Tatrovak

I'm glad, I appreciate the opportunity to discuss with you. One thing is steering, the other is power transmission, and that, for me, is the weakness of the four-pin mounting of the rigid axle, because it is necessary to use at least two CV joints on the drive shaft, plus some telescopic element, and these are, in my opinion, serious weaknesses of the drive system (of course as long as we are talking about heavy models, and for an idea, this GAZ is still light by my standards). Again, these are the conclusions I came to when building my models, and I admit that rigid axles are not my comfort zone and I will try to experiment more, because, for example, exactly as you write, placing the servomotor on the axle requires a large hole in the frame, even when specifically in the case of my GAZ, the problem is rather that the buwizz has to be higher so that the servomotor has somewhere to move when the axle is sprung, and this limits the interior of the cabin, which doesn't completely correspond to the original (the engine compartment cover is too big). And to complete the idea about power transmission, with an axle with a ball joint, only one CV joint is enough (of course, we do not count the other two necessary if the axle is steered), it is additionally strengthened by the ball joint and can bear a greater load than a solo , and it is excluded that under load it will slide out of the axles where it is stored, and this is especially true if the axle does not have reduction gears in the wheels. Another thing is the larger space required by the arms of the four-pin suspension compared to the ball joint, both sides of which can be incorporated very well into the structure. And in short, it seems to me to be a very simple and effective solution which, if you set the geometry of the axle correctly, basically has no disadvantages compared to the four-pin suspension, since the bar for transverse stabilization is necessary in both cases. Not to talk nonsense, it is not visible on the technical drawings that are available on the Internet, but I always had the feeling when I looked at pictures and videos that the wheels of the front axle on the GAZ 66 had such a very decent negative deflection. It's really a shame, and I doubt that lego will ever bring an update of wheel hubs with planetary reduction, but it doesn't matter, I don't mind moving in gray zones that much.

Thank you for the compliment, I try to be authentic and use original solutions. I take the cutting as a kind of compromise between using only lego parts and creating my own on a 3D printer, although actually, regardless of the cutting, few of my creations are only 100 percent from lego parts, since I use Buwizz and I also use tires mostly from others manufacturers, since with the Lego ones it's a big misery, at least for me.

When I bought 8 pieces of these wheel hubs with a planetary reduction about three years ago, I immediately modified 4 pieces in this way, because from the first moment that those parts were introduced in set 42099, I knew that the parts that I cut off would interfere with the steered axles, and it doesn't matter if it's solid axles, Tatra axles (for which I primarily bought the wheel hubs) or double wishbone. On the other hand, so that I don't just complain about them except for this detail, these wheel hubs were, and still are, a miracle for me, and they moved, especially my folding to a higher level. And as I already mentioned here, I was not happy that I was going to cut into them (especially when I take into account that I paid 10 euros for one at the time, since it was a novelty at the time), but only the modification made them the part that I he wanted. Thanks for the compliment, I probably had the most trouble with the cabin. As for the construction of my front axle, you have to take into account that if you want to use your Toyota FJ40 as an example, first of all there is a huge weight difference between these two models, and regardless of that, I always try to include elements such as is to make the chassis as robust as possible, since I expect that the final model will not be light. This is also reflected in the steering, any attempt to move the servo motor outside the axle would inevitably increase the backlash in the steering, whether I would use a shaft with a cross joint and a telescopic element or a tie rod, especially when steering through a tie rod, then not only steering backlash is reflected in the steering itself, but also the clearance in the bearing of the entire axle, and the heavier the model, the worse it is. I also have doubts about whether the four-link suspension would work in my model, and even if it did, it would certainly not be more robust than what is there now. But I want to say that I hope that nothing I write here is offensive, because I value every advice, and I am very glad that I have someone here to discuss LEGO with. Overall, I think it's mainly about the fact that everyone has a different style of assembly and my front axle is a result of my experience and I'm satisfied with it, and for example the negative deflection of the wheels is a purpose not a consequence, because the real GAZ 66 also has a front axle slight negative deflection of the wheels.

The solution posted by 2GodBDGlory is interesting, I didn't think of anything like that, but as he said himself, the ground clearence restriction is too big. Thank you very much for the compliment Aleh, I tried for the most realistic design in combination with the best driving characteristics, as I always try.

I rather hope that LEGO will finally offer some more compact parts with which the wheel hubs with reductions could be attached to the axle, or I would be grateful for a version of them that would have pin holes instead of ball studs, but how do you say it they are just our wishes, because just yesterday I discovered a whole topic here in this Technic forum about wishes about parts.

But for handling the torque, those wheel hubs with a reduction are absolutely ideal, it has been confirmed to me many times that the use of wheel reductions is very important, especially for larger models, whether to reduce the stress on the drive train, the smoothness of the operation is better with them, and especially no other wheel hubs from LEGO do not have less wobble.

First of all, I thank the moderator for putting me on the front page, it's the first time for me and I really appreciate it. The stiffness of the axles is complicated, I don't pay much attention to this concept of rigid axles, I have always preferred independent suspension, especially the Tatra suspension concept (or better said my interpretation of the Tatra suspension concept, since it is quite difficult to imitate from Lego) or double trapezoidal suspension, but on this creation I was reminded of the advantages of solid axles. In any case, if I can advise, you need to take more care in connecting the halves of the axles together, I know it's a problem with the differential, which takes up a lot of space, which in combination with the fact that you definitely want, like me, to maintain the highest possible ground clearance, I don't know if that's understandable I explain, my English also has its reserves, but there is simply a weak center around the differential on your axles, if I understood correctly that bending of the axle, and the resulting unwanted positive deflection of the wheels, is the problem we are talking about here. If so, then another way I fight against it is that I place the lower arms with ball studs that hold the wheel hub not perpendicular to the wheel hub, but at an angle (the primary purpose of this solution is to improve the ground clearance of the axle) and not perpendicularly, which creates a negative deflection of the wheels which compensates for possible lateral bending of the axle itself. As for cutting the parts, that's something I don't like to do, but considering that I mostly try to stick to the width of the 21-hole model, just like in the case of this GAZ, I couldn't solve it otherwise, so I'm certainly not very happy that I have to use non-original tires or Buwizz, but unfortunately LEGO does not offer us in this area, in my opinion quite good products. And one more thing comes to my mind, in my opinion it is more advantageous to place the steering mechanism behind the transverse axis of the axle, not in front of it, regarding the approach angle and the final appearance. And if you want to make the front axle as small as possible, move the servo motor past it somewhere in the frame, if there is room for it, even though I don't really like this solution because of the clearance in the telescopic CV joints that you will have to use.

Here you go

I present to you my current creation, it is a model of the Russian, respectively (considering the time of creation) Soviet light truck with increased cross-country ability, GAZ 66. Specifically, it is a version with a K66V box body. My model is driven by 4 PF L Motors, one PF servomotor provides control, two PF LEDs are used for lighting, everything is powered by one buwizz 2. When building the chassis, I tried to stick to the originals, but there are a few differences, the axles are rigid and stored, as on unimogs, in ball studs and transversely they are established by tie rods. They are sprung with four hard shock absorbers. The differentials are only in the axles and are without locks. For several reasons, I used wheel hubs with planetary reducers. The cabin is foldable and can be simply completely dismantled. Buwizz, which is located under the cab, can be switched on without tilting the cab. The superstructure is attached to the chassis with four locking pins, so it can also be quickly dismantled.

Thank you too.

Thank you

I present to you my latest creation, it is a model of a wheeled infantry fighting vehicle, of Russian origin, BTR-90. The BTR-90 was first publicly presented in 1994 and is the successor of the BTR family in terms of concept and internal layout, but it is larger, significantly better armored and armed, and it is the first BTR that can already be called an infantry fighting vehicle and not only about armored transporter, although the BTR designation would suggest so (BTR = BroneTransporteR = armoured transporter). Like its predecessors, it is fully amphibious, among the many improvements I will mention a function that has always fascinated me on the BTR-90, apart from the classic steering by turning the wheels of the front axles, the BTR-90 is capable of skid steering when the wheels on each side of the vehicle rotate at a different speed, even against itself, which allows the vehicle to turn on the spot, it is unique in this respect, and it matches the maneuverability of tracked IFVs, which has always been a disadvantage of wheeled vehicles, especially when fighting in urban areas. Unfortunately, although I am sorry, I was not able to equip my model with this function, maybe next time. My model is powered by two Buwizz 2.0 which are located above the fourth axle, in front of them, between the third and fourth axle are two Buwizz RC motors which are used to drive the wheels and propellers. The drive of the propellers is detachable and is done through a toothed clutch which is controlled by one PF M motor, the breakwater tilting is controlled by another PF M motor, and these two are connected to one buwizz output and thus work simultaneously. When the breakwater is folded out, the drive of the propellers is switched on and the BTR is in cruise mode. Other functions: side door opening, turret rotation, cannon tilting, are each controlled by one PF M motor. The tilting of the grenade launcher is mechanically linked to the tilting of the cannon. Similar to my T-90A, there is also a driver's hatch, albeit manually, but remotely controlled, the controls are located on both sides of the body between the first and second axles.

A few more videos and photos.

Thank you, I was thinking about a functional cannon when building this tank, but among other things, it is a big problem to build a barrel so that it is passable and at the same time looks good, and in this scale it would probably be a problem to squeeze some firing mechanism into the tower.

Thank you :) it was important for me that the machine gun was remotely controlled like on a real T-90

Thank you :)

Thank you Milan, the tower was particularly challenging, but I am satisfied with the results. I've been thinking about building a tank with such tracks for a long time, since I never liked the ones from Lego, I just needed to find suitable wheels. I originally wanted to use rubber link tracks like Sariel on his GAZ 3351, but I couldn't find those parts in sufficient quantity in the bricklink stores where I normally shop. Thank you allanp, he has no movement problems, in that video Buwizzes is in normal mode so he can go even faster

Thank you.

Hello everyone. I present to you my next creation, it is a T-90A tank. The drive is provided by 6 PF L motors, 3 for each track, 4 are in the back part of the body where they drive the drive wheels and two are in the front part of the body where they drive the tension wheels. Between the front engines is a manually operated mechanism for opening the driver's hatch. Above the rear engines are two buwizzys that power all the functions of the body and the tower. The travel wheels are suspended on swinging arms and sprung with torsion bars. In the center of the hull is a shaft in which the pedestal with the rotating mechanism of the tower is located. It is secured in place by four locking pins that are inserted from the side through the body walls, which ensures quick disassembly and assembly of the tower into the body. The turret functions are: turret rotation, gun elevation, rotation and elevation of the remote controlled anti-aircraft gun , and are controlled by PF M motors, one each function.

Thank you MajklSpajkl, if you mean sliping of the tires against the discs, the they are glued together with melting glue. And if you think that the tires do not fit to desing side, then you are unfortunately right, but i have not been able to get anything better then that so far. These would rather be suitable for the 815-7 series.

A small update to my Tatra 813, now as a ISO 1C container carrier. For drive is now used six PF L motors instead of four as in the previous versions.

Than you too jorgeopesi, I am going to add more photos on my flickr soon, or you can see more photos from the topic on my home forum. These are photos of the older versions of my Tatra 148 but they had a chassis almost the same as this one. http://www.tatralug.sk/forum/index.php?topic=2382.0 https://www.flickr.com/photos/188258679@N02/

Thank you, hose is a uncut gasket to bicycle valve.

I present to you my Tatra 148 wood trasnport (I will call this topic only Tatra 148, because in future I may put here other versions of my Tatra 148 not only wood transport). The propulsion is provided by 4 PF L motors, steering by PF servomotor. Rotation of hand is provided by PF M motor placed between batteryboxes. Pneumatic functions are implemented via 2 6L pumps driven by PF M motor.

Thanks for the compliment and for watching my flickr (to which, by the way, I'm going to add more photos soon). In my opinion, the design of the real Bucciali is quite fascinating, so I composed it from LEGO and I am going to improve it further. You are right they are from the Ducati and dimensions disks are 75x15.8