BMW

2 points - Fugazi's Persian Grocer, for adherance to category goal aligning to existing theme. 1 point - MrTools' Modular Market Square, for design merit though visual balance and details.

As a big fan of American class loks, I have really been looking forward to this set since its announcement... and finally picked one up. What I like best is that this set, like the TS3 movie itself, will make steam railroading come alive for a new generation. And its a pretty neat set to boot. The wheels are already setup to simply drop in an R/C train motor so I can see a lot of these running under many a Christmas tree if parents are quick to realize this. - BMW

I don't think trains will run that long as we have a finite amount of time to conduct the testing. I'm trying to rig up a lower capacity PF batt that will take less time to run to exhaustion. Failing this, we can partially charge a regular battery.

If you are attending Brickworld 2010 in Chicago next month (http://www.brickworld.us) then consider joining this exciting new contest: BRICKWORLD TRAIN TRIATHLON - POWER FUNCTIONS ENGINEERING CHALLENGE Think you have what it takes to build the best locomotive ever? Then come join the Brickworld Train Triathlon as the best Lego locomotives battle it out to be top dog. This rigorous competition will average each locomotive’s performance across three important real-world measurement criteria for actual locomotives: Strength, Speed, and Endurance. Strength – How much weight can a locomotive pull? Speed – How fast can it pull it? Endurance – How long can it pull it? Entry Rules: - Competition is open to all registered Brickworld attendees. - Limit of one locomotive entry per builder. - Locomotives must be power functions powered using any combination of motors but only a single standard rechargeable PF battery. - Locomotives must be presented for qualification at 10am on Friday June 18th at the RAILBRICKS magazine table. - Once qualified, all entries will remain on the competition table until all testing is complete at 5pm. During this time models may only be touched with a judge present. Builders will not be allowed to make upgrades/adjustments during this time although reasonable repairs are permitted if something breaks. - Entries must be recognizable as a steam or diesel powered locomotive model. They will not be judged on prototypical accuracy, scale, detail, snot technique, or artistic merits. However, the judges may disqualify any entry which they deem a non-train. (i.e. submit actual train models and not just a bunch of motors and wheels thrown together designed to win this contest but doesn't look like a real train). FAQ Q: How is each locomotive’s score calculated? A: Single heat for each criteria on the common layout. (Strength + Speed + Endurance)/3 where each criteria is a percentage proportional to the locomotive’s ranking for that criteria. Example: Lok A pulls 10 lbs in it’s strength heat. That 10 lbs falls 50% of the way between the worst pulling lok of 5 lbs and the best of 15 lbs. Lok A would then receive a “50” for its strength criteria. Speed and Endurance would then be calculated the same way and all three averaged equally. Q: Uh, that’s a little complicated… why not just see who can pull the most? A: Because the true “skill” of engineering is creating a design which optimally balances multiple requirements and tradeoffs. Real-life locomotives are measured not just on raw drawbar pull … but also on how fast they can deliver goods to market … and how fuel-efficient they are, among other things.. Q: Are there different size/weight categories? A: No. This year only a single category. Q: So does my tiny switcher stand a chance against a Big Boy? A: Well... possibly. A tiny switcher won’t be able to pull nearly as much weight. But strength is only 1/3 of the score. The switcher could score better than the Big Boy in speed or endurance. So there is some strategy involved. Using 6 large PF traction motors will increase strength but at the expense of endurance. Using a high gear ratio will increase endurance but at the expense of speed. Using large drivers will increase speed but at the expense of strength. The best design, as in real life, creates the best balance of these three criteria.

Regarding Catenary... Some years ago I also desired working catenary in Lego. After trying a few options, the system I settled on was to adapt a couple Maerklin HO gauge catenary elements. You can see a picture of it on Page 31 of Railbricks Issue #4: http://railbricks.com/media/railbricks_4.pdf . Yes, it is not pure Lego... but it is fast and reliable. - The Maerklin HO scale overhead wire sections just happen to work out to an even number of studs (so no cutting). And attaches well to standard 3mm hose using short bits cut from rubber pneumatic tubing. - The Maerklin HO scale pantograph fits nicely on a 4x4 plate. It is a tad undersized for Lego... but less width means the catenary support posts can be closer to the track. A wider O scale pantograph would be just as easy to install (but you would need to go with another manufacter). - Note that by adding overhead you now have an isolated second line so that you can run two trains independently on the same track. - BMW

Splendid. .. Looking very nice now! - BMW

Delighted to see your take on this classic American (4-4-0 wheel arrangement). Some thoughts: Prototype - The ATSF didn't run into Mexico (I thought your were going South of the border), but for classic Southwest flavor and heritage you can't beat the ATSF. Needs a tender. The gon is right on the money for character... but need trucks (the Europeans with their expensive high grade track got by with 2 axle cars). Also, I think you want blind flanges on the front locomotive drivers. Proportions - I agree with the comments to lower the boiler height... also the stack and cab too. Try to get the running boards right on top the drivers and the cab height should be <= to the distance from the railhead to the cab bottom. Lastly, American boilers characteristically taper larger between the sand (front) and steam (rear) domes. This is difficult to achieve in brick and is often skipped (I did so myself when I made the William Crooks 10 years ago http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=2643683 ). You could use slope bricks to taper the height in just the vertical direction (since trains are mostly viewed on the side). Colors - Prior to the Civil War, American locomotives were universally delivered in bright color schemes highly decorated with brasses, heraldry, etc. Afterwards they retained their Victorian ornate details but mostly switched to darker, more muted paint schemes. In the 1880s builders started loosing the brasses, details, and switched to mostly black paint schemes. And yes, locomotives typically followed the same progression as they were rebuilt in service over the years. Looking at your build I suggest that you lock on black with yellow highlights where the brasses would be. You can carry an accent color sparingly (cab window, tender). Also, switch to dark grey to represent the Russian Iron boiler jacket. Here are two good schemes for your reference: 1) Governor Stanford - http://www.carto.net/neumann/travelling/us...team_engine.jpg Note that prior to locomotive pooling in the 1880s, American locomotives were typically named... so why not name yours after your mother. 2) Reno Circa 1910 - http://www.virginiaandtruckee.com/Locomotive/No11.htm One of the most famous surviving American class locomotives of the famed Virginia and Truckee, and a life-long favorite of mine (by the age of 15 I could already sketch Reno's frame with every bolt correctly placed) - BMW

Gotta have a train in this sleepy old Mexican town. Prototypically speaking, the Mexican railroads typically bought used from the American railroads. So for late 1800s you would find 4-4-0s Americans and 2-6-0 Moguls pulling mixed trains. Lots of brass but it would all be weathered brown and the loks dusty. Simple black with white accents. Rolling stock would include a passenger car combined with flats, boxes, and cattle cars. The freight equipment provides great opportunities for little details which add so much character. The new TS Train looks like a fantastic place to start. The new pilot alone adds so much. And go watch some great western train movies. - BMW

What a splendid station. Would look right at home under the Christmas Cactus ;-) The roof support brackets in the corners are an unusual application of angled snot and look great. Maybe repeat two more flanking the dispatch office. Don't forget the water tower. - BMW

Adding smoke is a wonderful idea... but each approach has limitations so choose wisely. Smoke Fluid - The popular, time-honored method used for model trains. A small amount of a special oil (typically a glycol base) is placed in the bottom of a cylinder with a heated needle which causes the oil to "smoke" and rise out the top. The components and fluid are widely available, and installation and operation (eyedropper) are straight forward. However, be aware that smoke fluid doesn't evaporate cleanly... there is an oily residue which will cover the area around the stack and may leach into the surrounding bricks over time. Also be aware that the smell of the "smoke" can be distracting and is even offensive to some people. My suggestion is to visit a local model railroad show and hang out around a Lionel club for a time while they smoke up their BigBoy or Challenger. You be the judge. Some impressive effects can be achieved. I once saw a scratch built O-Scale steamer made to be as realistic as possible. Beyond the infinitesimal details and lighting, the builder even installed heating elements to simulate the heat from the firebox... and used blowers and valves to direct smoke (smoke fluid based) through to the exhaust ports, blowoff valves, etc. using an R/C unit. It was quite impressive. Real Steam - Not a good idea for a plastic model due to the heat. Water Vapor - It is possible to utilize small piezoelectric ultrasonic units to vaporize water in small containers and produce fog which looks like smoke. These are commonly found in table top humidifiers and Halloween stores to produce fog in skulls and pots. John Neal used one of these to create the smoke effect for a burning building on his Lego layout. However, be aware that fog is water vapor which will condenses around the emitting area. For a moving lok this may not be significant as it is for a stationary use. Used for long periods in an enclosed room it could increase the humidity and may accelerate oxidation of rails and other 9v/12v components. - BMW

Kudos to you on this wonderful MOC. You have really captured the mechanism and the details. Outside frame tea kettles are so interesting to watch... so next step is to get it moving. My Circus Train will go through a rebuild (hopefully by BW2010) to convert it over to PF using the "Sava-Shupp Minitruck" tender drive. Race ya ;-) - BMW

Wow. And I thought that all your models has sails or reciprocating engines ! Lots of character on this one. The broken, overgrown look and layed back men add a lot. Part-wise I love the truck journals of course... and they look very nice with the use of the 1x5 technic plates. I can just see this sitting on an RTN naval yard siding. You could include a mortar or cannon balls as the center load to add some visual "weight" to that swayback. - BMW

A very solid build... and the story behind it add just the right flavor. Could you play up the historical aspect by adding the dark room in a car with many reels of film? Maybe some cameras and other equipment laying about. - BMW

Thank-you to everyone for your kind words, and to the other builders for so many incredible MOCs. Every time I think all uses for a certain part of construction technique have been discovered... someone finds a new way. I truly enjoy seeing the innovation that contests like this inspire, and from which we all benefit. Moreover, this contest has definely raised the profile of the traintech forum so a big thanks to TheBrickster for his efforts in organizing this contest. - BMW

OK, a couple tips for beginners on where to start... #1 - (and I mean #1) - Join a local Lego train club / user group if available Don't be embarrased that you don't have a lot to share at first or aren't sure about your availability. While online building communities are wonderful, there is something more which live clubs bring. The point is that having regular face-to-face meetings and/or shows will force you to build with deadlines and eliminate procrastination. You can still participate in TrainTech nuggets to the club too :-) #2 - Tony make a good point too about starting small so as not to get overwhelmed. #3 - Build what you like This may sound obvious, but I regularly meet people excited about building Lego trains but just can't pick a prototype or keep delaying trying to find something really impressive or original. Don't start building just to impress others, don't worry that its been done before, or that you don't have all the perfect parts or colors. Just find a prototype that you like and start there with the parts you have. You can rebuild it later. If you like streamliners, maybe start with a car. But pick a subject/prototype that you love and build from your passion because that will give you the best motivation and opportunity to share with others. #4 - Read Railbricks (www.railbricks.com) Great inspiration, pictures, and online instructions to get started building and learn from. Copy the techniques in the instructions and build on from there. - BMW

I've tended towards building shorter rolling stock for just this reason. Its an engineering marvel to make a Big-Boy run around a traction radius curve... but it will never look good doing so. - BMW

Now that the category 2 voting is over I just wanted to add my compliments on this MOC. It does a great job of capturing the proportions, colors and details of the original. The builders plate, like the headlamps and snotted vents, adds a subtle, delicate quality. I also like how you worked in curve slopes on top the cab. You are good with decals so maybe consider printing counter weights? - BMW

A speeding, sprectral locomotive would be fun !

I'm sorry :-( The Indy universe is big enough for many builders and I hope that you start building soon while the creative juices are flowing. If a local LTC is available and you aren't already involved... please join as the show deadlines really do help increase building. My travelling layout is titled "Indiana Jones Brick Adventures" http://www.flickr.com/photos/brian_william...57614804372146/ I wanted to name it IJ "Railroad Adventures" but felt "Brick" would have broader appeal. Still, the trains have generated the most interest and you clearly understand the appeal. I've already built the minecar chase, Indy's first railcar and the rocket sled although haven't had time to photograph these yet. I'm probably back to Raiders and Doom MOCs for a while but train-wise I'll probably get to the KOCS train (where Indy meets Mutt) last so why not start there. Note that Spielberg oddly avoids establishing shots of locomotives, but on the KOCS DVD documentary they show the locomotive at the station with a couple closeups. - BMW

I'll second that. Most steamers which aren't rusting at least show layers of paint over rust. I don't see this... and the exposed iron doesn't appear significantly degraded (no bubbling around the rivets either). My guess it it was restored some time ago and now kept inside and only run in good weather. The maintenance appears as good as the Yucatan loks Disney runs at the Florida park. - BMW

Thank-you for the kind words. The Indy universe is a goldmine of inspiration, in particular for steam trains. I have 3 of the other trains planned which should keep me going until V comes out.

Good execution of a nice protoptype. I especially like how the 1x1 corner panels are rotated 45deg. - BMW

That's Beyer Peacock & Co #4459. Beautiful lines... you are truly blessed to have such wonderful steam heritage down under. http://www.australiansteam.com/nswgrframe.htm

I submitted it at 11:11pm on 9/30 CST (Chicago) time.

Eilif ? Hey... its modular Carl ! Get working on yours too. Matt (PQ) did such a nice job on the trucks and windows. You might be able to beat him to the engine... but you will ahve to work fast. - BMW