Olog

Thank you all for your suggestions! Beej, Panda, good ideas and thanks for the clarification. Now I'll have to thing of a way to get some extra 12V rails to make it a complete loop, since I'm not too keen on keeping an eye on the layout all the time and make sure to turn the trains the other way. Also, this thread has 1337 views at this moment >_> Edit: I have a new question! I just realized I'm missing one crucial element for 12V ...Rims! I have no rubber rims to put on the wheels. I was looking around BL last night for these, and I was wondering if there is any way to buy replacements? make my own? maybe there's someone who makes these rims?

Sorry for resurrecting this, but I'm in need of some help. I'm planning a layout for a future-future event in Romania, but due to my small collection of 12V tracks, I'd like to keep the train layout as simple and as practical as possible. We're planning three or more tables of city-scape, each linked together with rail bridges. My first idea was to make a single track along all tables, with a loop at each end so the train can turn and continue it's voyage around the layout on the same portion of track in the middle. Like so O-----O BUT ... It's Illogical. Since the cycle wouldn't be complete this way. So I'm wondering if there's any way to avoid using a double quantity of straight tracks... is it possible to link the two ends using 12V cables? Thus making it work theoretically (in my mind at least, but that doesn't mean much :P ) As an update to my initial project, I managed to score another ebay auction for 12 euros for a couple of switches, 12 straight rail sections and 22 curved rail secrions. I'm pretty confident that I'll be able to amass enough rails for a nice little layout that would look great.

I noticed there are lots of great bargains on Ebay. I have a theory: Here you can see one (possibly incomplete) 7735 12V train set, with transformer . At this moment there are only seconds left until the bidding ends, and it's at 7 euros. You know why? Because of the title of the auction. Most Ebay buyers usually search for specific items such as "lego 12V", "lego eisenbahn" ....and it's obvious that not all sellers label their lots with these words. These items are not found by most lego buyers. Your only chance is to just search for "lego" and look through the hundreds of bids ending that day. If it weren't so much trouble to send payment to Germany through bank transfer, I'd be all over this auction.

AMuller, Mark Bellis, thank you both for your replies. Is that the only thing the vertical coupling is for? If I ignore the decoupler feature, can I use normal couplings? I'll try not to be as reckless :), I have two 12V motors on the way to me, and I plan to keep them in fair condition. Welcome! I'm sure this community needs more enthusiastic 12V train fans such as yourself :D . I kept in mind your tips to keep an eye out on ebay auctions, and I managed to score this: lot of rails, switches, controls and a motor for 24 Euros (+7 euros shipping to a friend in Germany), heck! the engine alone is worth 50 Euros. I also got in touch with a someone in Hungary who was open to trades. I gave : one bane minifig, one riddler minifig, one Ashoka, one Anakin (CW), one Rotta + 20007 and 20006 sets in built once condition with instructions. These parts and sets never cost me anything, most were from prizes. And I received one full circle of 12V tracks, 4 straight tracks, one transformer, one black 12V motor, a bunch of couplings and magnet. Sure I might have gotten more for those figs and sets if sold individually, but I never spent a cent on those. I also made a BL order for a curved transformer connecting rail (4.50 $) and two 2x2 white light bricks ( 6.50 $ each) ... this is the only part I don't see as a bargain. But so-far I'm very content with my 12V buys.

That there is some far out thinking! I like the idea of using a 9V technic motor, and the only part sacrificed (and by that I mean horribly sliced) would be a short and cheap connection wire (even I'm not purist enough to care about it). I also like sticking to a sure power source rather than batteries. I am still in negotiations with my supplier of parts, so-far we're settled on a Bane and Riddler minifigs in exchange for a round complete track layout, some straight tracks, couplers and magnets. Now the non-train motor plan SlyOwl suggests could be put in action ... it all depends if I can trade my brickmaster 20007 set on a 12V motor :D . It does help, thanks! Aye, Venturing into unknown territories (themes) is a thrill :D .

Thank you for the info, that is something I wasn't completely sure about. I was hoping there was a way to avoid those classic 12V wheels. I've seen different types of 12V motors on BL, one with two pinholes and the other with three (and that one has two versions). Are there any major differences?

Panda9001100: I admire your layout skills and patience, as well as your knowledge in 12V. What you did there is beyond anything I even plan to achieve by collecting trains. I am located in Romania, so 12V would be fairly accessible for reasonable prices. Thank you for the tips. The Brickster, everyone else, thank you for the honest suggestions, but I am afraid I will have to stand my ground . Do not get me wrong, I am not trying to come off as arrogant, or an avid collector who has nothing better to do with his money. Reading over these comments, I realized I have to turn this into a personal project, and see if I can collect the basics of a 12V layout with the limited financial resources that I have (my day job payment is almost 200$ a month). In a way this will be an experiment in what would be the cheapest possible way to own a simple 12V layout. I do not plan on buying official complete sets, and I don't plan on buying parts for a huge layout. I only need a motor, transformer and tracks, I will build my own locomotive and train carts, and the track layout will be basic. I will also share my tips while in the process of buying components, maybe more people will be inspired to start their own train layouts, without having to rob a bank (for example the cost of tracks to build a circle track layout for 12V, will cost me the equivalent of the brickmaster exclusive Venator set, which comes cheap for most in the US, but pricey in Europe. And I'm negotiating this trade with someone right now) . The way I see it there's two ways for me, I can either give up on 12V and buy a 9V set off ebay/BL, but a couple years later I will want a 12V set/parts anyway. Or just continue with the initial plan as described above. Again, thank you all, and I hope this project will be received with positive opinions

As I was scrolling down to read the replies, I was reaaaaally hoping I would find at least one encouraging suggestion On the price and switches: I'm not a mechanically gifted person, I simply like gizmos. Wouldn't the extra PF systems to control the switches even up the cost of a 12V? The only gripe I really have with 9V are the expensive tracks, although I'm not sure they reach the cost of 12V tracks. But seriously, I appreciate all the help so-far :) I'm definitely going to look into a 9V purchase too. For now I'll stick with the plan until I hit a wall, even if it might not be the most cost efficient way, at least for stubbornness' sake. (some of the cheapest 12V accessories such as tracks are available in a BL shop close to my location, if it wasn't for this I would have long abandoned this idea). Thank you and please let's hear some more!

Hello everybody! I decided I couldn't just sit around watching lego turn expensive, so I'm now planning my first venture into the realm of LEGO trains! It took me a while to think it all through, and I've decided to settle on 12V, I'm a sucker for the complicated commands and tracks. My plan is to build my own train, while buying only the most basic and necessary parts for a 12V train (locomotive and a minimum of 2 carts). While browsing through BL and ebay, it became obvious that 12V trains can leave you penniless in a matter of minutes. Even with the basic stuff such as a round track, a motor, bogey parts, transformer, cables, etc. it comes to around 100$....cheapest on BL. As I'm not a collector, I find no comfort in having complete boxed or even built sets laying around. I really want to make this train my own by building it almost from scratch (of course, based on a real life train), and keep on adding to the track over the years (the only way I could afford expanding). I even wonder if a used complete set would be more worth it than individual parts. I'm in need of some friendly tips, suggestions and walkthroughs about starting on 12V. ...maybe there's even someone with a spare 12V motor Thank you, -Adrian

Thank you for letting all the late entries enter, there are some great last minute MOCs that were the same case as mine. Since I did post this in the Pirate forum first, it's lacking the description that says "PTV contest entry - Large". Thanks for the comments so-far. Guss: ! Yes ! Sharks :D Bonaparte: Pictures edited, gallery added :) Thank you again. Erdbeereis: 1- Here's what you're looking for: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Olog/Pirates/4small.jpg blood! 2- Believe me I've used my last 1 x 1 blue tile on there. Parts were scarce for this MOC, I usually have around one or two MOCs built at a time, now I have 20... because of the AFOL event here in romania. So you can guess I have a very limited collection now. 3- Carrots are not animals :0 j/k . I completely forgot about adding animals, but I have no monkeys, and the crab thing has been done too many times already, birds I have but forgot. 4- Again something I don't have, palm leaves and tree trunks , that's why I tried to compensate with the normal tree on the right.

Vig. 46a This would have been my large entry for the PTV contest, unfortunately I missed the deadline by almost five hours thinking it would be tonight rather than noon. I had the entry built for at least two weeks, and now I've learned my mistake in postponing the photography session. Now to the MOC! :D Captain Furrybeard's scurvy crew decided to take on and pillage the small settlement of Jaggidy Rock. With their schooner all set up they unleashed the feared "Shark Attack" upon the unsuspecting villagers and imperial soldiers. The few that remained after the initial attack were confused and were no match for the Furrybeard's landing party. Here is the Brickshelf gallery pictures of dastardly despicable deeds : The celler Shark smashing through building First blood Taking over the village It was certainly a very challenging build, especially with the piece and minifig restrictions (sorry, none of that fancy new pirate sets here). I also have a bunchload of MOCs built for the event I'm organizing taking up most of my parts collection. Thanks for looking! -Adrian F.

Ah crud. I thought the deadline was midnight ...I'll post my entry in the pirates forum. I guess there's no harm in asking if I can get a pardon and still post my entry. I was seriously delayed by miserable weather for photographing, editing also took up three hours.

I was about to post my large entry but I keep getting an error message saying I don't have permission to start a new thread in this forum. If I'm not mistaken it's not yet past the deadline. What seems to be the problem?

1: "Noy Jitat", built for nnenn's Novvember challenge: Brickshelf 2: "8Ri Scaevola" The Scaevola was used to highlight large enemy cruisers or space stations. Once the fighter marked it's target it had to quickly evade detection and return to it's main force. The marked targets would be highly vulnerable to torpedoes or artillery fire. Designed with playability in mind, the cockpit spreads open by pulling the rear thruster. As seen here 3: "F09 Stargazer Model B" The first fighter sized ship capable of tackling larger targets, the F09 was the only fighter capable of being equipped with both torpedoes and heavy armor. Although it was a sluggish ship, it's tough plating made sure it got back safe from it's missions. Back picture That's it, thank you for viewing!

I added a shiny new avatar just for this occasion :D Hand drawn by me!