SuperCow

Then i got a good deal. 2 days ago i bought 8860 complete with box & plastic inlays in good shape + instructions like new. For 50 euro

Congratulations Blakbird, I enjoy your site much.

my range is better then the lego control, doesn't matter where i point. I use a normal irled 20ma ;D My range wasn't good first because it didn't oscillate on 38KHz but on 28Khz (read my comment in sourcecode)

I used a normal 940nm ir led. But i made a booster to boost it up to 200ma. An arduino/atmega pin only delivers maximum 20ma. I also made an Lego IR reviver using all 8 addresses. I still have to modify my remote control :P

I have made it a while back, a custom remote control My link Ill refresh the links, they don't work anymore

That why i made my own servo motor controlled by the PF remote. My link

You could try to only use the bottom port with hydraulic. The top seal is very weak. But you cant use a switch or pump then.

I think you could use this part instead http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=87083 it will stick 1 stud out but then its original.

The gears that are cut, are also glued so that they cannot turn anymore. This second stage(cut) will turn at the same speed as the first stage. As the cut gears are glued, the output shaft will turn as well the same speed. Thus increasing the output speed of the XL motor, en reducing the torque.

You could use 2 ir-receivers to power 1 motor link

The only way to use remote on remote it to change the cable see improvised schema. Normal the outer powerlines are used, the inner is used for the motor, as it can reverse polarity. With a small change you can use it to power the remote The only negative I can think with this system is as C1 and C2 can deliver total 1000 milliamp of power. So XL motor's are out of the question. As in the other topic, a switch can be used as well: Then you can use a motor with remote to control the switch, and not have the 1000milliamp problem

You could use the switch, it changes the polarity, you could use that to power the receivers, but you have to hack the extension cable

I have called Lego direct (the Netherlands) and I'm put on the list for the new parts. Also the will keep me updated with the progress. They told me that the new part, linear actuator is now being produced in the factory.

1: No. 2: Individual. 3: surprise me. 4: A technical realistic (super) car. Like MacPherson suspension, engine with valves, 6-7 speed compact gearbox etc. 5:General i would see the technic line more technical and less about perfect/smooth/closed design, then you dont see the gears :( Use the model team for smooth designs

Well I guess Blakbird wants to include it to his collection

My oldest set, and my first technical set. 8020 This set hooked me up for technic from then on. I must have been around 8 years

Technics is also a possibility: brickset

I think it needs a XL motor to power those 2 actuators. 1 m motor already had trouble to use 1 actuator when it need to lift. And it the picture, the 2 actuators are increased in speed, and less torque, so it almost needs a xl motor.( i hope)

Mark: I will try to rebuild your Continuously Variable Pneumatic Control and hook up the servo. allanp: Well it supports the fully power functions protocol. I haven't got a train remote, but currently it supports the "combo direct mode" (pf remote) and "Combo PWM mode" (lego hasn't released this remote yet), its the same as the train remote, but it will lose signal after 1-2 sec. My own build: I have thought about solenoid valve, Fishertechnic has one, with is almost compatible with lego(9v same hose system). Only to get good control you need 3 solenoid valves and they cost about 20 euro a piece, above my budget.

I used a mini servo 9g 1.3kg torque. As you can see in the first photo it fits nice in 4 by 4 studs (most difficult is to align the shaft to the lego holes) I used a micro motor pulley on the servo shaft. And then you need a controller to translate the Lego remote signals to servo pulses. I don't know if there is a interested, but I can release the code in the micro-controller I wrote.

True, I'm calling it a pneumatic system, as that was my main goal to archive. The servo is connected to a Lego valve. The problem with a normal motor(you can even use the micromotor) is control, and precision/speed. Without using a nxt you can not determine the center position. When I give a forward/backward command from the remote, the servo turns so far till the valve is open(up or down). until i release, the servo goes automatic to center. And with precision, when you use the valve manually, you can open it slightly to move the piston slower. This is also possible with the servo.

I've had an idea to make an excavator, making it completely remote with the PF system. I have to make an extra controller, and order some more servomotors.(and time) About using non legoparts, Well some thing are simply impossible to make, or its getting very large. This is possible with mind storms. But the mind storm motor is very big, and the controller too. And the best thing about it, is I've learned a lot more about micro-controllers :D

I've finally have completed my project. A Powerfunctions controlled pneumatic system. With my system you can control a pneumatic switch, or a steering system. The motor I'm using is a Servo motor. The controller board exists out a ATtiny84 and a power converter. Attached is the Infra Red receiver to received the commands from the Lego remote. You can connect 2 servo motors, just like the normal lego receiver. You can select the 4 channels via a dipswitch (and an additional 4 channels that's hidden in the protocol) And there is a special function to set the center, left and right position of the servo. The controller is 4 by 4 nops. Some photo's Video

I've been to Legoworld yesterday. It was my first time, and it was very crowded haha. I'm new to the seen, but I've managed to speak to some. I was a little disappointed, overall.

I'm sure ill come, i already have a ticket :) This will be my first time.