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So this is how it moves :)

When I started the build it was way smaller. I needed to put a hub into the main boom to have a certain weight while it is fully erected and I tried to make the weight ratio of the main elements similar to the real one ( worked only when I built it and felt it) - you can see the main boom fixation is not in the center of the turntable like he original due to I needed more front weight. Now I would not need the actuators really but they are there, and the link between the the drives is just a 0.6 multiplier. Cable motor position = 0.6 x actuator motor position based on measurement. The actuator always has exact position but the cable diameter on the winch might not - but the boom handles bending well - that is why the actuator position is the base of everything in my program. The first grooved wheel after the winch can move axially so with it the winching is accurate and repeatable any time. Same with the ballast lift, main boom cable between main and derrick boom - this needed too for tilting the derrick boom while the main boom stays still -> this one took me hours to measure, because it depends on the angle of the main boom (measured with 0.02 accuracy) and the angle of the derrick too (motor position) so the equation is something like x=y*constant + 'other constant'. I used linear equations instead of second or third order.

Thanks! The program of mine is way complex to program it with powrered up. But everything is original lego, and you can install the pybricks firmware on the hub! The main problem with lego app is that it runs on your phone/tablet and the program is secondary compared to the operating system. When I got a low battery notification the lego program has stopped. With pybricks the codes run on the hub itself so you can run extremely complex stuffs on it. I needed the actuator to keep the cable tense in order to have proper winching. On the other hand it gives me more stability because at a certain tilting of structure to back would mean collapse.

This is how the real crane works. I built it as 12500 with double wide main boom. Programmed in Pybricks, controlled by xbox controller. When the derrick boom moves, the ballast, the cable of derrick boom, the actuators, and the main boom cable moves as well. All in sync based on angle of the two booms . When I turn on the balancing, after 0,05deg difference from flat of the superstructure, the derrick boom moves until the tiling gets 0. Tyis can be automatic or triggered.

The 3 unit long frictionless pin is the hardest to dismount. I built an LR12500, its big and heavy, and it would just fall to one side intead of breaking. The larger the lego set, or a real crane and the larger the lifting weight the more you have to ensure you start lifiting exactly above the center of gravity, unless you will have problem. Which is not easy at all with a Lego because the stuffs you lift is not designed to precise lifting. Same with the turntable speed. Regarding adjustable weight: the crane does it by changing the radius of ballast (tilting the secondary Derrick boom) plus the bearing of turntable can handle hundreds of tons without tilting more than 1-2 deg. You cant do it with lego. I put 2mm thick plastic ring into the groove of the lego bearing, reinforced the whole connection, and it got just a bit better. That is the reason why the original set has support legs.

I've been building this LR 12500 version for a month now, comes with V-frame or floating derrick ballast. Superstructure ballast is missing but comes soon. I'll cover the ballast's cable with a 3D printed hidraulic cylinder like something to hide it and make it look like the real. Im planning to extend the main boom and the luffing jib as well, maybe the derrick boom as well but firtst lets see how the balancing works with the current weight situation. 4 hubs, 12 motors (7 on top, 5 on bottom) and one tilt sensor. Control with Xbox controller using Pybricks firmware. I've been still thinking how to improve the turntable. It is so annoying. So far my idea for tilting is to put an ABS ring shaped sheet into the top goove to give enought tension to the assembly and if I choose the right sheet thickness then it should not be able to tilt at all. Reagrding the gear drive.. With the mentioned upgrade of mine it is still too fast, or the motor cannot handle the slow speed smoothly. I use now pybricks firmware which comes with a very agressive PID settings so my large crane with max 100deg speed (1150 deg/s is the max) it is still fast and due to the aggressive PID it lags. The only way to make it even slower is to change the motor position, and redesign it completely. I managed to make it 3-5 times slower but had to use tons of gears and the play of them was so large even the direction change took seconds plus one side drive only so you can imagine extra plays as well:D The best way is to use 3 step of gears only to avoid the play but use the available largest gear ratio. If you wanna eleminate all the plays, extra, thin sleeves must be put around the axles.

I've been building this LR 12500 version for a month now, comes with V-frame or floating derrick ballast. Superstructure ballast is missing but comes soon. I'll cover the ballast's cable with a 3D printed hidraulic cylinder like something to hide it and make it look like the real. Im planning to extend the main boom and the luffing jib as well, maybe the derrick boom as well but firtst lets see how the balancing works with the current weight situation. 4 hubs, 12 motors (7 on top, 5 on bottom) and one tilt sensor. Control with Xbox controller using Pybricks firmware. You already have the instruction: I repeated the two drives assembly steps because I bought two sets of crane. The cable can be routed through the track housing. It runs soo smooth and the crane become so enjoyable, even with this double sized heavy monster (see my post above)

Hello All, If you want to control your crane with an XBOX controller, then check this one below, what my program can do! This is what Lego should have been offered as default. Requires pybrick firmwares on technic hubs and xbox wireless controller. Enjoy the play! The program features: Graphic user manual full analogue control of all drives, one or two stick tank control of tracks, end position stop of booms and hoist (when calibration is done), weight overload warning 5 speed and acceleration (independet for bottom and top drives) profiles 7 different control profiles user manual: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1yNPlUU21MBLIsvtXWUudXyAViKVK9qEf/view?usp=sharing more info, pybricks program: https://github.com/orgs/pybricks/discussions/1866 other: I just made the tracks 4 wheel driven! Runs smoothly on soft rugs as well! See more: https://github.com/orgs/pybricks/discussions/1867

Hi everyone. I just finished my version of LR13000. My goal was to have a working derrick boom with floating ballast. Total 10 motors, 3 hubs, both track has two drives, turntable motor is now belongs to the top structure. I started with the fullest design but it was way too tall for my apartement (210cm). So I have reduced the jib by two elements and the main boom by one. Unfortunately the whole boom is light so having bigger spanner holder ?boom? or whatewere the name of what the cylinders hold is not possible in order to keep the boom's center of gravity in front of the superstructure connection. What is more than two sets: few 2L nad 8L axles, few bushings and the four cylinder (there are two at the A frame of derrick boom tilt control) Now comes the programing, two tilt sensor required for the derrick and main boom then the balancing is going to be automatic and will be playable (nut sure how much fun it will be as it is very sensitive and complex). Details - the cylinders are only for visuals. Here is the max size:

Hi everyone. I just finished my version of LR13000. My goal was to have a working derrick boom with floating ballast. Total 10 motors, 3 hubs, both track has two drives, turntable motor is now belongs to the top structure. I started with the fullest design but it was way too tall for my apartement (210cm). So I have reduced the jib by two elements and the main boom by one. Unfortunately the whole boom is light so having bigger spanner holder ?boom? or whatewere the name of what the cylinders hold is not possible in order to keep the boom's center of gravity in front of the superstructure connection. What is more than two sets: few 2L nad 8L axles, few bushings and the four cylinder (there are two at the A frame of derrick boom tilt control) Now comes the programing, two tilt sensor required for the derrick and main boom then the balancing is going to be automatic and will be playable (nut sure how much fun it will be as it is very sensitive and complex). Details - the cylinders are only for visuals. Here is the max size:

thats my plan, with automatic selfbalancing :) I wanna finish first the original's programming then comes the new desing. Im trying to relay only on two sets, max 5-10 other parts only. Will share the design and progress, hopefully as MOC indeed, I messed it up. But I assembled it without any problem so I dont knwo where I used the longer ones :D

Hi all, I have decreased the play of the turntable today together with the turntable gear ratio update. Originaly it was 1/35. Now it is 1/63. For decreasing the play you will need 2pcs of 4L axle. Ratio change: 1pc 8T gear and 2pcs 24T gears. 2nd: gear update with 25years old parts :D And here is where LEGO failed. 3L axle was used insted of 4L, see how big is the play 3: change the brown 3L axles to 4L (you can see the black axle sitting in the yellow link) 4: Elemination of top side play due to way too big clearance Solution: 4-5 layer duct tape each side: These steps reduced the total play of turntable by 50%.

Hi all, I have decreased the play of the turntable today together with the turntable gear ratio update. Originaly it was 1/35. Now it is 1/63. For decreasing the play you will need 2pcs of 4L axle. Ratio change: 1pc 8T gear and 2pcs 24T gears. 2nd: gear update with 25years old parts :D And here is where LEGO failed. 3L axle was used insted of 4L, see how big is the play 3: change the brown 3L axles to 4L (you can see the black axle sitting in the yellow link) 4: Elemination of top side play due to way too big clearance Solution: 4-5 layer duct tape each side: These steps reduced the total play of turntable by 50%.

OS independent. You will have to do the programing based on a written guide with full of pictures and megasized picture about the whole program segment.

V0 of custom control in powered up is finished 98% and it took around 100h. It is optimized and nothing runs if not necessary (funny how easy to overload the ipad powered up and getting ticking movements only). Its gonna be available after a real programing expert checked and other optimization is done so after version 1 or 2 (in few weeks max) This is the GUI of it 0: Track control (tank like where x max or min means opposite 100% power driven tracks) 2: Turntable 3: Boom control (same layout like the ctrl+, but smooth as possible compared to control+ so stick at 5H50MIN end position is not full gas of main boom but around 10% and full gas of jib) 5: Lifiting cable 6: Plays sound when calibration done 9: Calibration start (end position search) 91: Turns 1 when calibration done. When it is done all six drive is unlocked and free to play. Booms and lifting cable only works between the working range. 93: Booms and lifting cable go back to the position where the crane was turned on after calibration is done. 99: Free play - lets you without calibration and without range control of cables. 20: Press when turntable is paralell with the tracks. This unlocks higher load limit.After pressing it gives you 20% more load limit when the turntable is at 0 or 180degrees, and goes down to original when it reaches 90 or 270 so the load and the limit becomes turntable rotation dependent. The footprint of the the track is not a square but a rectangle. Works exactly like in the control+ after this calibration. 21: Actual load in % 22: Play sound while overload constantly until load goes below than 100%. The programming description will gives you instruction how to change the sticks to slidebars. Programming the range control and calibration would be optional but highly recommended if stick control is chosen because it is really hard to move your fingers only along the X or Y axis while the other remains 0. It will gives you instruction how to measure the cable length while creating the calibration sequence and while you try it first you have to measure the max rotation of each drives with full winching. Optionally I can give you instructions how to change the tank like control to match it with the real life like so xmin or xmax means 50% of power and opposite rotation of tracks. Next is to eleminate those ranges where the drives are not strong enough to drive the turntable and especially the tracks so doing some kind of saturation of the sticks/sliders.