Jump to content

Illuwatar

Eurobricks Vassals
  • Posts

    54
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Illuwatar

  1. Something wonderful became even better! And thanks for the file - will look into it when some spare time is found. Would be really nice if this could be built with real parts.
  2. Any plans for sharing the LDD-design then? Someone else might want to build it...
  3. Just wonderful - any plans for building it IRL?
  4. There you have it - a good time to use that Arduino kit... Making things appear random is much easier in code than in hardware (either mechanical or with discrete electronics). The Arduino might be too large to house inside a regular brick, but you certainly find a space to hide it inside the MOC. And hooking it up to the other PF-parts could be easily performed by modifying some PF extensions wires.
  5. Had the same thought when I saw this. Must it be built with 100% Lego parts? If you are into microcontrollers, then it is easy. A small PIC or AVR MCU can do this with ease. And if you are skilled with the soldering iron, it is even possible to house that inside a modified brick of suitable size...
  6. The design is just imaginary, maybe inspired by mining vehicles. Parts mainly from the 8043 (those yellow pieces have been in the box, unused for a while). If you go for tracks, then you should use two motors instead of four.
  7. Sure - here they are: I don't have the 8110 yet, so I can't test the wheels. These old wheels do have the advantage in this design due to their properties: they do have enough grip to propel the vehicle but still enough slipperyness to make the skid steering work at high speeds. No problems to do 360's at high speed (if you can manage the controls...).
  8. Had to build something similar to test the idea - so here is my spin on this: Runs like a charm but rather tricky to steer at speed (specially if the "analog" transmitter is used - easier with the digital ones, same as in the 8043 set). Works best on hard floors, not so good at carpets.
  9. That thing is just brutal (just look at the bride sections at top - they are 6-wide...). And I had problem finding space for my 10030... Amazing work though.
  10. Have been done a few times before... Google search... Example of a PF-version Something I would like to see more are machines that does not run on wheels or tracks. Can't really make up a suggestion now, but something stationary with lot of gears inside it. A mechanical calculator maybe? Robotics (even without NXT)?
  11. Exactly what I did on my MF - all these bley technic bricks can be replaced with any other color (I took black instead), saving a lot on the total cost. There are only two tiny spots where these technic pieces shines through (on the front, inside the mandibles), so if you want a proper look, pick the correct pieces for just that spot.
  12. Built the chassis of the car last night, using the major parts from the 8070 and some extras from the storage. I really like it - the instructions are really professional made, easy to follow. And the design of the chassis is just excellent. The modular approach is clever. And I got the gearbox (a really nice one) I was missing on the original 8070... But I will agree with an earlier post about the wheelbase. Having the car (without bodywork) on the table, fitted with the 8070 wheels, it looks more like a street converted off-roader or a beach buggy than a sleek sports car. So, the final bodywork might be something else when I'm done with this. Also, getting a third diff into this for true 4x4 would be nice (anyone tried yet?). Edit: Added a few pictures of current progress. And I had parts for a V8 (the engine from 8070) only, so a supercharger have been added instead...
  13. Maybe little bit OT but also maybe an answer on the previous question: It seems to be used only in between the front/rear, not between wheels. Found also this: http://individual.ut...lik/torsen.html
  14. To improve handling on smooth surfaces. Locking the diff is a way to get out of situations where traction is lost due to one of the wheels are off the ground. Useful while offroading or in icy conditions. Normal driving is done with the diff enabled.
  15. Cornering performance for the win.. Nice vehicle for sure. Worth trying to build something similar due to it's simplicity. A question: are the four motors controlled independently or are they linked in some way (running in pairs from the same channel on the IR-receiver)?
  16. You can specify if you want only new parts when you create the Wanted-list during a part-out of a set ("Wanted In" setting). This way will give you only new parts in the stores. I don't know if it helps as I'm not really following what you are trying to do. But if you want to build your Falcon from new parts only, the easiest way is to use the setting when you part out the set.
  17. Yes, disassembling the model requires some serious work as the axles inside the folding wings are really hard to remove without breaking the entire thing down into suitable pieces. So, forget to remove the wings as wholes (bin there, done that)...
  18. As you want a large set and seems to have the budget, then I should recommend the 8043 Motorized Excavator. It has it all and it is also a good source of parts for MOCs.
  19. Just Amazing! What a level of detail in this build... I would like Lego to produce an UCS like this, not only massive gray ships...
  20. So, this is what your idea came from? A beast for sure...
  21. Last orders finalized at Bricklink and Lego support, for my upcoming rebuild of the 10030 UCS Imperial Star Destroyer. Now, a few weeks of waiting follows until all pieces are at home...
  22. Couldn't that just be a result of the limited amount of angles possible using Lego parts? The proportions of the ISD has been tuned to fit the available wedge plate types. Other angles needs some kind of interpolation, creating steps and jagged edges. If the model is large enough, this could work, but on the UCS ISD, it would be too visible. The UCS Falcon is a good example of a shape approximation, creating the sense of a circular hull with wedge plates... In your planned build that is 132 cm (in my measurements), interpolating the hull-lines in small steps could work. Give it a try...
  23. That must be the most brutal Lego thing I have ever seen... what are you trying to re-create? Something from a game or a movie? Whatever it is, it is impressive. If I would build something like this, I should consider leaving the PF-system all together (temporary ignore the purist inside me) and go for proper RC-control for the model. A multi-channel radio control, servos, matching speed regulators, battery packs and motors. Or if you are into electronics, build your own PWM-based motor controllers. As mentioned earlier, battery packs for RC is a better option for this application than Lego PF battery boxes. A fun thing with a project like this would be to add a "brain" to it and remote control the vehicle over wireless LAN from a computer. Adding a web-cam to it, showing a cockpit-view could be nice...
  24. As I know, the 10030 was made first in old grey, then changed to bley. With the same set number on both versions. If there are any design changes? I don't know as I have only the instructions from Lego official support page and they are showing old gray parts. So, a color change can be done within the same set number, but a design/construction change gives you a new number?
  25. Nice idea and good renderings - rather short though... specially the podrace scene could have been longer. Frigates and other large ships look wrong with minifigs around it due to scale, digital or IRL doesn't matter, but that maybe just me...
×
×
  • Create New...