Some Belgian LEGO Fan

Hi guys The updated version of my Pistenbully is online at LEGO Ideas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/4afe4584-482e-4b91-9f3d-e79dd510ad77 It features many improvements, such as: Replaced Power Functions with Powered Up (well, more like placeholders for the Powered Up parts since they are not available in Bricklink Studio) Added winch arm (so it now is a PistenBully 600W) Added pneumatic hoses to the digital model (quite some work) One M-motor to power all non-drive functions Reversing mechanism in winch control and pusher blad width control so that the M-motor can always turn in the same direction ... Please support the build if you like it. Needless to say I want to reach 10000 votes ;) A couple of images: (Here they are showed in good quality. The LEGO Ideas website compresses images too much.) Thanks for your support!

You can try, but I don't thik it will work. As sead before, I connected one XL motor to the front differential and 1 XL motor to the rear differential. Two XL motors on the centre differential might damage the gears because of the high torque going trough. You could try and accelerate carefully. If you hear gears cracking, you will need to simplify the drivetrain.

According to these tests: https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm, the PU L and PU XL indeed share the same electric motor. The PF L and PF XL are different, although the difference is smaller than I thought... Still waiting for the BuWizz motors to arrive

I have the Defender set up the second way, and it is not slow thanks to the BuWizz's ludicrous mode :) After all, the XL motors are more powerful than the L motors, so if you would gear them in such a way that the speed at the wheel is the same, the XL motor setup would deliver more torque than the L motor setup. If you gear the motor so that the torque at the wheels is the same, the XL motor setup would be faster than the L motor setup.

Not so fast! Sorry, my answer was not complete... I thought you only wanted to discuss the driving part, so I didn't pay attention to the steering in my answer. But first, do you know the difference between LEGO Power Functions and LEGO Powered Up? Take a look at this video: The connector is different and Power Fuctions can only use a servo motor for steering (4th from left). Powered Up motors have a position sensor built in and therefore can use a L (or XL) motor for steering. There are 2 Powered Up servo motors (now called angular motors) as well, but they are not covered in this video and quite expensive. If you choose the older Power Functions (PF), you need the following to make the Defender RC: 2 L, 1 XL or 2 XL PF motors for drive (1 L motor works for lighter vehicles, but not the Defender) 1 PF servo motor for steering 1 standard PF battery box and 1 SBrick or 1 BuWizz 2.0 (has battery built in) or 1 standard PF battery box, 1 PF IR receiver and one PF IR remote control (2 models) Mind that the PF IR receiver cannot handle 2 XL motors, but I wouldn't choose the IR option anyway... If you choose the newer Powered Up (PU), you need the following: 2 L, 1 XL or 2 XL PU motors for drive 1 L PU motor or 1 PU small angular motor for steering 1 LEGO Contrul+ hub or 1 BuWizz 3.0 BuWizz will in most cases be the better choice, but mind that you need a different version for Power Functions and for Powered Up.

The SBrick is good, but since I have the BuWizz as well, I didn't use it anymore. It feels like an interim solution. The BuWizz is a more compact and powerful solution. Either buy a BuWizz or the Lego Control Hub. Also, I wouldn't buy the control hub on itself but rather as part of a set. Here at least, the control hub costs €80 and a set including that, two L motors and a whole lot of parts (f.e. 42124) only around €90.

Hi noahtheb If you want to drive the Defender with two motors (L or XL), I would recommend to drive each axle with one motor. Therefore, you would need to remove the gearbox and the centre differential. This has a couple of advantages: less weight, less friction, less chance of cracking gears, less play on the drivetrain, traction will only be lost when two wheels lose grip instead of when one wheel loses grip and more interior space. Try to make the connection between the motor and the axle differential as direct as possible. However, with the L-motor you might need to reduce gearing, for example with motor > 12t gear > 20t gear > axle differential. Keeping the gearbox is possible, then you would need to combine the motors on the gearbox's input. I think it won't have many advantages and operating the gearbox remotely will add more weight and bulk.

Yes, I did so by lowering the damper's mounting point by half a stud. Front: Back: Keep in mind that the universal joints on the half axles don't run smoothly at this angle, so the suspension has to be compressed a bit by the vehicle's weight (which it is always supposed to do, otherwise suspension doesn't make a lot of sense). This combined with mounting the truck tires on the Defender rims (see my previous post) gives a ground clearance of 5.5 studs with uncompressed suspension, 4.5 studs with suspension partly compressed by the vehicle's weight and 2.5 studs with the suspension fully compressed.

I tried some different wheel and tire combinations on the Defender. The standard LEGO truck wheels have the same dimensions as the Defender wheels, but they have a smaller ET-value (einpresstiefe) than the Defender wheels. As a result, they are positioned further outside. You can combine the: Defender wheels with Defender tires (obviously) Defender wheels with truck tires - but the suspension needs to be lifted with half a stud Truck wheels with Defender tires - but the fenders needs to be widened by one stud Truck wheels with truck tires - but the suspension needs to be lifted with half a stud and the fenders need to be widened by one stud Truck wheels with tractor tires - but the suspension needs to be lifted with half a stud and the fenders removed Cannot be combined: Defender wheels with tractor tires - they are wider and taller and will rub on all sides Also, the tractor tires are so tall, that the play in the wheel hub and suspension cause too much variation in geometry. It doesn't drive that well. It is fast though (with an XL PF motor driving each axle). To my surprise, the gears and diff never skipped or cracked, not even with the BuWizz set on Ludicrous. Some pictures: With truck rims and tractor tires, suspesion on standard height: With suspension raised half a stud: With truck tires on Defender wheels, suspension raised half a stud: I quite like this setup, it drives very well and makes it better RC car for outdoor use. RC setup; PF XL motor on each axle, directly driving the diff, PF servo in place of the fake engine, BuWizz in the trunk, all controlled with an Xbox controller.

Yes, you can. It doesn't interfere with any functional parts like the rear diff or the gearbox.

Very nice work! But the 130 won't have the spare wheel on the back :) Does someone know where the spare wheel is located on the 130? Is it underneath, like on the Range Rovers, or is it inside, at the side of the boot? You made the fenders 1 stud wider. What did you change on the suspension?

Thanks! I didn't even know such a thing existed. I will give it a try, but it doesn't look easy.

Hi guys I present you the Kässbohrer PistenBully 600, top of the range of the well known alpine ski slope preparation machines. The model reproduced in LEGO Technic is true to scale 1:16 and contains 2044 parts (excluding pneumatic tubes). I submitted it in LEGO Ideas: https://ideas.lego.com/projects/4afe4584-482e-4b91-9f3d-e79dd510ad77 (For more pictures, see LEGO Ideas site.) The model has many functions, some of which can be controlled remotely: Drive: both tracks are motorised individually and can be controlled remotely Pusher blade up/down and swivel are pneumatic, controlled from within the cabin The pusher blade side panels are motorised and can be controlled remotely In-cabin selector to switch between compressor and pusher blade side panels operation Tiller rotation is motorised and can be controlled remotely Tiller up/down is pneumatic, controlled on the tiller arm Side finisher are deployed pneumatically, controlled on the tiller arm Tiller swivel is a free movement so it follows the vehicle's path Cabin can be tilted forward and locked in normal position by levers under the engine cover The model uses stickers on a couple of panels and tiles: Doors left and right Tiller cover left and right Front logo Rear view mirrors Centre console monitor Centre console selector and two parts in a new colour: 3x5 liftarm in black (4x) 2x2 round plate in trans-orange (2x) LEGO Ideas rules did not allow this image: Please note that not all new pneumatic and PoweredUp parts are available in BrickLink Studio, that is why it has the wrong battery box, the old L-motors, the old pneumatic switches and no pneumatic tubes. The real version I made works fine though. Let's hope for some snow this winter so I can test it in real life ;) This model can be transformed in the PistenBully 600E+ by replacing the red parts with bright green. I tried adding the winch, but it didn't look good. I guess it's shape is too difficult (for me) to reproduce in LEGO Technic. So no winch for now... To do: - Make an animation showing the functions - Give the winch another try - Add penumatic tubes in drawing (I could try this by exporting the model to LDraw) - Replace L motors and battery unit with PoweredUp version when they become available in BrickLink Studio. Suggestions are most welcome. I hope you like it. If you do, I would be very gratefull for your support on https://ideas.lego.com/projects/4afe4584-482e-4b91-9f3d-e79dd510ad77

I did some scale calculations on the Defender. The scale is somewhere between 1:10 and 1:11. I cacluated for scale 1:11, which case closest. I couldn't find the length of the doors in the specifications, so this I measured in pictures. The other dimensions are retreived from the official specifications. Hope this helps for conversions... BTW, the pickup version is based on the 110, but does not carry the spare wheel on the back.

Nicce and simple solution! It works better than my previous design of a door lock. Allow me to improve only a little bit on this design: This way, the door handle can't be turned upwards that far.

Like on most cars, a dreployable tow bar is available on the real life version of the Defender. I tried to replicate this feature for the lego version. https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=140729 Video

I made the bodywork easy to remove (without following the mod guide). I wanted the seats to stay on the chassis, and not in the bodywork. There are 10 pins connecting the bodywork to the chassis (indicated in red). I added a 'door stop' to prevent the trunk from opening inwards (indicated in green), and reinforced the connection between the front arches and the doorstep. Two half-height 5L beams click into the 5x7 frames I used to reinforce the front part of the chassis. The rear seats still fold, but less far if the bodywork is mounted because of the B-pillars. For motorisation, I removed the whole gearbox and made a low-high gear and lockable center diff in the center console. The center console still needs to be finished. For the steering, my final idea was to put the servo motor where the cranck shaft was. It works and drives really well, even faster than I expected. The steering wheel is still turning and the front suspension can handle the weight of the servo without modification. The rear suspension is now oriented straith up instead of slightly inwards, to make room for the battery pack. This also makes it a little firmer which is good for the added weight. I hope to finish the center console soon...

As for my first attempt to motorize the Defender. First the succeeded part. The above mentioned steering mod can relatively easy be motorized: The steering ratio is good and teering works quite well this way. The interior steering wheel follows nicely, but can off course no longer serve to operate the steering, nor can the steering HOG. There is a structural downside: because of the added steering servo, the 3 stud wide floor plate needs to be replaced by something 2 stud wide on the driver's side. Also, the servo should be part of the structure in order to repair the chassis regidity. The driving function is still work in progress. I first tried to put an XL motor under the bonnet. The cranckshaft and the pistons need to be removed. I would have preferred to install the motor in the middle of the engine bay, but couldn't find a way to get the steering column out of the way, so I mounted the motor 1 stud to the passenger side. As a result, the drive shaft needed to come out of the center console also 1 stud to the passenger side. To achieve that, the beam with the Lo-Hi sticker needs to be moved 2 studs to the back. The easier solution would have been to remove the steering column and mount the motor in the center. But that is not the problem. The problem turns out to be the gearing that is all wrong for the motor. There is more cracking than moving. I think the path from the motor to the wheels is simply too long. Another minor issue is that the XL motor in the front, requires the double red suspension and I don't have those in spare. My next attempt to motorize the drive, will consist of disconnecting or removing the 4-speed gear box and only leave the D-R and Lo-Hi functionality. In that case, the XL motor can be mounted in the center console, in the middle between the 4 seats. Another possibility is to omit the center diff and all the shifters and gear boxes and put 2 XL motors in the center console. One to drive the front wheels and one to drive the rear wheels.

Thanks! With the steering rack in front of the axle, the steering link pivot point needs to be on the outside of the wheel pivot point in order to obtain Ackermann geometry. With the steering rack behind the axle, the steering link pivot point needs to be on the inside of wheel pivot point in order to obtain Ackermann geometry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry The steering link pivot point being farther ouside than the wheel pivot point is the reason the steering link touches the inner edge of the rim. The first option, as proposed in this topic, needs the long toothed beam. The second option needs the short toothed beam, as included in the set, but with a reduced subframe width between the steering links, which is not worked out yet for this set as far as I know. It might not even be worth the effort since the friction against the rim is minimal.

Hi guys I made a few modifications on my 42110. Basically followed jb70's v1.3, but with some alterations. Thanks to the contributors! The trunk lock, which was one of the first things I modified, even before consulting this forum: A simplified version of twoofives door locks: Even without rubber band, the lock clicks and stays in horizontal position (only when closed). I doubled the half-height beam to reduce possible movement of the closed door. Longer beams to increase chassis stiffness: The proposed Ackermann steering does improve the geometry, and reduces the number of gears, but introduces a couple of new problems: The 24-teeth gear touches the toothed beam. To solve this, I switched the 20 and 24 teeth gears. The toothed beam mooves quite a lot. To solve this, I guided it with a long axle (movie, if the link works). The steering link touches the inner edge of the rim. However, friction is minimal. The only way to solve this is to move the steering rack back to the orignial position: behind the front axle. I reclined the front seats a bit, I found them to 'straight', and made the rear seats foldable, which resulted in some nice arm rests as a bonus (movie, if the link works): Next post will cover my attempt to motorize steering (succeeded) and driving (work in progress).