Jump to content

Pemil_99

Eurobricks Vassals
  • Posts

    13
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Pemil_99

  1. Hello! I used the Old LEGO cavalry torso as the base for the wrinkles and front flap of the torso. Then increased the amount of buttons, made a more detailed belt and made a backside. This is based on the Richmond Depot jacket with 9 buttons and the type of collar and backside. Here is 3 versions for white decal paper and they should match DBG, dark tan and tan. I also included one for transparent decal paper. https://www.flickr.com/photos/70340231@N05/shares/V39Yg087YE I couldn't include the photos in the comment, but here should be a link to a Flickr album with the four versions, please let me know if the link works.
  2. Hey, That answer was great! You said that if the picture is at least 300dpi it's up to the printer. I'm looking at buying my first printer but having a hard time to know what printer is "good enough". The cheapest colour laserjets can print at 1200x1200 dpi or 2400x600 dpi while an inkjet at 1/3 of the price can print at 5760 x 1440 dpi but to me that's just numbers and doesn't tell me anything really. Sine I can't follow your advice and see the difference between prints of the same picture I'm not sure what the specifics actually mean. I know its very subjective but would a printer at 1200x1200 dpi be good enough for making decals? I don't plan on looking at them with a lup, but want them to look good at a distance or on pictures in builds.
  3. Thank you! I've done a test print of some decals at university with their black and white laser printer on normal paper. Looking closely it's possible to see the dots, but the convenience factor is a big one. I'm looking at a Brother laser printer which says it can print 2400x600 DPI, which doesn't tell me much. As a student with limited funds I'm just afraid to spend 300€+ on a printer to find out it won't work. But I hope it will work!
  4. Yeah I know there's different papers for the Inkjets and laserjets. Is there something to look for? I've read about dpi and stuff, is that something I should worry about or any new printer of the two types should be able to print good decals on the right paper?
  5. Hey! I downloaded Inkscape and started making decals which went out of hand. I wa planning on just making a handful of designs and then do a testprint. But the printer we had have given up. Making decals was fun though so I've probably made around 30 designs and versions by now. But since the printer did not work I need a printer so I can use the decal designs. So to my question, what to look for in a printer? Is Inkjet or laserjet the best for printing decals? I have planned to more or less only use clear decal paper. I've read about dpi and settings and everything. My knowledge about printers are close to zero. What should I be looking for when buying a printer? Is there something specific I should look into or can I just go to the store and buy the cheapest inkjet they have? I'd love to hear what you have to say so I can start printing and share what I've been working on!
  6. I'd love to see the SVG file. Have just downloaded Inkscape and started playing around to learn. I'd also like to see or try and change the background of the decal so it can be printed on clear paper and applied to any colour torso. If you would be able to create another 1x2 decal I'd love to see the blanket as a decal. Or if anybody else feels like making it into a decal. Is there any good way to make decals from Lego designs? Or do one have to start from the beginning and draw and try to copy the design?
  7. Thank you!
  8. Minifigcat also have gasmasks. These ones is good for ww2: https://www.minifigcat.com/shop/home.php?cat=474 Unfortunately I don't have any of them myself but from what I've heard they work fine. On them you put on the canister so it points forward as they did on the early ones instead of to the side as they do nowadays and as sidans does.
  9. Okay (not ok-ey), well thank you. I've never seen any store that has the average thin before though. But I guess I'll just have to continue looking for a better store. But I bet it will be hard to find those 35 or so heads for that good price. Or well the price I thought it was. xD But yeah, I'll take that advise and check these kind of things before I fill the shopping cart.
  10. Hello! My name is Per-Emil and I'm new here on the site. Created my account a while ago but I haven't been active here. I posted my first photo on flickr for soon 3 years ago and that's where I've been active. Now I have 119 photos up there. I like training which is explained by that I am a wrestling trainer (greek-roman) and I am very intrested in history. I like to read, mostly history and I am active in one of the reenactment groups here in sweden. We portrait the German 2nd panzer division. And ofcourse I like LEGO. My favorite LEGO topics to build is WW1, WW2 and modern. I'm also getting more and more into medieval, ancient and the 17th, 18th and 19th century wars. I have a lot of brickarms and belongs to the group of people that like to customize my minifigs (witch I do more than buying prints) and it includes decals, paint and sculpting. So yeah, that's me! I hope I'll get to know many of you while I'm here.
  11. Hey! I've been buying a lot from bricklink during the last years and of course there has been stores that has been really expensive and had minimum buying price really high. But I never really had any problems with the stores, until now. As I almost do all the time I've placed carts in a few different stores. When I should checkout I realised that it stood the average price on the pieces was too low. So I had to by more stuff, more expensive stuff, "throw" the cheaper stuff and so on. When I after 45 minutes were done, I had the same problem with one of the other two. So I did the same thing there. When finally all three orders were done I tried to checkout. Then in one store the sellers hasn't written what the shipping is, at all. Which to me is really strange. One other store takes extra money for handling and to pak the stuff and really high shipping. They used to have different prices depending on how much the weigh was, but here, one cost. For all orders upto 10000g. That's sick. The shipping cost was almost as high as my order. The third one wanted every lot to be worth at least 2 euro each, otherwise he took a fee of 0.59 euro per lot that was too cheap. Because I for example don't wan't more than 1 of every face and they don't cost 2 euro each, I would have to pay 17 euro extra which is like the half cost of the complete order. So my question is, has the rules changed a lot since I ordered last time so that you can't make "small" orders? (like the thing about the average price per piece) Or have I just had the "luck" to find the stores of a bunch of not that good sellers?
  12. Oh, yeah I did. Sorry. Ok but thanks for your answer!
  13. Does anyone know a good colour for Dark tan? I've used Revell matt 80 which is 90% similarity. I've heard Model master armour sand should work good, is that so? Also do you have any good for sand blue? I've heard that model master azure blue should work fine. I live in southern sweden and it doesn't seem there is any resellers of Model master here so I haven't been able to test any of them yet.
×
×
  • Create New...