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About ScottishDave

  1. Well, I dunno how mortesv did it (and he's entitled to be coy since he's selling us the instructions) but I did find a much simpler way. Here's how it looks: Lots of 2-stud wide plates - any size will do, but the longer the better: some technic beams, and 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 brackets (all the same orientation). The only "trick" was to put some of the brackets right under the docking port connectors, for added firmness. And yeah, it was pretty strong. I swung the engines around by the spine as well. Didn't think of the Mjolnir joke though - good one! :-).
  2. Thanks for the kind words. Thank you especially @EKae for taking the time and trouble to reverse-engineer this model - I really appreciate it.
  3. Thanks bricksmarlin. I forgot to mention - I used your photos of the escape pod section to build my own. Thank you for that - it was very helpful!
  4. I've just finished my build of this model, barring a few parts (levers, technic half-pins and robot arms, all in white) which are coming from Poland, hopefully sometime this month. It cost about £150 for the white parts, minus some from my collection, and a few key grey pieces. I think I bought about half the model. I didn't use the internals from EKae's build, so I can't comment on those, and I corrected some issues as I went along (starting with the one that ecmo47 flagged up a few posts ago). I built some landing gear. The Rebels Concept Art for the Tantive IV showed the landing gear positions. I decided to move the gear under the engines to a more solid point. Here is a shot showing the landing gear - the stack of round bricks in the middle is the "passenger lift". Here is the model beside my heavily modified UCS Falcon, for size comparison. The mini falcon is to scale with the Tantive IV.
  5. Thank you bricksmarlin, that's good to know. I see from your pictures that you used the shorter part, and it looks good. Thank you also for the breakdown of the sides of the model: very helpful. My bricks have all arrived, except for the white robot arms and levers from Poland, so I should be able to start building this weekend.
  6. I'm very happy to do so :-). I wouldn't bother with the 3941 (round bricks): as Mortesv said, they aren't necessary. The 4275/6 (old style flat hinges) show a little bit on the LXF (as you can see if you look closely) so ideally should be in white or grey if you insist on using them: but I think that the panels they attach are incorrectly positioned (should be closer to the center line) and I personally plan to do something else. What? I don't know yet. "I'll think of something." Each to their own! I probably won't get around to building the rest of the fleet this year, so in the meantime I'm opting for a slightly more "grounded" display. I think I see what you mean about maybe needing an extra foot or two - it might be a little nose heavy. We'll see.
  7. Thank you Mortesv for this incredible design, and to EKae for taking the time to reverse-engineer it. I've just placed bricklink orders for this build. I plan to buy Mortesv's instructions when they become available, but I couldn't wait. I did not buy any of the transparent parts for the stand. I will probably display it with landing gear down. The Star Wars Rebels Wiki page has some nice clear concept art of the Tantive IV's landing gear deployed: I also did not buy any of the parts for EKae's internal framework. I can design my own, and make sure it is strong and light enough. The total came to about £150 over 9 orders (but I sourced some of the parts from my own collection). For anyone in the UK wondering which parts are likely to be expensive: Large white plates - for some reason, all the plates larger than 4x4 were expensive and rare. I decided to use smaller plates to make up the needed sizes. 3x3 double slopes - thankfully, you only need 4, but only a few shops have them and they are pretty expensive for a single piece. I worked them into my orders anyway. 1 x 4 x 5 half-cylinders. 22 required for the engines and barely any available. I substituted the older 1 x 4 x 4 cylinders and an extra 4x4 round white brick for each engine. White levers - ONE shop in the UK has sufficient quantities, at £1 each. Ouch. White Technic half-pins. There are 6 for sale in the UK, at quantities of one each. White Robot arms - also very, very rare. I ordered these fiddly parts from a shop in Poland, and I expect to wait weeks for them to arrive.
  8. I'd like to second, third and fourth the other replies. I have seen a lot of Lego Falcons in my time. This one has enornous potential. I love the way that you've actally made it a proper dome, not a bunch of straight panels. Do keep it up, please - I'd love to see where this one is going, and you've "proved" the concept. Also, since you are working in CAD to get it just right, you might find this site interesting, and particuarly these plans of the Falcon.
  9. Hey Jemakrol, it's always good to see someone else embarking on this insane project. Building it "straight" is boring. I like what you did with the Y-Wing. In that spirit I'd like to suggest you take a look at my Falcon engine mod - my thread is here (and linked in my signature). The modified engines look insanely cool, are more accurate than the original, and cost a fraction of the price of two LBG boat riggings. The rest of my mods are probably more expensive than the originals: but one suggestion I do have is to actively seek out old, chewed-up, yellowed and grotty "old grey" plates for the hull. Mixed with the modern plates they look great, and add depth and character to the model. Good luck with your build - I shall be keeping an eye on this thread.
  10. Excellent, glad to hear it. BTW I just noticed that someone posted on Reddit about a printing error in the instructions: " in step 9 of page 74 of book one it tells you to attach a 1x3 plate in the lower left, it should actually be a 1x1 plate. In later steps the instructions show it as having the correct 1x1 plate instead of the 1x3 plate on page 83." So watch out for that. The Parts List was generated from the LXF file, and is (or should be!) correct.
  11. Looks like I had them stored in my Dropbox Public Folder, which was just fine until Dropbox decided to stop the use of Public Folders! Luckily directly linking the files still works. Just to be sure, here are all the files you might need: PDF Instructions 1 PDF Instructions 2 LXF file Parts List Have fun building it.
  12. Hi Louis, welcome to Eurobricks! Your question makes a great first post, and I share your enthusiasm for this classic Star Wars Ship. As Krisandkris12 mentioned, I have been nuts enough to build one of these things, so I shall try to answer your question. More information is available on the thread on my Falcon model. My Falcon started life as a clone of the 10179 UCS Millennium Falcon, built with parts from other sets or bought off the internet (all genuine lego, no clone bricks). Back in 2010 I think it cost me £260. These days it may well be more expensive. I'm not the only one who has done this: search this forum for "Bricklinked UCS Falcon" for lots and lots of guidance and tips. If you do bricklink a UCS Falcon, you wil end up with model measuring 88 cm/32 inches long, which is easily minifig scale (1:40 if I recall correctly). The two downside of the stock, basic, run-of-the-mill UCS Falcon are: firstly, that it has no interior to speak of, and secondly, in common with many official models it is not quite as accurate as one would prefer. I therefore rebuilt my model totally, added an interior and modified the outer hull to better match the "real" Falcon. If you like my exterior changes, I have just added an LXF file for most of those bits to my thread (see link above or click on the Falcon in my signature). I don't plan to put the interior and framework into LXF any time soon. Sorry, but I don't get time to do much Lego these days! If you want to take the LXF I just posted as a starting point and add your own framework & interior using the UCS model as a guide - feel free. All the parts I posted are "compatible" with the UCS Falcon, with a bit of work!
  13. I'm very glad to see the best part of the design still being used. For the record: you are forgiven for that part at least. Hey, I put it out for free in the first place, so I'm not about to turn around and get shirty now! Seriously - well done. Copying something accurately, and making improvements on it, is a skill in itself. One note - my own Falcon, built with "stressed brick" engines, is a few years old now, and the engine bricks don't appear to have cracked - so I reckon that you could have gotten away with it. The brass rods definitely look cool, however.
  14. Wow. I've seen the work-in-progress pics on your flickr stream, and I knew it was going to be good, but this is even better than I thought it would be. It looks really, really accurate. I love the balance of studs to studless, and I like how the wings are built - just like the UCS Imperial Shuttle. Your WIP pictures showed some interior - is that still in the model? Is it accessible?