Amt0571

Last year I bought a used 42043 Arocs since it was a set I always wanted and I didn't find anything interesting on the lineup. This year the lineup is even less interesting and I'm considering buying my first CADA set... probably the Remote Control Excavator C61082W. I have bought the Temple Bounty for my son though, but only because I found it with a 25% discount.

After messing with some lubricants, I dissassembled the turntable and "lubed" it with wax. 0 problems since then. It's really smooth and no longer gets stuck. That being said, the hoses routing is quite tricky and you have to be very careful that they don't interfere with the movement.

Of course they will. They'll conclude that heavy machinery doesn't sell well and will release more F1 cars.

Yes. But they're outriggers. You deploy them once, and then play with the crane at a decent speed. That isn't a playability problem. In 42215 everything is so slow it's not worth playing with it.

42043 was half the cost and included pneumatics, suspension, and its functions worked. 42082, again, was half the price (and almost dpuble the pieces), and its functions worked well. This has an exhorbitantly high price with few functions that you can't play with because you'll get to retirement age before you have managed to fully lift the arm. Frankly, lately lego, and especially technic, is a constant dissapointment, both on the type of sets released and pricing.

AliExpress and Temu are quite popular in Spain. There are some other brands like megablocks that are available in stores, but most of Lego clones are bought directly in China here.

I live in Spain, which to be honest, is not exactly the richest country in Europe, but I see more and more people buying lego clones to their kids instead of original legos. The value just isn't there anymore except for a very few specific sets.

It feels it's so slow it's unplayable. You're being generous. I wouldn't buy it at 200.

1. 42043 2. 42082 3. 8880 4. 8043 5. 42054

Oh wow, a proper Technic set, finally! OH WAIT!

At first sight it looks good and I was excited but: no RC. No motorized tracks or superstructure. Only one motor with gearbox. Only 2359 pieces. This looks like a 42082 made excavator instead of crane. Except that 42082 had 4057 pieces, motorized superstructure, 2 gearboxes instead of one, a piston engine and steering systems... and it cost almost half of what they're asking for this. Where's the value? This is almost what the Liebherr excavator cost at launch... Frankly, after the all-cars line-up and the dissappointing and way too expensive heavy machinery releases, I'm either going second-hand or looking to china.

At this point, I'll be happy with anything that is not an overexpensive car with a gearbox or worse: barely no functions.

The Defender does it to, and they didn't stop selling it.

I don't get what the problem with the Osprey was. They already had an "Osprey" in 8082: %7BfileStore.core_Attachment%7Dmonthly_2025_02/image.jpeg.02c57e5649657bc762469b2798300c60.jpeg

The thing is that a couple of years ago, when I rebuilt the car, the springs felt ok. I think that they got weaker because they're partly compressed when in the car even when there's no weight on the wheels. I previously had built the car twice when I was a kid, but it had never been assembled for more than a week or two.

They're the grey original ones. I have disassembled one and it extends to the original length, but it's definitely weaker than it was. I've disassembled one of them and they're clean. They feel definitely weaker than I remember them.

A couple of years ago I rebuilt my 8880 Supercar from when I was a kid to show it on a shelf in my office. The car has been "lifted" from the shelf using a stand (the wheels were not touching the ground, and the springs were as extended as the suspension arms allow). The car worked perfectly after the rebuild. I had barely touched it until today, and to my surprise I found that the suspension springs are barely able to return. If I push the car down it returns really slowly or doesn't return at all. I found it surprising because when I built it I felt that the suspension was way too hard, and I also remember this feeling from when I built it when I was a kid. I have always disliked the fact that with the suspension fully extended the springs are still partially compressed, and I'm not sure if this could be the cause of the "damage". Is this a possibility? I'm thinking about displaying it with the shocks lower pivots removed, so as the shocks are fully extended, and see if they recover... is that possible? or once they get weak there's no turning back? It's not a huge issue, since it's now a shelf queen, but it bothers me somewhat to have it not working as intended.

IMHO, if you just want to buy a set to build it, there's no reason to buy it sealed. If it's already open you can assess it's condition before buying, and it will be a lot cheaper to boot. Having said this, I think what you got is definitely not what you paid for.

I have not managed to open the turntable. How do you do it without breaking anything?

I have not had the issue of the tips pulling from the shafts yet. I doubt It'll happen considering the use this model will see is mostly as a display. I have the 42144 material handler and the 42043 Arocs, obviously with original cylinders, and when I pick them up to play the cylinders are usually sticky and I need to move them before playing like you describe with the mould-king ones. The small one that operates the grabber on 42144 and the buckets on 42043 are the worst offenders. I usually move them slightly manually and then they work smoothly.

Finally the cylinder and pump replacement arrived. It was not said on the Aliexpress ad, but they turned out to be from "Mould King". They seem to work well and the cylinder has less friction than original lego cylinders which means a slightly smoother movement. They're visually identical except that both, pump and cylinder, have a "Mould King" logo engraved on the side. It's ugly, but somewhat difficult to see, so it doesn't bother me that much.

Well, I've finally finished 42043. It has definitely surpassed 42082 as my favourite set. Don't get me wrong: I love 42082 for its huge size and well working functions, but the Arocs functions all work flawlessly, the looks are great, and it's a set that feels like they didn't try to reduce costs anywhere. Pneumatics with motorized compressor, a relatively complex gearbox with 3 other functions, 2 driving and 2 steered axles, full suspension, a 6L full size piston engine... It's just too good. The only things I could wish for are a softer front suspension, a steering that felt slightly less stressed, a reversing gearbox a-la 42082 so it wasn't needed to use the switch on the battery box to change direction, and a crane that was "foldable" in a more realistic manner. All things that I can easily pardon since the set is so good. I paid more than the original price: 235€ + shipping for it, used, with original box, manual, fully cleaned, disassembled, and a new sticker sheet. It was definitely expensive, but worth every cent. We need less cars and more Legos like this.

Great information. And do all silicon oils use carriers that dissolve the pieces, or are there safe to use silicone oils? I sprayed the oil yesterday and today everything seems fine at the moment. Does it means It's ok? Or is it a slower process?

I'm building an Arocs 42043 and the turntable felt quite bad even before assembling it. Turning the gears with my fingers it got stuck even before attaching the crane to it, and after mounting the crane on the truck it barely turned more than 20º before getting stuck and making the clutch gear slip. I had the idea to lubricate it, and looked online about adequate oils. I found that some recommended silicone oil, and I went to the garge as I had a silicone oil spray. I sprayed inside the turtable through the 4 top holes and spun it and after that everything started to work like magic. Later, I read that some silicone oils contain acetone and that it damages the plastic. The spray I have doesn't say anything about it, but I'm not sure if I should be worried and remove the oil. I used a Parkside branded spray that specifically says "plastic" and "rubber" on it... so I suppose I'm safe, but I don't really want to damage anything.

Eventually I'll probably disassemble the polarity switches and the 8082 battery box, but so far I have not felt the urge to do so. I assume the problem is corrosion because the cable connections fail sometimes too because of it. At least cables don't need to be disassembled to remove the corrosion, so It's an easy process. I know micromotors tend to fail, but last time I tried, probably a couple of years ago, both of them worked like new.