Jeroen vW

There is an earlier topic about rubber bands sizes. On the well known chinese site there are a lot of rubber bands available. If you search lego rubber bands you get plenty results for the white red yellow and blue ones. Good prices. The black ones are a little harder, but if you work at it, you can find a affordable replacement.

How about a small N20 motor? They are geared down, so larger torque, slower speed. File is here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3968044 Greets Jeroen

I've been tinkering with leds and lego for a while now. I would advise not to replace the leds of the PF. Instead take a 5 mm or 3 mm led in any color you want and put them in your project. The 5mm led almost fits in a standard lego technic hole. And when you buy them you have the exact voltage and current. And you can select the brightness. Leds are often too bright for Lego imho. So i almost always limit the light they give. There are a lot of examples on the internet. Or buy a premade kit.

There is a way to include smal N20 motors. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-yAbtxD6Sa4. You don't need the 'box' of the design that goes over the motor. Only the plate that goes in front. Or you could do it with this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3968044 Maybe you could do the same for even smaller motors. Kind regards. Jeroen

Well i also have some connectors and a caliper :). It seems to me they are M2 with a tap of 3 mm. I tested it with a set of small screws i have. I used M2 length 4 mm (the black one) and they work perfectly. So the scrub screws you suggested should work too. Just pick M2 with a length of 3 or 4 mm. Another observation i have is, that the connectors (the metal part) are very similar to the miniature bananaplugs of 2,6 mm. Like these: https://eshop.microrama.eu/en/test-benches/400-2-6-mm-male-banana-plug-set-of-6.html Maybe they could be used to replace a missing inner connector. Kind regards Jeroen

How about these?

Personally I would kill for a planetary gear with high reduction. Like the shown model with 1:64 ratio.

Wow Ingmar, These are impressive. Nice to see someone I have met in real life is also an afol. And a masterbuilder at that. I'm gonna have a look at your other models. Jeroen

I'm interested in more wheels myself. Alainnake: did you receice your 200 wheels and do they have the right measurements? Codefox: did you get your wheels the right width by shaving them down? Working on a placing an old big motor from an old printer into a locomotive. Greetings

Don't mind me asking, but how about strait track? Could be 8 standard length or some thing like that. I have enough curves, but it's straits i need. And maybe some 3 way switches.

Code 250 is the right height if you put it directly on a lego plate/sleeper. http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemPic.asp?P=4166 You have to remove the cable grooves. You can do that with a standard 2x8 plate too. When you put the track in place of the removed cable grooves or dots you get the right height exactly. I tried to make some myself but had some trouble connecting the rails to the lego. I tried with superglue, but that wasn't strong enough. Now I'm thinking of fixing the rails in between with some plastic strips.

interested pending price I have always loooved custom parts.

You could add a supercap. These are high capacity capacitors. They are sort of like a battery, but much faster charging. Precisely what you need. Use the powerpickup suggestion from Impact. You should also add more wheels. And if you make some more, please make a lot more, so all the afols here can buy some from you.

I got mine at conrad. The smallest ones I could find. There should be some available in the states. http://www.conrad.com/CYLINDER-MAGNET-ITS-LZ-1335.htm?websale7=conrad-intπ=502601&ci=SHOP_AREA_83990_0214811 Just use any type of small cilinder selonoid. If you put power on them for longer periods they will get hot, so best to switch it off again after the train has passed. I'm thinking about making a timercircuit for it.

2 years back I modified a broken switch. It works very well with just a simple toggle switch and a power supply. A spring makes sure the switch returns to the normal position. It's very small and not that expensive, though there is some work to modify it. I'm thinking about painting it the same color as the track.

Well I have no friends with a mill. Couldn't I buy some wheels from someone here who can make some? Reading the replies here it seems there would be more people who would like to buy them. Anyone?

I don't think the problem is the wheels. More likely that the track isn't clean enough everywhere. There are several ways to clean the track. If you search for 'clean track' online there are a vast amount of solutions. Another good idea would be to include a supercap, to prevent stutter. Now please tell me where did you get those wheels and can i buy some too? I would very much like to add some to my train.