Brickimad

A single transformer will be enough, but on long runs will be a problem. I've got a long 12v layout upstairs, and what I did to rectify voltage drop is to run the power to a Busbar Terminal block, then add seperate wires to the corners of the track. (remember to observe polarity, when on opposite sides of the track!) So when the motor is in that location, voltage drops are minimized. I found the train goes constant speed all way round. When I remove a wire, the drop is noticeable...

I don't get it... However, Vincent Van Gogh exacerbated himself for his wacky artwork, and look what it's worth now. Really if it is a tunnel, it needs to be a tunnel, to be under this theme...

Please be careful on this. There are high voltages on the mains side, even when the power is off, there could be a charge in the primary side of the transformer coil. Also if you're not sure about electronics, or young, please get an adult-or electrician to help you out. Even 110v can kill, or start a fire...

I can run quite a few on the 12v system, but they get slower the more one puts on. Reckon 5 is the max off one controller. About the same with the 9v system. This is an older video showing the 12v system... My 12v trains

Regarding long layouts, I've added extra power pick-up points into the layout. The main power goes to a busbar, or a chocolate block, with connections for adding outputs. Every now-and-then, add a pick-up point to that section, which does two things: Increases the voltage, overcoming voltage drop (resistance) and if there is a "dead" bit, that would sort it. p.s. make sure polarity is correct!!! The full-size electric trains also use the same system, every few miles, a different sub-station powers a few miles of line, until the next section. Have you noticed when on a train, power being switched off and on. Of course the train has it's own internal power, both to run the lights, and prevent overloads when coming into a new section.

One word: WOW! I'm really impressed with the detail. Literally everything has been incorporated. I reckon this must be the most impressive Star Wars model ever made. You should get in touch with Lucasfilm, to get it recognised. I mean it...! Again very impressive and I reckon everyone will share my views..

Solution: 1. Pick up flex track. 2. Put in to this container: Simples! I also hate flex track...

I have all types of track. Reckon that 12v and 9v were the best. Both have pros and cons, the blue era was a good idea, although not robust enough. 12v sorted that out, and I reckon was the "Golden Age" of Lego trains, as you have so many options, such as stop signals, level crossings, etc.

I bought just the new cargo train engine, only off ebay. Don't want the tracks or PF gear, as I have bought a few 9v motors, and will use them.

A nice touch is the smaller things, like the electrical switchroom and plantroom - a vital componant to any building, where lighting and power is concerned. talking of which, are you going to add little lights to the exhibits. I reckon Fiber-optic cables, would be a good idea, simulating spot lights.

[quote name= As I child someone made me touch both contacts of a 9V battery with my tongue. I don't know who played this trick on me. I can't remember. The feeling isn't nice but it is far from being dangerous. ...You didn't do it again!!! Seriously, PC has gone too far. It if carries on, there will only be push lego trains left, as 9v is far too dangerous - might blow up the world. Oh dear. I never injured myself, on 12v trains, now my day job is handling 400-11,000 volts as an electrician. Taught me common sense, not going through life with blinkers on, the kids will learn nothing, until it's too late.

How do I add train inventory on posts? I noticed that some people have a 45 degree pictures of the trains in their collection, displayed on the bottom of their posts, which must be saved in the user settings, and don't know how it is done, or what the application it comes off. I want to do the same. Please can someone help? Thanks

Go on, crack open the boxes!!! Seriously, though, today's Lego boxes are not a patch on the older 80's stuff. The boxes then were a work of art, seperate componants, spaces for the motor, etc... Today, it's just bags thrown into a empty box, with paper work. An empty (Vintage) Lego Train box is going for £50 GPB on ebay!!! Enjoy...

Apart from the logo, you also need music. Que: Kraftwerk: Trans Europe Express. They even did a logo, in the same theme as the art here. Very retro, like their videos are, coupled with electro.

I don't normally comment on the good work displayed on the forum, but am quite impressed how close the model is to the full-size. Glancing between photos, it is more like spot-the-difference, as most attributes have been incorporated into the model, as features have been faithfully reproduced. I Make/fly Scale Model RC planes, as well, and trying to emulate the full-scale is not always easy. It would make a good next model for TLG, being easy construction, but having presence.

I put the 9v motor on it. At full power, with the two cars almost leaves the track, unless I go to max 90% power on the controller. Also put it on the 12v track, again almost too much speed. Not bad for a 30-year old motor!!! Suppose just goes to show how $%@p the PF system is. The PF was from the city train, which now has 9v on it. Looks like I'll be putting the PF unit (Motor/RX/TX and battery box on ebay... ) You're right about the technic axels. They are fixed, without a Differential-causing extra drag on the wheels round the fairly sharp lego tracks. I replaced the bogey with normal lego wheels, or once could replace the axel with the technic beam clip/cross bit. Just loaded this Youtube clip of the 12v system...

[quote name=' I have a nice expanse to work with and my yard is lined on one side with a chainlink fence along a river walkway, so I hope to make it elaborate enough to catch people's eyes as they walk. Probably find some of your track missing, as people walk by, nicking it and all...

I'll be using a 9V motor in mine. Have a full Ir set from the 7938 set, which I pulled out and fitted a 9v motor instead. Thought about using the unit, but decided not to. I do need another 9v motor, though. Time to look on ebay...

Mine arrived today!!! Right-oh! Signing off the site to commence building...

If you leave even plastic track outside, not only does the winter degrade the plastic, the plastic is not fully UV stabilized. What would happen is that the plastic would crack and split in the sun, over a period of time. Probably it would be safe for a short time.

Regarding the title of the thread: Not yet... Ordered it, but on the Lego.co.uk site, released on April 1st (sic), but said will sent on 4th May, then 6th May. Checked just now, but not saying any delays. Is it in the post? Watch this space!!! Subject: Motorizing, have 9V and 12v Motors. Will do both and try them out. Should take about 5 seconds to mod from one to the other.

Looks good. Pity Lego don't make a kit, then again, TLG is bit behind the times, regarding diverse subjects. The fire engine could have come in handy a few years ago. Coming back on a full-size train (a rubbishy 1950's elec "shed") - caught the engine fire, and smoke billowed out of the motor/engine housing. Luckily we rolled and made it to our stop. The engine was starting to "cook" just after the station. I got off and walked home, with smoke filling the air...

I've got the EN, and loads of 12v and 9v Motors. I used the carriage to sling a motor unit under it, which pushes the train, with no problems. This is the 12v on a small track, not even at full power...

Looks like I'll have to wait until 4th May until it ships here in the UK. Just was about to order one, but still waiting. Pah! Not a happy chappy.