Shuzbut

Thanks for your encouragement. I needed headlights that were between 2 and 3 studs round. It was between these and the larger wheelchair wheels.

They are 62.4 front tyres (32019) but I removed the tyre holding grooves from each side of 43.2 X 26 wheels (56908) and then removed material from each edge of the 4 cross ribs to let the tyre bead sit evenly against the wheel. The wheels end up being about 20mm wide and the tyres aren't stretched. It is definitely an 'illegal' move though. The car can be made with 32020 or 86652 on the front, I just didn't want to. :)

My fave bit of the exhaust is the spark arrestors made from palm trees. A red stradale would look very smart and should be possible, I think. I liked the mods you did to the Panigale and a red Lancia on the shelf next to that would be a good start to a cool collection of red Italian vehicles... Thanks for the video link. I could never afford even a replica or restomod. A Lego car is as close as I'll ever get!

Thanks for the encouraging words and suggestion! I'm away from home but will have a go at a video when I get back in the new year. Thank you. For suspensions where the spring and damper are separate, the telescoping friction dampers seem to be a good fit. They look similar and have long travel so I could mount them at the bottom of the hub, similar to the actual car. I found using a hard spring is best to overcome the friction they add as well as for reducing static sag.

Scale is between 1:10 and 1:9.5. Features: * Working engine & supercharger. * 5 + R gearbox with realistic H-pattern shift. Based on design by rudivdk. * Working handbrake. It pushes a rubber block against gearbox output. * Working steering and suspension. Unequal suspension control arms increase camber when compressing. * All panels & hatches open: Front access panel, front body, roof vent, doors, engine bay. * Positive caster on front wheels. *Race seats and 4-point harnesses. Each harness belt can be unclipped individually. * Pedals can be pushed and spring back. * Fits full size spare wheel in front. Faults: * Gearbox is too big. I wanted to use this design but it does make the engine too high and causes a hole in cabin floor. It also makes the transmission tunnel too high. * Supercharger is too big. I wanted to use 45590 for supercharger rotors but they are a bit wider than 2 studs when installed so the housing has to be big. * Front wheels are modified. I wanted bigger rear wheels than front wheels like on the real car. This seemed the best way to do it. I could have used 32020 or 86652, but I wanted the wheel centres to look the same. I often change things after they are 'finished', so I am waiting a bit before I add stickers in case I want to change something. This is the first topic I have started on EB, so thank you for taking time to look at this post!

I think there is one other difference between the 2 groups. Because the newer clutch gears are double-sided, there is a small difference in how far the driving ring can insert into the gear. I think a one-sided (old) clutch gear has about 4mm depth for the driving ring and the double-sided (new) has about 3.2mm. those numbers aren't accurate though. If you removed part of the guiding ribs from the inside of an old 2L driving ring so it would engage with a newer clutch gear, you might be able to use manual selectors, but the driving ring couldn't go deep enough to allow an orange selector gear to rotate smoothly.

@LegoHoops (or anyone else) is there any chance you'd be willing to explain how to get the fork apart to install the 22961 (Axle and Pin Connector Hub with 1 Axle)? I can get the top cap off but I couldn't see if the best way was to remove the slider from the upper stanchion or to get the axle holder off the end of the slider. The slider appears to have a spline on the end of it and then some sort of node on the end that's pressed through the axle holder? I'm clumsy and I would break it if I tried to figure it out myself. Apologies if this is not the right place to ask! Thanks.

I recently got one of these cheap and didn't like it at first, but when I saw what others have done on this thread, I thought I would try and change mine. Credit to @steph77 for the wheel arches and some of the bodywork change. Apart from that, the thing I wanted to change the most was the bonnet. I didn't like the big gap. I also moved the doors back 1. This means the doors latch on the bodywork, which I like. Modifications: - 8-N-R gearbox - that is @Anto design, modified a little to fit the space - 4 wheel drive - dampers offset to retain original suspension leverage ratio. That was not the best approach, I think. - Working steering wheel - Full roll cage - Bodywork changes - Different seats + 5-point harness belts and anchorages - HOG steering removed - It is less fun to push around with geared drivetrain and extra weight.

Sorry to post on an old thread. I'm just getting into modifying lego technic. This is my first attempt. I changed from truck and pig trailer to a prime mover and semi-trailer because that's what is used for car transport where I'm from. I made it triaxle to fill the gap but it probably should just be a tandem axle group on the trailer. I dropped both decks by one stud (cars still fit). The ramps all still work. My son is into the original transformers cartoons and he thought the prime mover looked a bit like Optimus Prime, so for fun we made it look a bit more like Optimus Prime. I wanted to try building a bridge so I made it big enough for this model. I should have used a different colour to contrast but I mainly had red liftarms.