Coal Fired Bricks

I built this tender for a B&A F2 Class 4-6-0 which I finished because of running issues I ended up scrapping the project. I wish I took photos. The F2 group consisted of twenty locomotives built by Schenectady in 1907 with 22x26 inch cylinders, 69-inch drivers, and 200 lbs. of boiler pressure. Some had the cylinder bore increased by one inch and were designated F-12 Class. I built this after Christmas because my B&A D1a 4-6-6t had running issues(cough caugh**vertical drive motor). Overall I am pretty happy with this model and I turned out well. Instead of using a flex tube, I used black coffee stirrers which are nearly the exact same size as flex tube and they are $2 for 300. This is a good runner and **Bonus** can run on R40. Boston and Albany Tender by Coal Fired Bricks, on Flickr Boston and Albany Tender by Coal Fired Bricks, on Flickr Boston and Albany Tender by Coal Fired Bricks, on Flickr For more pics head to my Flickr page https://www.flickr.com/photos/188099743@N07/with/49837782056/ -Coal Fired PS stay tuned for my next build and I may post some pics of older builds here and my Christmas layout.

That would be great. Do you think we should be able to use other people's pictures? That would be great so we aren't stuck with the same banner for the next 3 years, and we could see some different styles of banners. Was that big train ever in TRAIN TECH? -Coal Fired

I don't like to complain and yes, I know trains aren't the most popular topic but why did we get a bad update. On my computer, all of the lettering under the topic name is white so you can't even read it. And why did we get the new picture with "the dragon's den" what does it mean? And all of the other topics have pictures on top that are related to the topic, and why are we the only ones with white lettering? The only thing I like is. the page is highlighted with blue. Did anyone else get this update, and what are your thoughts. -Coal Fired PS I'm not complaining I'm pointing out everything I don't like.

I googled 'lego weathering' and yes I do see it on stickers and that looks great the only downside is if you did weather across the bottom of a rail car you would cover up all the individual bricks. -Coal Fired

I do see what you are saying. Once the act is done it can never be reversed(maybe paint thinner). And some models(details and electrics and square things) can look good. But because of TLG's small color selection and because it is hard to get natural shapes, this creates a sorta wacky post-apocalyptic looking train in my opinion. I think airbrushing may create a nice effect that can have natural shapes(look at the links in my first post) and also you can color half of a part or create streaking effects. And bonus there are thousands of colors that can be mixed together in infinite ways to create many different colors. Has anyone tried this? -Coal Fired

I have seen some nice weathered projects using brick-built techniques. A good example of brick build weathering. But I have found that sometimes there is no way to create a small weathering effect typical of trains from 1900-late 1930s or even and dirt/ rust streaking effects that don't look post-apocalyptic with zombies hanging out around them. I like weathering like this, link to model train weathering, which has little rust and looks more used than new but it doesn't look like it was in a zombie war zone. More examples For the friends across the pond and a Few examples with rolling stock. So I thought why can't we just weather like this, with an airbrush or pastels. Well, I tried some 'naughty for a purist' weather with some charcoal(chalkboard black and some antique white to make a nice grey similar to dark bley. I painted it to some slopes with a paintbrush in two coats. Then I let it dry for 2ish hours until the fun began. I wanted some streaking effects(not really because I only had one color) so I sanded with a 600grit piece of sandpaper in one direction. But the result wasn't what was hoped, the part simply looked like an off bley. Overall I think it would look better if a loco/rolling stock or a test wall was airbrushed(some model trains are plastic so it should look good) just to see what would happen. Has anyone tried painting or airbrushing their models to get a better look? Please post your experiences, comments, questions, and purists your rage because someone painted a lego brick! And please post some pics if anyone has done some brick-built or airbrushed weathering. -Coal Fired P.S. soon I will post my new build and a few older ones sometime next month.

That cat had a night. It was just resting after a hard day while waiting for the train and almost got hit while crossing the tracks.

Yes, I know this is not 'train' related but when I was looking around of Flickr I saw a lot of builders have cats (**Caugh Caugh Cale, Raised, etc**) and I saw none with dog photos. Are we all cat people? I am a dog owner, am I a rarity in this hobby? Please answer this question for all are you a cat, dog, or something else person. So post your pets with your bricks and answer this question for all. SHOW ME THE PETS(money) -Coal Fired PS am I crazy for asking this?

What about SLA? I do it for 1500 if you throw in a few switches and ballast it all.

I agree with @Henry 991, the tolerances needed for track and wheels is important, even when printing my NYC Niagara XXL(ish not tested for size) there was a lot of sanding needed to the pin and axel hole. I ended up drilling through the pinhole to get the right size which is a delicate operation and I drilled halfway through the axel whole for less friction. I do believe SLA printing might be our future though the brittle parts maybe SLA's downfall for drivers and side rods, other things my work such as handrails, lights/lamps, maybe track( no moving parts), and TLG parts that are getting super expensive on BL. For your color concerns maybe you could airbrush your parts because of the huge range of colors, but I haven't tried that yet, I have only used spray paint which for black wheels works great with a dull coat. Still, library/public FDM might be a good option for people just getting into the hobby looking at price tags for custom wheelsets from Shupp ($44 for 6 wheels is not cheap for 3d printed stuff) and $120 for BT/BTD/TRIX R120 may scare some people away. If we could get more people into the hobby because they can get low-quality tracks/wheels/etc for free I think that is good and will grow our community. And eventually, these people might end up buying an R104 switch or buy a higher quality product because they want something better to suit their models of high quality/standards and may lead to more willing customers for BBB/Trix/BT/Shupp/etc. I think free low-quality prints are better than nothing. And I think BBB/Trix/BT/Shupp/etc. are great, highly developed products that have near-perfect tolerances are fantastic and I would buy them if I wasn't a college kid with a student loan. I believe I we are to print tract the connections should be like ME models' loose so they can be glued and the track should be able to print separately so there is little need for supports (only for FDM not for SLA). Or the models should be completely broken up, for example, a pin should be broken in half do there is no overhang. Overall if you want to get into this hobby then go free to see if you like it, but when you want more products that are tested and fit with TLG part go 3rd party. Do any of you agree with this or am I crazy. Coal Fired P.S. I don't want to buy an SLA only because of the small build volume.

I know this hobby has been greatly influenced by 3d printed parts, from side rods to track even our wheels have been 3d printed. I have been looking around for a solution to 3d printed stuff and I have seen the $300-$500 SLA printers that retrieve fantastic detail, though I found out that now most local libraries have 3d printers, some being top of the line, printing parts for little to no cost to us. Also, I have learned THINGAVERCE has some great lego compatible options for preexisting files. Encluding r56, 72, 88, 104, and even 120 track even some of the in-between. Also cross tracks, switches, etc. are also available for free. So I suggest call some library and ask if you can use their 3d printer. If there is a course to use it, then take it because nothing can beat high-quality 3d prints for free. I was just about to start an NYC Niagra then the Corona happened so I don't have all of my wheels from my library printer. I am hoping libraries will open back up soon. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2799569- r120 track. The designer also makes 9v r120 and PF/PU r104 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3936354- Some smaller curves I have not printed any of the above files so I am not sure if the geometry works out. Yes I know trixbrix and bricktracks you are probably mad. But there are downsides, most libraries only let you print while they are open meaning you can only print a few pieces at a time with high quality(which may take a looooong time) or you will have to go for volume with low quality. Also some designs are not tested or lower quality and it is not fun when a librarian gives you the stick eye because you have been printing 1/8 r120 circle every day for the past week(has not happened....yet). And lastly, TLG has taken down many designs for some reason. Overall if you see no reason to spend on $150 high radius curves just to try them or if your wife hates you for buying $1000 of r120 curves from Bricktracks try this see what happens maybe you want to have higher quality. Or if you are like me and don't want to spend big bucks on injection molded or highly developed tracks and just want something cheap and easy for your display, even if it's not perfect, try this. Still, I would rather get injection-molded tracks of BT and the vast selection of Trix, but this is still a pretty sweet deal. I may post some Xl and XXL drivers and r88, 104, and 120 me models like track on Thingiverse. Feel free to comment or share your experiences. -Coal Fired

Thanks for the feedback, it will definitely help. May post some pics soon in a new topic. Coal Fired

I've been building a Boston and Albany 4-6-6t and have done the firebox, cab, and the coal/water bunker. Though I haven't found anything round(ish) looking for a 6(ish)stud diameter boiler. Ideas, pics, suggestions wanted. Thank You -Coal-Fired