Mr Jos

Simply lovely! Well made and nice video.

If you sell with battery included, you will need to have a charger with balancer as well.. As not everyone has a LiPo charger. And have good disclaimers to prevent wrong use of the battery's, to prevent claims if they catch fire or whatever. LiPo's are fun, but dangerous. Certainly if they will be external (unprotected) and someone uses it in a fast racing car and crashes it. Some Lego part piercing a cell is insta melted Lego + ... I guess best option would be just the RX module, and have a TX+RX in one set but no battery included. Unless the LiPo's are hardcase, then the risk is significant lower to pierce it, but still a charger+balancer is needed. @OP: Very nice RX module you have made with a lot of cool tricks so use fewer top ports. Love the 54th attempt :D

The ball at 58seconds is just a not well done calibration. If you pause at every time it drops on that pole, it's to the rightside. Better calibration/program would get it right everytime. The second video is a bad 'robotics' example. It's using remote controls only, no programming. If the encoders don't allow smooth operation, I'ld like you to comment/find something in the video I posted in my previous comment from 18December. My robot arm has in joint 1; 13gears. Joint2; 34gears! Joint3; 16gears. Joint4; 18gears. Joint5; 13gears. Joint6; 9gears. It's picking and placing pallets all day on different locations with 6 motors and 100+ gears having to move exactly perfect together. I think the Lego platform is perfect to learn/play/test robotics and how to perfect them. The limit is the capability of the builder.

I do like to counter this, the Lego motors are able to do accurate mechanical movements. Even with large gear trains, as can be seen in this video. The robot arm is stacked with gears all in row, able to perform pick&place jobs time after time. The highbay stacker crane has a positioning margin of 1mm on a drive length of 500mm whilst also moving vertical 400mm +. And the speed is still high (in my opinion), the accuracy doesn't come from gearing down to snail speed. The internal encoders from the Lego motors are good enough to perform these tasks for hours on end during events.

I got a bit of advanced machinery on my channel. https://www.youtube.com/@profjos/videos Using mostly EV3 and pairing it with Anton Mindstorms material to make a GUI (Graphical User Interface) All programmed with MicroPython.

Nice prototypes already. The mechanism to make these kind of movements is a cool one. I made this telescopic fork, for a high bay warehouse crane. As it has to move in 2 directions, it's a bit bulky, and it needs to support a big weight. When you flip it 90° it could become a door.

Very nice model with a lot of functions. Good to see you had some inspiration from my model, which you credited, thanks! You managed to make it a lot smaller which is good for these scale models. Mine has been running with 5 valves for 3 event days (8hours each) now, and has broken 2x total.(chain opened up as something got stuck in the selecting of a valve). Really like these Lego pneumatic MOC's.

And a little update, didn't have to much free time this week. But I got the front + rear axles finished in Studio + in real. Front axle has suspension + sideshift left+right (manual actuator) and can turn the wheels full 58°. Today I made the little red cover plate for the front axles. This is something that makes me go out of the comfort zone completely. Normally I only use technic parts, no plates/bricks/slopes/wedges/... A lot of time searching what's available to get the correct angles/dimensions. Next part probably the haulm topper that I'll design, then I got the complete front finished and can start going to the back with the chassis.

And the dual motor setup for the rearaxles is done already. It even allowed me to put the large angular motor for steering in between the axles. The pivot point works even much better now, as only the steering axle connects the two, and it's dead center. Pretty good compact for my liking with 3 of these large motors inside. And about those really small angular motors, to bad that they are so expensive, and not many available. I would've liked to use one for the front wheels steering. EDIT: Offroading test; Without weight it already stays nicely flat. Back to the 3D designing to reverse engineer this solution.

That's exactly my point, by needing 1 more link, it means the clutch gear pushes the links out of the teeth. My point was for driving these chains by a motor, if you use a clutch gear as idler wheel it will make an awfull noise from teeth jumping. I can know this, as I had no other way than use it in my chain conveyors in my big warehouse. It works, but it "clicks".

Very nice model! But looks like your pendular system used a large turntable, so not very good uprightening, or I'm missing where the shocks are. Depending on how it turns out later I'll keep it as it's now or go to a fixed 1 axle as you suggest. For now I'm only using 1 motor for drive and 1 angular for steering (with a 1:3 reduction between the two axles, to get the 11/32° steering). Front wheels will get a steering motor but no drive for now. Maybe I'll have to add a second drive motor as well, then I can remove the middle diff+axle (there's none on the real one anyway). Now that I'm typing that, maybe I'll change that even sooner.. About transporting material, I'll try yes. But I'll first need to understand the complete working of this machine. As this is the first machine I build, which I've never worked on, or seen myself, I'll need to get some explanation from my brother how it should work. (He works with these daily)

A staggered setup I found that works pretty decent. When both rearaxles got connected, I noticed my mistake from before. I don't need shocks for the second axis roll. The machine will always level it out. Just need a pivot point as in the 3D. I put a 10L axle through it so I can take off the wheels quickly for now from the chassis.

Ah I see now they used 16T clutch gears. Those do NOT work well with chains.. The ring touches the tracks/chain, and they skip the gears much more easily.

Yes they are the 6.5L hard springs (731c07), pretensioned at about 1/3 depth both. They nicely push back the frame upright. I bought some of the newer 9L red ones (79717) as well, but they are waaaay stronger.

Yeah thought so that shocks can't really go lower with these narrow widths. The top frame was a quick one now indeed, but it still needs another set of shocks and a frame to allow suspension in the length direction. I'll try tomorrow to make a compact extra frame. The steering motor is what I currently have, but I'll change it later with a much smaller motor with encoder, if I manage to buy 1. And I hope that the second package arrives Monday, that one has all 6 rims and front tires. I can then start making a complete frame. EDIT; And about the weight, the suspension has a liftarm in the middle that can support all the weigth, the shocks only push it back to center after going over rough terrain.

A first real build update. I made the rear suspension as I received the first of 2 BL orders I made Monday. I wanted to test the rigidity and independent suspension working + see how the motors perform. I don't really like that the platform sits so high already. I'ld like it to get lower, originally I even wanted to use the new bigger shocks, but they are way to long and stiff. The issue with trying to place the shocks lower is that they get in the way of the hubs. Driving and steering works fine, I used a Technic hub for the first time and programmed them with PyBricks online, it's very well documented!

So, as in all small Lego technic sets? Some current ones; 30433 Volvo wheel loader; worm+8T 30655 Forklift with pallet; worm+8T 42144 Material handler; worm+20T (cabin)

The software currently supported by Lego is classroom (Scratch based programming environment), I think that one can be put in French.

But can it drift?! Nicely made model anyway. Great front wheel turning range, as it should on a drift car.

Well designed project. If you could add the tail rotor that would be awesome.

Great, just let my self go as I'm sitting sick at home. Ordered the wheels, hubs, steering racks some frames and way to much more usefull things I won't need soon Now to wait for packages from Slovenia and Denmark, guess that counts as an early christmass or 'Sinterklaas'. The real front wheels are not connected to each other/a single motor. They both have their hydraulic motor inside the steering hub.

Thanks, learning a lot. Still much to modify for the axle, but trying to figure out if the turning angle of 32° for the back most wheels would work with the highlighted part? It looks very very close in studio, but I'ld like to wait placing a bricklink order untill I have more designed and can set a bigger order. For the front 2 wheels, they are direct driven by individual hydro motors in the real model, but by lack of them I'll either have to put geekservo motors, CADA motors, or any other small motors directly on the wheel to be able to get a !58°! steering angle. No hub would allow such an angle I think.

@1gor as you know a lot about these type of tires/hubs (others can of course help too); Which type of wheels hubs would be able to create these kind of turning angles? (I don't have many CV joints/hubs/tires yet, so can't test in real) The angles I put all 6 wheels at are the real maximal degrees. I have a feeling that the CV joints can not reach this amount of degrees.

The version I'll be making is set already, as I only received the design for that one (which my brother works on). A pretty impressive 6 wheeler. Unfortunatly the rear hubs are an even amount of studs apart from eachother. And as I've never made a vehicle, I'll need to look very good which hubs to use. But I'ld like to keep the real functionality as much as possible. All 6 wheels steering normal or crab. I don't know if I'll use linear actuators or just small servo's like geekservo connected to a LMS-ESP32. But this model is loaded! with hydraulic cylinders. To bad Lego pneumatics are not suitable to replace those for steering.

You looked what country I'm living at? EDIT: Seems I have 4 of those rims, also in yellow. But not any of the correct tires (I've got 94.3x38R). So I'll change my idea to scale 1:15 to fit the rear tires. Changing the frame to 124 studs long, 29studs wide, 33 studs high. [122mm / stud] Thanks for the help already @1gor!