, but gain a lot of speed when running downhill. Precautions need to be taken!
  2. Hi all, If i look to the right bottom picture, I have the idea that you will end up with a bumpy track, and no smooth increase of height if several placed one after the other. Or is it an optical illusion?
  3. Hi Cale & Coaster, Thanks for this update from someone who could see them from close by. I guess you where thrilled to get them in your hands. Very glad tho hear that there's almost no warpage on the samples, and hope, when going into production that it stay so. I'm far from a specialist in plastics, but i visited years ago , when i was still a hardware engineer for the company, a plant where they did mold injection, like the plastic 3 1/2 floppy casing and the front & rear car bumper for Volvo & Opel. When the mold for the floppy casing opened too fast (plastification time too short), the plastic was still to hot and deformed (warpage!). The timing to mold plastic pieces need to be precise, not to fast or the pieces are worthless = higher cost, and not to long or the production number decrease = higher cost, and perhaps this was also the case of the warped LEGO track. Increasing production number by decreasing the plastification time? It's risky. Quality should be on top of the list, but i'm sure that Coaster wil keep a close eye on this issue, isn't it? Anyhow, it's in his interest. Bad quality = low or no sales = Financial hangover. I'm looking forward to the release of the 9V track & 9V points! @coaster when you go into production, did you look already for a distribution point in Europe? Best regards, Ludo
  4. Hi Coaster, Great track pieces! They look very promissing. Besides the missing "BT" on the studs, how is the overall quality? Like connection strength, mechanical clutch on plates/bricks? I hope that the "minor" adjustments won't cost a lot, now that you have already one working mold.
  5. Great to see this progress. :) PF track i suppose. question: what are the long 'trenches' for between the two tracks? I wish you a lot of succes and hope that the 9V will be up and running in the near future. best regards, Ludo
  6. I think the same. Have a few straights with broken connecting ends. Can be re-used at the end of a side track with a buffer over it. Allways found the connection points the weakest point of the 9V / RC track. If disassembling track after a show is done incautious, you can end up with a broken or bend connection point. Glad to read that the majority like the angled guards. .
  7. @3797 Regarding your remark, it's true. The goal of having a (long enough) angled guard rail 'entry' is to prevent that wheels /wheel flanges hit the guard rail, and guide the flanges towards the rail. The guard rail acts like a funnel. If you take a close look to a LEGO point, you'll see also a short piece of the guard rail that isn't supported at both ends. They don't even have a side support to prevent the guard rail to break down . see picture:
  8. Hi 3797,Cale,Coaster & M-slug357. Thanks for the additional information & the great CAD renderings. I can only agree with M-slug357 regarding the angled guard rails. They look great. I say YAY to the change. I guess that the angled guard rails are molded together with the sleepers with the exeption of the far end angled guard rails on the deviating track. And as already written, not everyone will ballast the track, but on the difficult locations to ballast, if you want to do it, there will be always a solution.Cutting & gluing are among those solutions, but only if nessesarry. I know Coaster, i'm a heretic
  9. @Coaster, Still an other question. I'll see on the picture posted from Cale (PennLUG's train layout at Philly Brick Fest) that changing direction is done with a rotating mechanism, which is different from the LEGO points. I guess (hope) that the hole from this rotating mechanism goes straight trough the bottom plate, making it possible to use an electric driven mechanism under the table, like a motor, servo motor or something else. I can't see it on the posted pictures.
  10. Hi Coaster, Thanks for seeing the angled guard rails as innocent, great. Looking forward to a CAD sample. Also a thank you for the tip to remove the tubes (posts) on the underside of the tile. In this case, we don't even need hollow studs, isn't it? And the remark from Carbon60 could be solved this way. Perhaps not everyone will ballast his track, and solves their problem too (no open studs). You can't please everyone. There will be always pro's & cons. As we say, a medal will always have 2 sides, and some will always like one side more than the other one.
  11. Hi Coaster, Thanks for the fast reply, and willing to take a look for the guard rails! Concerning the lookalike as the points from TLC, I'll agree with David Hensley to have a more realistic point. Anyhow, your track is LEGO(R) COMPATIBLE, not made by TLC. What I mean is that you have no obligation to make them lookalike to the LEGO(R) points. It's your idea, and the community give you some - valuable - input, and I think that this is the way to do it. As written in previous message, it's better to prevent problems than to cure them afterwards. If those proposals (guide rail & frog guide rail) where not necessary in real life, them I'm convinced that the points would look completely different. They are added for some reason. Regarding the question from David Hensley to add hollow studs to place a 1x3 tile as ballast: What if you can add a 1x3 tile where both ends are cut away , so making the tile a bit shorter, but still centered over the hollow studs? The 1x3 tile ends are so close to the rail guards that no one would notice it. I know, it's cheating, but could be a possibility to add the ballast as realistic as possible, without a significant gap. I don't mind to cut bricks to make a model or building as realistic as possible, did it before. And for the little few tiles that need to be cut, I think that no one would hesitate to do it if it adds to realism. Don't shoot me abouth the idea of cutting a few tiles, it's just an idea that I like. Note: TLC = The LEGO Company
  12. @M_slug357, thanks for this verry fast reply. I agree with you that including more angled rail guards adds to realism. Now is the time to do it. Also great to read that there are no problems with 2-6-2 & 2-8-2 engines passing this point. I was a bit concerned because the LEGO points are no ideal ( nor realistic) design. Prevention is always better than curing, isn't it? I have not many steamers to run with, and most of the time, i'll keep them on sideways as a static model. I'm building a Type 29 (see: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NMBS/SNCB_Type_29 [English]) and would like them to run smoothly in curves and points. The driver wheels don't have the same spacing. The distance between the first 3 is identical, but is larger between the 3-th & 4-th. See pictures below. Still need the driver rods and upload some pictures on Brickshelf. Anyhow, this one can't run on R40 curves, nor pass a point on the deviation track.
  13. Hi Coaster, I'm taking a look at the point and was wondering why the guard rail on the straight track doesn't have the same 'angled entry' as the guard rail on the deviating track. Shouldn't this also be the same angle (15 degree), or what you using? Better to get this also right before molds are made. The 'almost' 90° angle on the LEGO rail guard give sometimes a 'problem' because the wheel flange hits the rail guard entry. While using a rail guard entry for both rail guards (straight & deviating) like the one for the deviating track (15 degree?) will force the wheel flange to go gently against the track. I'm also thinking on steamers with a single front axle like a 2 - 6 - 2 Those are realy sensible to hit the rail guard, because there's no second axle on the leading 'bogie' to keep the wheels lining up, like the Emerald. I hope you understand my explanation, English is'n my native language, you see. See also the second picture of a Fleishman point, where you can see that the rail guards have on every end the same angled 'entry' to force the wheel flange smooth to the rail.
  14. Thanks Coaster to clarify this issue. I wish everyone a lot of succes, and prefer molded track (9V ), larger radius but also the larger points like your prototype. Like it a lot. Don't forget the European market too. Import from out of Europe is expensive (import taxes, VAT + administration cost + shipping), molding in Europe & USA could be a solution for this issue. With too high import tax on an expensive item, the interested European AFOL's in those tracks will be much less than at an afordable / reasonable price. Something to keep in mind, especially in this niche market. Being an old bloke (58 years ) i think that those great ideas will come a bit late for me. Ludo
  15. Hi Lowa, I'm losing track at the moment. again someone starting with custom LEGO compatible train track & switches. we have now: ME Models Bricktrax 4DBRIX did i forget someone else? why don't you all join forces to create one single product? We all know that molds are verry expensive, creating everytime similar molds (straight track & R56,R72, ...) is in my opinion a waste of money that could be better used. Just my remark. correct me if i'm wrong. Ludo