measyn

I only added them when I switched from 2s to 3s LiPo batteries, and the reason was a melted shaft on the back axle; the other parts were fine. Simply wash off the dust after every ride, and the plastic parts will perform just as well. I've redesigned the construction, making it more modular than ever. You can quickly replace every electric part and wash it under water.

Hello everyone! I've converted the original model for both BuWizz 3 and 2 versions. Redesigned the front and back suspension a bit. Because the L-motor or PF Servo are heavier than the Geekservo, and the BuWizz unit is lighter than the LiPo 3S battery. So the weight balance is roughly 50/50 now. I can't test it because I don't have the BuWizz 3, and my BuWizz 2 is very old and laggy. It would be great if someone could build it and share some thoughts and impressions. Powered UP Power Functions Also check this review in black color:

Will grab some ideas)

Hello! This ones https://aliexpress.ru/item/1005002950390290.html B type seems to be more grippy for me

By the way i found the name of technique that i used in suspension, it's called Slapper Arm They are used for bump stops, but in my case its just stiffer springs

This is a great opportunity for personalization, light bars, fire extinguisher, intercoolers in the back. I was constantly watching YT channel WingsWorld and fall in love with the stock look of real 90's white trucks, upgraded in the garage.

Yep, they're cheap and works surprisingly well, you can buy a ton of them. Didn't notice any difference with original. There are couple of vendors in Russia, but i printed this by myself. Maybe this models will help you, i'm doubting about size tolerance in cross-shaped holes (because of imperfection of printing). Circular holes are fine, i'm just processing them additionally with 4.8mm drill to remove little artifacts of printing. Bearings from hardware store, they are for router bits. But you can pick any, diameters are 9.5 and 4.8mm, heigh is 4mm. Frame and hubs model Just putting axles on the scales separately, while other just standing on the table. Sum of it gives exactly overall weight, so its right. Also 45-55% or 40-60% ratio is a sweet spot in real cars.

Its some kind of 32184 replacement. I personally use just with one-side bearing, it's enough for me. And also 5*7 frame Actually wheels fits very well, because i use some reinforcement with 4185 pulley. The only problem is RC tires, that constantly slips off. That's right answer: I tried to connect upper sides of them, but it adds unnecessary stiffness to suspension, maybe should use it in some cases instead of additional springs, but pressure is leaking fast. There will be a big lag of connection, it really should respond very fast to perform good cornering. Also bars just looks very realistic and cool

Thanks! Will see, my next goal is I-beam front suspension

Thanks! I saw your creations, great power/weight ratio design. It was a big temptation to copy the chassis. Yes it was a long journey, maybe a year of experiments. I wanted to pack as complex suspension as i could with 75-78mm wheels. But one day it finally drove at full speed over bumps, like a lizard running through water. Also didn't want to use any rubbers, they tend to loose with time. Thans! Yes, i did a ton of experiments, detaching sway bars, pneumocylinders. With sway bars car tends to do a fancy slide while cornering, and without them to roll over. Two moments in a video when car flips over, and almost did it again was in moment when i loose one of the links to sway bar in front.

Ah, another lego trophy truck... But in this case I tried to make the suspension as efficient as possible. Suspension Firstly, the motors are mounted not on the rear arms, but inside the body, to make the rear axle as light and responsive as possible. The rear suspension is a four-link axle. Front with double wishbone. Classic. Both front and rear have 2 springs for different stiffnesses. One spring is weak and always works. The second one works when the suspension is lowered 1/3. Pneumatic cylinders are also connected to the second spring to dampen suspension vibrations. At the end there are rubber bumpers. There are sway bars on both axles. The suspension is well tuned to the specific weight of the model and is approximately in the middle of its operating range when at rest. All this makes the suspension very responsive on small obstacles such as rocks, grass, sand. And at the same time, the car does not spring and sway when falling and in large holes, constantly keeping all wheels in contact with the surface. The model is very fun to drive on difficult surfaces, handles pleasantly and predictably. Specs The weight of the model is 1150 grams, weight distribution: on the front axle 550, on the rear 600. The model drives with two buggy motors, steering using a geekservo. Powered by a 3s lipo battery and custom electrics with radio control. Additionally, the rear axle uses a custom frame printed on a 3D printer with bearings to reduce wear on parts. The hubs are also 3D printed with bearings. Actually, when using a 2s battery and lowering the main gear, regular plastic parts work just fine. For some time. The body of the model is made conventionally, some basic Ford-like truck. The model can be modified by you to use buwizz, you just need to lengthen the chassis for the steering motor. You will get a longer car, such as a Silverado Prerunner, Toyota Tundra or F150. Download instruction Studio file bricksafe