DzieX

Hi, I did restore some of parts in photos, but I made mistake and 9 liftarms spent too much time in hydrogen dioxide. Is there a way to restore their color? I heard about burnishing, but I'm not sure it's that case.

I've tested it with pump from set 42008 which I bought meanwhile - works much faster. In meantime LEGO responded, that they sent me new improved pump for free :)

Came up it's most possible explanation. I've firstly tested new batteries with no result. After that I decided to dismount and open all cilinders, but i didn't help. Finally I've dissasembled truck apart to modules, took gearbox and removed the pump. Here's how it look. Looks like characteristic breaks. Sent an email to LEGO. I'm curious if they can help with that.

I will, thank you. But.. this eneloop charges up to 1.5V.

Eneloop Black AA freshly charged

I did that. It's slightly better, but not ideally

@Jurss thank you. I guess, I'll start with new, improved pump, but I'm also thinking about put some silicon spray gear in cilinders

Hmm, might be - meanwhile I've tested cylinders by plugging them directly to pump. They don't work fast. I'm pretty sure there's no leakage on cilinders/pipes as an arm stays in position when left with the pressure inside. That's my first pneumatic technic set - I have no comparison to others. Do you have any YT videos which show how it should work? I don't only mean this set, but cilinders itself.

Hi Does yours is also that slow? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4bTuELbwr0a I bought it second handed - it wasn't used for a while. I appreciate any advice on that :)

So basically it's possible to fit it there. I didn't have enough parts in black color to finish the top, but it's functional. It could be 1 stud longer to also cover back of batterbox. RC version has less power then 9V - that's for sure. Anyway, it's just a try and I'm going to rebuild it back to 9V. I needed to replace original hook by magnetic one.

Hi, Do you know if it's possible to connect more than two electric components to WdDo hub?

So basically this side

Ok, I'll to that first, but need to check by element which are these

I'll try to check which component heats up. I have nothing to lose anyway.

Didn't even check, because + and - are still short circut. Can it be replaced by chip with similar, but not exactly same?

I've managed to remove this chip. I guess is some kind of motor bridge, but didn't find exacly same online. It's interesting that one of pins is missing, so I guess it's broken. Can it be replaced by chip with similar, but not exactly same? Corrosion ate it. I've checked connection to - and + on this pin and there are both.. It's not coinicdence I think.

You mean this LB... chip connectors? I'll re-solder it.

Has anyone attempted to fix powered up train board? Bought it occasinally but it comes out that batteries leaked and there was corrosion i didn't see. It worked for a moment, but never turned on again :/ When I connect it to lab power adapter it show short circuit. I've dissasembled it and cleaned the board, but didn't help. Some links (if you have anything) would be much appreciatedSome links (if you have anything) are much appriciated.

removed

Hybird plug in :D

I like, but only rechargable. I even started to think about charging station for trains, but it's long way to that.

That's right. I've even saw that already built here https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/18919/converting-4559-from-9v-to-powered-up But it takes one of accessories place

How did you solve controlling multiuple trains?

I've never even heard about it :D I'll check it out, but to be honest I'm plannig to covnert all my train sets to powered up add some sensors and do some programming. I'm not sure if circut cube can be part of that. But you just gave me idea to try to replace train motor with regullar one :)

I'm trying to fit battery box to it. Only idea I have saving shape of original model is to remove battery box base, which take precious space.