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Hobo Fett

Eurobricks Vassals
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About Hobo Fett

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  1. Much thanks-I built the interior right after I finished the main floor substructure, then built the ship around it. I rarely used tweezers, mostly needlenose pliers and a piece of coat hanger bent into an L. Sometimes I put a wad of kneaded eraser on the end for super crazy upside down placement.
  2. Much appreciated- I used as many photos of actual ILM models as possible for exterior reference, and did a lot of pausing the movies for the interior. btw nice cantina!
  3. Thank you! I think some of the 8 x 4 wedge plates are from the Galaxy Explorer I got when I was 6(1979).
  4. Thank you very much, and while I'm not specifically opposed to Ep.VII, my Star Wars fanaticism is limited to the original trilogy(for now).
  5. Yeah, the cockpit is a little too big, the exhaust vents too small, and maybe too thick overall- I figured I had a little leeway since the numerous models and sets built for the movies(including CG) had slightly different proportions, and by the time I noticed it was a little late anyway. I didn't have any real plan, working out the toughest details(cockpit, docking rings, and exhaust vents) first, incorporating them as I built. It seemed that most Lego falcons were lacking in these areas, and I wasn't going to bother with the rest of the ship if I couldn't get them right. I also thought the UCS and other MOC falcons looked kinda flat, which is why I articulated the saucer portions of the hull, giving it a more curved look. I had to shoot some interior shots with an endoscope(lower res), as the weight of the ship as I was building made it seem necessary to span certain sections with support beams, making interior access more difficult. In hindsight, I'm almost glad it worked out that way, forcing the viewer to see some of the interior from 'eye level' only(rationalization). The exterior usually trumped the interior, but I had to compromise here and there. The whole thing is overbuilt, due to me not knowing how much she would finally weigh or hold together when picked up, and I didn't want any creaking or separating.
  6. I used a large gear under the floor level with 4 small ones around it forming a square. The small gears each have an axle running up to just under the 'roof', where a 1 x 2 liftarm holds a medeval shield(the only pieces I modified, buffing off the coat of arms). When the large gear is turned using the wheel on the exterior underside, all 4 axles and shields turn the same direction, opening or closing the hatch.
  7. It took 3 years to build from scratch from around 9,000 pieces, measures 32" x 22" x 10", and weighs 25 lbs. There is a fully lit original trilogy interior with smuggling hatches, gun ports and connecting ladder, main hold machinery bays, and double pivot boarding ramp(solves the exterior/interior discrepancy). Exterior features include a technic gear driven four-point top hatch, finger triggered drop down surface blaster, LED lit sublight engines with switch and dimmer hidden in side greeblies, landing gear, and various removable panels and doors for interior access. I initially tried to build it using the pieces(some from the 70s) I had on hand, and even took apart my AT-ST and snowspeeder(still looking for the photos) for parts. I have had some good garage sale/flea market scores, and the East Bay Depot for Creative Reuse often gets huge Lego donations they sell by the pound dirt cheap, but I eventually succumbed to Bricklink to really get things right. I probably spent $1000 with them, and $500 at other random places. Check out my youtube video at: and my flickr albums at: https://www.flickr.c...157667807393115
  8. Throw away the instructions IMG_1781 by Lego Millennium Falcon, on Flickr
  9. Bricklink, thrift stores, flea markets, rarely ebay
  10. Maybe the Galaxy Explorer- the first one I remember anyway.
  11. I put my Legos in a box when I was 10, then dug them out at 30 when I quit drinking. Building really takes my mind off things, although it can become an addiction in itself.
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