Neophyte_brickie

I honestly don’t know, I don’t have access to the the other black technic links, but it’s a good thought and it should be possible to use Studio to answer that question. I agree with you, to an extent - the outer wall of the MB docking ring doesn’t look very true-to-life. If you could somehow cover every link tread with tiles rather than every second one it would be better. BUT there will always be compromises when it comes to creating something in Lego, it comes down to how much compromise you can accept. I like the MB design because it achieves a docking ring structure that (a) is close to perfectly round (I guess technically a 32 sided polygon, but I’m not going to sweat it); (b) has a continuous slope to the docking ring wall (ie is wider at the base than at the top, without needing to use a stepped construction); and (c) is structurally very stable. I’ve not seen any other solution presented that achieves all 3 of those aims. In doing so, it compromises heavily on accuracy of appearance, but then there’s something about the MB design that just looks very nice anyway (admittedly a subjective value judgement). Having said that, I think it just doesn’t look as good without the 4x4 round corner macaroni tiles, even though the inclusion of these is even more of a departure from the real thing and provides less flexibility in getting the internals to look accurate. So I think at the moment my preference is a sort of hybrid solution that uses the MB design with the macaroni tiles, and my modified design for the internals using the 3L bars, as appears in an earlier post of mine on this page.

Since you asked, @Vouatch: IMG_0316 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0688 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0694 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr I'm undecided. If possible I'd like to somehow hide the 1x1 round plates on the left and right edges. It does look very similar to the model, but without the macaroni tiles there is something unfinished about the overall appearance. Unfortunately it seems none of the 1x1 modified plates or tiles with clips are available in dark tan, so I would probably go with light bluish grey for those. Also, bucket handles in light bluish grey seem to be a rarity, and very expensive, so I'll probably have to leave those as dark tan.

If I understand you correctly, you are suggesting to omit the 4x4 round corner macaroni tiles? I had actually thought of that and even mocked up a version without those tiles a couple of weeks ago in Studio, but I didn't like the look of it. I might have another play, but I think the problem is that the edge of the docking ring ends up looking too discontinuous. The layer of macaroni tiles also gives the whole structure some height; the docking ring wall tends to look a bit shallow without them. Your second suggestion - do I have this right (building from bottom to top) - is to keep the 4x4 round corner plates as the base, then a single layer of 1x1 round plates around the circumference, then the 4x4 round corner macaroni tiles? I haven't tried it, but I think the problem with that is that you will lose the nice slope in the docking ring wall, since the diameter of the circle created by the macaroni tiles will be the same as the diameter of the circle created by the 4x4 round corner plates. This will produce uniform tension along the length of each link tread and the chain of link treads will sit completely perpendicular to the base. The genius of the original MB design is that there is a variation of tension along the length of the link tread elements - greatest where they contact the 4x4 round corner plates and less where they contact the 1x1 round plates, and that induces the ring of link treads to taper from the base of the structure toward the top. When I get time I hope to post an update with build instructions and a parts list.

So I'm trying to get as close as possible to 'the real thing' using the Marshal Banana design. Would be interested in your thoughts on these: I plan to change the bucket handles to light bluish grey, and the dark bluish grey 1 x1 plates with clip (holding the 3L bars / handlebars) to dark tan, but will need to purchase them in those colours. I'm leaning toward the version with the 3L bars - the straight lines and the fact they are recessed further into the docking ring gives a more accurate appearance imo. It occurs to me I could also swap out a couple of the light bluish grey 3 x 1 tiles around the outside of the docking ring for dark bluish grey. You can't see it in those photos but I've also incorporated some red accents, copied from @Frenk512's docking ring design, as posted by @ClassicLook:

The above solution also makes the top layer of 1x1 round plates unnecessary - they can be replaced with standard 2x1 plates if desired.

UPDATE - Marshal Banana Docking Ring improvement I feel rather stupid, but pleased to report that I've cracked it! I was so close before, but that unorthodox technique I came up with in my earlier post is entirely unnecessary - the MB Docking Ring can be achieved perfectly without the hose nozzles. The solution is to shift the chain of link treads down so that the upper 'rail' of the link treads sits adjacent to the middle layer (rather than the upper layer) of 1x1 round plates; in that way the lower rail of the link treads is level with the 4x4 round corner plates. This forces the chain of link treads into a perfect circle of exactly the right diameter. It's a tight fit, but the links hold - and by happy coincidence, the tension in the ring introduces a natural slope to the link treads - and this allows the 3x1 tiles to attach around the outside of the ring at pretty much the perfect angle. Despite the tension, the ring of link treads is in no danger of slipping - the ridges formed by stacking the 1x1 round plates hold it firmly in place. Furthermore, the gap that was there previously between the base of the link tread ring and the 10x10 inverted dish is eliminated. The photos below demonstrate the improved version. I'm finally completely happy with the overall construction, but may still further tweak the design of the docking ring internals. IMG_0632 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0630 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0633 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0619 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0636 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr IMG_0637 by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr

That is very quick work! I posted a query to Flickr user Flutdisq on their design, and they confirmed that they used BrickLink part no. bb0076 as the link, so you are spot on. I think you are right, there must be a layer of 2x3 plates under the tiles. I notice you reduced your design from 14 tiles around to 12; Flutdisq’s model has 13, but 12 already seems to have a lot of spare room around the internals - it seems like 13 would be too many but it looks right in Flutdisq’s photos?

Yes, that looks very close! It seems the outer ring should be 13 rather than 14 tiles around

Here's another take on the docking ring I came across on Flickr: Millennium Falcon (MKII) Reverse Engineered by Flutdisque, on Flickr I think it looks pretty amazing, although it seems to lack the sloping edge. The user who built it, Flutdisque, based the design on Marshal Banana's MF Mk II. In the comments under one of the photos they say they've used 'classic technic threadlinks' (?tread links), and in the photo description they refer to using 'classic technic linkchains to connect the 2x4 tiles'. Anyone have any thoughts about what part they are referring to and how this would work? Check out Flutdisque's Flickr for more photos:

Another potential idea as an alternative to the 2x2 modified plate with octagonal bar frame

The more I think about it, the more I think this is the way. Using the 2x2 modified plate with octagonal bar frame of @Vouatch's original design, and modified plates clipped to that, attached to more modified plates with clips that hold a length of rigid hose curved into an arc. That solution might also permit a bit of flexibility with respect to the height of the link tread ring relative to the rest of the structure, which could solve the issue of the gap between the base of the link treads and the inverted dish.

It appears we are mistaken, the 10x10 inverted dish does indeed exist in dark bluish grey - note there are two variants of this part, one with hollow studs and the other with solid studs. According to bricklink the solid stud variant is available in dark bluish grey (not the hollow stud variant though). Perhaps I will end up going down that path - I will need to do another bricklink order to get parts to modify the other docking ring, so maybe I'll get a couple of dbg 10x10 inverted dishes at that point, if they're not too expensive.

Yep, Studio is an excellent program but it has its limitations - I think this is one instance where you need to experiment with real bricks, as Studio won’t fully simulate the behaviour of the link treads in a realistic way (I like your analogy of a metal watch band - that’s very much what it’s like!) In regards to your question about the connection to the ship - I considered removing the tiles and having a connection as you describe, but that would lower the profile of the whole docking ring by 1 stud relative to the sides of the ship, which I thought might look a bit strange. I had noticed that MB’s design seems to have a second 10x10 inverted dish in dark bluish grey. I like that look, but thought it would be an expensive part (the lbg version certainly was) and I was looking to limit cost, so I didn’t even consider it. I didn’t realize the part doesn’t exist in dbg!

I had the same thought as I was writing up my post, but didn’t have access to any rigid hose that I could experiment with. I think it could work. It comes in a number of different lengths too.

Ok, so here goes - this is going to be a long post. I've further tweaked my Marshal Banana-inspired Docking Ring mod, and I've achieved a solution I'm satisfied with. I must reiterate though, this may not satisfy the purists, as it relies on a completely unorthodox technique - albeit using genuine Lego pieces. The essential problem is that the attachment between adjacent link treads is not tight - it is designed to allow frictionless rotation of the individual treads around the connection axis. A chain of link treads is therefore basically floppy - it won't hold any particular shape without bracing. So not only do the link treads need to be braced from the inside of the structure, that bracing has to provide stability to essentially every individual link tread (otherwise small lengths of the link tread chain remain floppy and sag inward), and it has to force the link tread structure into a circular conformation. @eddmont has shown that's more or less achievable with 31 link treads, but the solution sacrifices the symmetry of the original @marshal-banana design, losing the pattern of alternating 3x1 tiles around the outside of the link treads. The 32 link treads of the original design is just too saggy on the internal structure conceived by @Vouatch and realised by @eddmont. This is how my solution looks from the outside: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr As you can see it is achieved using 32 link treads and is nicely circular. The following photos reveal the internal structure: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr This assembly, with a base comprising 4 round corner 4x4 plates, attaches directly to the 10x10 inverted radar dish. The 8 columns of 1x1 round plates around the outside of the base (each composed of a stack of 3 round 1x1 plates) is critical to the overall construction - the profile of these creates a kind of track just the right distance from the centre of the construction in which the chained link treads can sit. The ring of 32 link treads is thus held in position by these round 1x1 plates. The following photo shows how the chain of link treads sits nicely up against these columns of round 1x1 plates: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr There is still a problem though. It becomes more noticeable once the 4x4 round corner wide macaroni tiles are added: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr There isn't enough support to the inside of the ring of link treads to prevent it sagging inward between the 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock positions. This is where I had to get a little unorthodox, and employ a lot of trial and error. You're going to need a bunch of these (hose nozzles) - 8 of them to be precise: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr If you've built the UCS Millennium Falcon you'll have a bunch of them left over; and even if you don't have enough, they are cheap as chips to buy. These are exactly the right size to wedge into the gaps on the inside of the ring of link treads, and force it to assume an almost perfectly circular conformation, as in the following photos: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr It's easier to get the hose nozzles into position if you temporarily remove the handlebars. You can use a small hobby screwdriver or similar to get them seated correctly (the space is far too tight for fingers, and you need to have the link tread ring in place first to hold them in, since there is no connection to other parts). If you get it right, the hose nozzles are held very firmly in place - there seems to be little risk that they will spontaneously come loose, and in turn they buttress the link tread ring very firmly - there is no appreciable rotation of individual link treads. So the whole construction feels very stable, and it's very easy to then attach the 3x1 tiles around the outside. My only residual issue is that the link treads and attached 3x1 tiles sit a little higher than I would like: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr Notice the gap between the base of the link tread ring and the 10 x 10 inverted radar dish. That's me being pedantic though - I can certainly live with it. As @eddmont has pointed out, the base to which the docking ring assembly is attached needs some slight modification: Untitled by Robert O'Sullivan, on Flickr This amounts to swapping the position of the 4 modified 1x1 brick with clip and the attached dark bluish grey 1x1 plate - such that the 1x1 plate moves from above the 1x1 modified brick to below it. You can use a standard 2x2 brick to attach the docking ring structure to the base (I've used two 2x1 bricks in the photo). For those interested, here is a link to instructions (created in Stud.io) for the docking ring, which includes a parts manifest: https://www.dropbox.com/s/h93bm22umaa7sq5/MFDockingRingMBinspired.pdf?dl=0 Please note the instructions do not include the 8 hose nozzles and the 16 3x1 light bluish grey tiles. I've ended up slightly modifying the surface layer of the inside of the docking ring along the lines of @Vouatch's latest iteration, but this is all a matter of aesthetics; obviously you can play with the colours as well. I'd be very interested to know if anyone comes up with improvements to my design, particularly if anyone comes up with a solution using only legal building techniques.

Yes, absolutely, I just need some time to sit down with it again, take it apart, take more photos etc. I think the design still needs some tweaking and I’ll be interested to see if the users on this forum have any ideas.

Well, my brick shipments finally arrived and last night I got busy building. Behold: a Marshal Banana style docking ring with the correct number of link treads! I have to confess, this relies heavily on some illegal techniques. I'm pretty busy for the next few days but after that will post some more detailed pics to show what I did, and some instructions.

A little sneak peak (Studio render - minus the 3x1 tiles around the outside) while I await my brick shipments. Looks the same on the outside, but differences are under the hood!

My design doesn’t use the 2x2 modified plate with bar. I think it will work, but need to build it with real bricks!

Re: Marshal Banana's docking ring custom mod That's disappointing that the 'correct' number of link treads is one too many. Curious that it seems to be just right in Studio. There's got to be a solution, right?! I've modified @Vouatch's design to incorporate the idea of using an 8x8 round plate; it seems to work in Studio. I've done a Bricklink order, so will post again with the final result - see if it eliminates 'the sag'! Will be happy to share if it works. edit: I mean the 4 round corner 4 x 4 plates that come together to form the equivalent of an 8 x 8 round plate. They form part of the original docking ring construction.

Well, this is an unexpected development! Dammit, I can feel more mods coming on for my Falcon.

Finally got some proper back seats for The Princess and Goldenrod! Made a rookie error when I originally searched BrickLink for these - didn’t think to look for variants of 4079 - no shortage of part no. 4079b in tan! Rear seats Rear seats Perfect fit!

I think you are correct, there should be room for proper seats, but as I said in my post, the last time I checked BrickLink I couldn’t find any for sale in light tan in any of the stores in my country - overseas postage would have been ridiculous, so I settled for the light tan 2x2 plates.

Are you referring to the cockpit mod I posted pics of? If you scroll back through this topic you will notice that the mod was designed by @Lock. He has a webpage where he has catalogued all his mods of the UCS MF, and you can download them as LDD files. The LDD files can be imported into Stud.io and from there you can pull them apart to see how they're constructed. The website link is upthread on this page, several posts back.

Here it is: Looks a lot better than the original cockpit, imo. I wanted to add proper seats for the passengers but they are very hard to come by in light tan where I live - so the 2x2 light tan plates will have to do.