roj2323

I personally believe you are better off going with power functions as the track is cheaper, parts are more plentiful and you have more options for motors and other ways to power your trains.

How about printing up a larger radius? 104 studs perhaps? http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=270944

Yes parrawellograms are essential to ensuring the track geometry matches up properly. The easiest way to make one is to take 1 piece of curve track and use a 2x8 plate to measure and cut off both ends to a length of 2 studs. Then do the same to another piece of curve track using a 1x8 door rail instead as a spacer cutting the track ends off to a length of 1.5 studs. Next take the same ends lefts or rights and marry a 2 stud and a 1.5 stud pieces together. this creates the parrawellograms you will need to join two stubby switches together to make a smooth crossover or an original switch as you mentioned when combined with a half curve. Tip: if you are doing this mod to 9v track cut the track with the metal attached then use plumbing pipe flux on the side of the rail (use an extremely small quantity). Next put the solder on the soldering gun tip then tap the rail until the flux does its job and pulls the solder to it. IMPORTANT!!! Do not hold the soldering iron to the rail!! Doing so will melt the plastic and you will have to start over. Btw I still haven't found a use for the 45' crossover which is why I never made one. Lego track geometry is strange as it is and making a 45' crossover in one length of track would be unrealistic due to issues of structural strength. I looked into the possibility of making one at 24 studs (1 and a half straights) but like I said I haven't found a use for one. I did however make this: As I actually had someone order it. I found this interlock "crossover" so useful I saved my patterns and I plan on making several for myself in the future. I also made this single slip interlock: I made this interlock mostly just to challenge myself but as you will see if you look through my gallery it is quite useful and I will probably make more. The only important note on this piece however is it's not really realistic to make in a 9v version due to the multiple short lengths of track. ondrew

hey this is ondrew. i've been modifying track since 2005 i think. i've done well over 300 peices so i've pretty much seen everything. i'd be happy to answer a few questions if you'd like. ondrew

i spent probably close to $5000 us if you include trips to brickfest, NWbrickcon, and the NMRA national convention. however i'm can happily say that selling lego and modifying lego track paid for just about all of it. all in all it was an awsome year, all things concidered. ondrew

yes i'm unfortunetly familure with bricklink" i've spent a fortune there . actuly i've been using it since it was called brickbay in 2001?. My plans for the bricks are for a 64x 80stud factory and various other turn of the century town structures. i also have some ideas for trees and other things but i have such a limited supply right now that my entire collection of redish brown fits in a small plano bin. =( i'll build my supply slowly i guess i just really don't want to make 30 bricklink orders for what i need. one can hope, ondrew

I still have to get my hands on one of these trains but I sincerely believe that a battery pack "rechargeable" would likely fit with a few small modifications. As soon as I get my hands on one I will attempt to do this and post instructions or offer it as another service to add onto my track modifications. I the mean time where's the photos?????? Ondrew track mod info: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=142467

i am looking for a LARGE supply of 1x2 redish brown bricks af anyone has a good supply please please let me know. thanks, ondrew

Hey all, I would like to run a town structure contest. This is partly because there has been a shortage of town moc's on lugnet lately (1), and personally I think it would be a great way to spark some new ideas for the community. The rules are purposely simple and I