mudseason

Hello everyone. I would like to modify a RWD lego racing car (1:8) with the addition of a power block (2 motors) driving the front axle. Front axle will be provided with a differential. Real axle also has its own differential. I have the following quite basic question. Would the system work if the rear power block and the front one are not connected at all? The two power blocks are geared up identical, of course, nevertheless I fear that one axle would push the other one to scratch due to small velocity/torque differences if not connected. Then I see lots of IWD vehicles which is even a further extremization of the concept. Thanks a lot for any indication. Cheers.

I understand, suspensions do not add anything functional at this scale for the type of car. I figured out the min. width I can achieve (still with a fake piece: I would cut and glue two CV joints) is 21 studs, 25 with all original pieces. This means that such decision will force myself into modding the external rear part, and this will be a fun exercise. Motor placement is already decided by the instructions. If it won't work I will just revert to the original mod (the motorized version is already a mod) with fixed axles and enjoy it as it is. Thanks to all, I will let you know the result.

I really see your point and I appreciate your availability. Regarding how to properly install the CV joints, you assume I have no idea, however I have some, (at least for simply suspensions schema). I knew the U-joint placed like that was sort of "hack" with little-no hope to work. The schema I have in mind is similar to the 42096 model and to the 42099 one: I just built the Efferman's mod, it's Efferman's fault if, after 30+ years, I'm starting putting bricks together again . Coming back to this new build, I have issues with the total width as I would like to maintain some proportion in the model: +2 studs per side are ok, +3 are a bit on the edge. +4 is a no. I checked a lot of posts of the TC18 family, they are very informative in fact for the front I found an amazing solution by one of the forum users. His solution for the rear axle (floating differential) did not convinced me 100% I need also to fit the electric part and motors, thus I would prefer something fixed, at the expenses of increasing the total width a bit. About putting down the digital designer I also agree with you, I use the designer for pieces I do not have in my hands, but building them for real is the most effective way to learn. Unfortunately I do not have U-joints at the moment. I'm trying to make an idea with the help of the few pieces I have, LCad and your suggestions, then I will buy some piece to experiment with. Cheers.

yes, I can hardly stop laughing. TC21... I also understood the joke about falling asleep for long time. Anyhow, in the above schema I would miss any suspensions movement, correct? What about the crazy Idea to create a 4/5L CV joint by cutting gluing together two 3L CV ball joints? Thanks.

Title modified! Thanks a lot for the explanation of TC18, I fell really dumb... it was just a progressive number... shame on me. About the meaning for MOC it is clear. I do not know if you're arguing if a MOC shold or shouldn't be 100% "own" or in case of starting from an actual set it would be better to call it a MOD. I'm really not interested in such discussion. What I was concerned about was clearly described when talking about the aligning of joints to suspension pivots: clearly I would nee two joints as there are two pivots. I will try something different the design won't work. Ah, I posted as I lack both the experience and the parts to do the experiment, you have to start somewhere and I will do a bit of both. Thanks a lot for the hints, I will report any progress. regards, f.

first of all sorry if the title is not the correct one. I thought it was referred to the total width of the model. I will change it by removing the [] part. About image, I can only upload up to 100k images, then I used imgurl. If I got you right ONE single joint won't never-ever work even if the displacement of the suspension is around 1 stud, am I right? I fail to understand if: it is a problem of effectiveness (reduced) / fragility it cannot work at-all Thanks a lot. Another option could be to switch to the ball joint and make an illegal piece by stacking (gluing) two 3L CV joints (32494) one against the other and maintain the total length to 4 or 5L only.

Hello, I'm starting a project to modify the ZR1 42093. The plan is to modify it with: the Racing Brick Buwizz 2L motors MOC a full independent suspension front and rear axles. To include the suspensions I will most probably need to: get rid of the fake motor make the rear of the car larger 2 studs per side. For the front: I saw a beautiful suspension mechanism for the front from one of the users here (it's a [TC18] thread) I would like to implement his solution. For the rear: I attach a couple of images, this is my first attempt with LDCad. The rear suspensions are more for a visual effect, their travel will be one stud more or less. The "rest" position of the axle is nearly horizontal. I cannot place anything over the axle as there's the 8stud buwizz mounted above (with half stud clearance). Questions for you experts: Is the 3L joint an acceptable compromise for the vertical suspension motion? I know I should use two joints, but I would like not to increase the size to 25 studs. would the 3L joint survive the two L motors in parallel? Or should I look for "metal-semi-illegal" parts? would you suggest a different approach? I'm not going to place a floating differential, in case of failure I will just use a straight axle and call it a day and having the suspensions just for visual. thanks a lot. Rear Axle 01 Rear Axle 01 - Top Rear Axle 01 - motor view

Yeah I see, one of my issues is in fact the availability of parts in LDD: I can't find the wheel support you're using (I think it is 32186) and also other parts that I would need. I downloaded LDCad and library, seems working. If you could, please share the file so that I can check parts and mod it to fit the ZR1. Thanks a lot again.

oh, I was looking for a way to incorporate front suspension in my 42093. That's seems a neat design, do you have LDD file for that?

Thanks a lot, [TC18] is an interesting set of threads. The timeout-anti-bot makes quick browsing quite challenging, I fear that, despite the lockdown, I won't be able to go through them efficiently enough to get to the point in a finite time. Unless I'm lucky e.g. someone reading my post already had similar goals and would point me to the right direction. For the moment I proceed with my slow reading... the few posts I was able to check where either overly complex (steering + driving + suspensions) or missing a part ( - suspension). Thanks, KR.

Hello, back building lego after something like 35 years... I'm a bit rusty. Please be smooth. I would like to modify the corvette ZR1 model (42093) by adding independent suspensions. Note that this is the buwizz version (this will have an impact for the rear axle), and that I'm totally fine to remove the fake engine. I know that on that scale it has little no meaning having independent suspensions, but I'm OCD for that. Let's start from the front axle. The following constraints apply: Width: is 15 -17 studs (including wheels). It should be no more than 5 studs tall cross axle for steering is arriving from the bottom of the car (wheel-center-level) Wheels are 30.4 mm x 20 mm: I'm going for the 3 pins connection, but if not suitable for a compact solution I will stay with the original no pin holes 30.4 mm x 14mm rims. I started from an Efferman's LDD file, but I soon stumbled into various issues: wheels seems not big enough for the leverages (they are too near to the ground) track rod is 6m that's a big issue also for a compact Any help is appreciated. regards.