DarioD

https://youtu.be/HN0NZXKq95c

Great, I love DIY solutions, especially when they are very discreet and clean, like yours. :-)

Mmmmm, nice :-). I like it! I will definitely try this. Huh, that works a little differently than I thought ... My thinking was in the direction that only the power supply comes from the rails, and the commands towards HUB are classic BT connection from RC. But according to what you said, DCC actually does everything through the rails ... both the power supply and the signals to control the DCC decoder (and later the motor or something else). I definitely need to study DCC a bit, what and how it works. Thanks for the info!

Maybe I'll ask a stupid question. Isn't it possible to use LEGO HUB for trains(if it is cheaper than these special receivers) by taking only power (disconnecting / bypassing the motor) via fxtracks motor, bringing power to HUB and returning control to motor from HUB? I don't know how the engine is technically designed, but I guess it would take some minimal intervention to separate the motor from direct power (from the rails) and direct it to the HUB. Maybe capacitor at the input, to bridge any occasional bad contacts with the rails. It’s just an idea to think about, because I don’t know how it all looks and works.

Dear @Lok24, I'm not sure if I understand well ... Do you mean real locomotives or locomotive models (like Lego L system, HO system eg Marklin, Fleischmann, Rivarossi, Roco ...)? If you are talking about models, manual control of locomotive lighting is not very practical. If there is one locomotive, then it can somehow pass, but if several locomotives are operated at the same time ... Hmmm. The aspiration in systems is always that each active part (loco, signals, switches, city lights ...) acts individually, and again according to some common logic, that everything works in harmony. Yes. I found this in Pybricks examples for motor control (there are more options). I tried several ways and these two proved to be the best for me. Again, of the two, this one with percentage speed control is somehow more practical for me, because with control I don't have to know what the speed parameters are for motor (max speed). This also makes a wider application possible, as another motor with different characteristics can be used. You have far more experience and knowledge in this area. I would be happy if you would take some of your time and possibly give a suggestion on how to improve control or maybe give an idea for a completely different approach. I’ve found a solution, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s good (though it does the job). :-)

@JopieK Yess, yes, very good source. I used Philo's information from begining of my project. Also, everyone can find link on Philo's pages in my video and in video description.

Thanks, I tried to make it as simple and yet functional as possible. Yes, FXtracks ... I saw that product (it may sound weird, but for me it's actually all new about LEGO trains, because it was only a month ago that I first met). I think LEGO’s biggest failure is that it stopped using metal rails. Energy source and transmission are the basis for any system. The current system with autonomous power supply and all-plastic rails is a disaster.

I wonder why I didn’t peek into the forum earlier? I would have solved a lot of problems with the 10277 remote control earlier. But in the end it's sweeter when you find a solution yourself. It takes longer, but the satisfaction is greater. :-)

I'm not expert for any of program language, but it's not a problem for me to understand the logic of the any program language and make the necessary changes and upgrades. Of course, if I have a good source of information about the programming language. For this, I needed a relatively quick solution, so I focused on tried and safe ways to program LEGO smart bricks. I achieved my goal in a very satisfying way. And that is the most important thing. The biggest problem here is that there are no official specifications of the electrical values at the HUB outputs, so I had to rely on the experience and reverse engineering methods of other enthusiasts. What I found and tried in the segments of this project, I can confirm with great certainty that they did a great job. What I could not find, I concluded from my experience in electronics.

Thank you @JopieK for nice welcome words. I'm in this forum since December 31, 2009. But in the meantime the focus from LEGO has shifted to some other activities. I'm certainly glad to be back in the world of colorful bricks. :-)

Hi @Lok24 Thanks for the questions. Below are my answers. YES, by controller you can only turn on (right +) or turn off (right-) power for all lights in loco and wagons. I agree, but this is still playing model (toy). And whole project is mostly concept of proof. Slightly more serious train model systems (N, HO ...) do not have this functionality in wagons as standard (there are but in exclusive editions). This is a "toy" after all, and it has a lot of limitations, such as a very limited power supply (6xAAA battery). These batteries, however, need to keep gameplay for a reasonable amount of time. For this reason, I was extremely careful how much and how I would connect the presented lights. I connected them in series as much as I could, because in that case more LEDs consume the same amount of electricity as one, which is not the case in parallel connection. I would definitely not recommend a train composition longer than three lighted wagons. I think it is now clear why the wagons are not equipped with this additional rear lighting (or more then two LEDs) as well. But in fact, if someone has the desire and will ... just feel free. In the video, I also mentioned that I will be glad if someone expands the functionality according to their needs. :-) Don't worry, what I presented, I will use only for the purpose of playing. Primarily because of the atmosphere under the Weihnachtsbaum. No, the headlights switch back and forth (color) automatically, depending on the direction of the locomotive. This part is defined by the connection (see electronic diagram) of the electronics and the code (the part when testing whether the direction of rotation of the motor is in the + or - direction).

Well, idea = solutions are in the video for things that didn’t satisfy me. Control by the device intended for that (RC), "real" automatic lighting (forw/backw.) of the locomotive, energy transfer to the wagons without additional power supply, and at the same time easily detachable composition units, and lighting in the wagons (controlled by same RC on / off). Everything is shown in the video.

Hi! I was dissatisfied with some Powered Up original solutions and disappointed with the lack of "real" lighting on the locomotive, so I researched the existing solutions offered (all over the Internet), picked up the ones that suited me, tweaked them and designed the missing things. I put it all together in one video. If anyone finds this compilation of solutions useful, I will be glad. Along with the video, you can also find initial ideas for some solutions. The solutions in the video can be applied to any locomotive. Enjoy! https://youtu.be/INbRhMfnpJ0

kost u grlu Train Station - 3 points Cornelius Murdock Dentistry - 1 point ACPin Winter Church - 1 point