Tearloch33

I never really noticed this before, but the real life SD-40 is significantly longer than the GP-38 (judging by the picture above). So I think TLG did a good job of keeping the scaling consistent between the 2 units. After some looking, here is the breakdown: The standard GP-38 is approx 59 ft in length, and the BNSF lego version is 32 studs long. The standard SD-40 is 68 ft in length, and the Maersk lego version is 38 studs long. The ratio of lengths for actual trains is 1.15 (SD-40 to GP-38), and the lego ratio is 1.1875, so the scale is consistent between the two trains. Nicely done TLG! BTW, I forgot to mention Great Picture. Anyone have thoughts of modifying the decals for the 10219 to match the actual livery...like the NS badging or the actual train number instead of the set number?

I am hoping that some of our esteemed collegues will scan and submit the instruction booklets. Has anyone found the instructions on the internet yet?

I prefer the LiPo one based on convenience. If you don't run your trains at a show or for long periods of time, the time to charge is not an issue (with the AAA one, you can quickly swap batteries). My real like for the LiPo is that it can be charged in place. Some trains take a bit of demolition to get to the battery back if using AAA.

I have a BNSF GP-38 that I am modifying for PF. Basically, I am taking the easy way out by hiding the battery box and half the IR receiver with decals that I am custom making to match the color scheme. I seriously looked at using a commerial LiPo battery like another poster did, but I wanted to avoid using my unskilled electrical knowledge. After seeing the pictures of the future TLG Cargo Train set, that also uses decals (or maybe they will actually mold the battery box in red?) to "hide" the battery box in the 4 stud wide body, I feel better about my decision. I will post a couple of pictures with where I am at (no decals yet, and still need to order some peices to complete the build). I also was able to create a "push button" for the battery box on/off switch very similar to that used in the current cargo trains set (#7939). I am sure there are many "custom" options, it just depends on how intrusive you want to be with your modifications. I do like the idea of recessing the battery into the fuel tanks, but that would require a custom base to be made (and I don't desire to go that far right now).

That makes sense. I never really considered that. Thanks. Anyone got a suggestion on how to attach 2 of the 88002 motors to a single engine. Right now my plan was to use the PF control switch (#8869) to reverse the direction of the one of the motors, since the motors have to face opposite directions based on the cordage. Is there any other easy options for this.

Played with LEGO my entire childhood. Moved on as an adult, but then my wife and I adopted 2 children a few years ago. My son is now 6, and I wanted to get him into LEGO building. He loves trains, so a few years ago, while at DisneyWorld, we wandered into the LEGO Store there. I found the Emerald Night set, and thought it was the best of both worlds. I loved the realism, and quickly re-found my love for LEGO while building it. My son loved it, too. Now he obsesses about LEGOs, spefically Daddy's trains. I purchased a BNSF train on ebay (since I could convince my wife of sentimental value since I worked for BNSF years ago, and the company is still the back bone of the area I grew up. I finally got my son his own LEGO train for Christmas this year (the Toy Story one), only to watch him pout the rest of Christmas Day because Daddy got a set with a motor (the Cargo Train set).

From TLG customer service, the 88002 motor (comes with Cargo Train 7939 and Passenger Train 7938) is different from the 8866 motor in several ways. 88002 has more power and torque, but also draws less current meaning longer battery life. I believe some one did testing and showed that 88002 also has better speed control (heard the 8866 has issues at low speed settings). Additionally, the 88002 moter comes with an integrated PF cable, where the 8866 motor requires a jumper cable (8886 I think) to connect it to PF set ups. The jumper cable itself has a few issues, the biggest being that the end that connects to the motor has the standard connection plate, meaning 2 stud and the electrical connection on top to allow for another cable to be connected to it. When connected to the motor, the studs and electrical connection actually extend above the boogie plate of the motor, and potentially cause binding (studs catch on bottom of train base plate preventing it from rotating) depending on where the motor is connected to the base. Now that they are making the 88002 motor available for sale, I feel the 8866 motor is obsolete, since the 88002 is a far superior product. The 8866 motor comes with a red bar painted on the boogie plate to make it identifiable. Both motors due make a hum when operating, so in that respect they are about equal. Physically, they are are same dimensions.

I wonder if the PF Battery Box will be molded in Red, or if it will use a sticker or decal to make it Red, like I am doing on my BNSF GP-38 modification to make it a PF train without using a seperate car for the battery and IR reciever.

LiPo batteries are known to act like this if the charging cycles are not managed well.

I finally started experimenting last night, and I actually was able to come up with a "push button" for the on/off switch identical to the one used on the 7939 cargo train (it sits directly under one of the fan blades, so you just push down on it), although you cannot see the lights on the battery. To charge it, I have to build in a removable section of the roof, but only a small one on the rear to go with the removable back plate. Just got my pack of decal paper in the mail, so next step is covering the battery box and IR reciever, and getting a few misc. parts to complete the mod. I will post pics soon, and hopefully make directions that step through the modification, and any other "improvements" I make.

As of last week, the PF motor is not available in US of individual sale. They did use the words "as of right now" in my conversations with TLG customer service. I hope this means it will be available when this comes to the US market, since it is far superior to the 8866 motor they currently sell.

A few more comments on this set: That is a pretty big panel that is on both sides (6x16?). Wow, big piece. This set seems to use alot of decals (look at the cab windows). This set has some interesting additions that could be used on other models. The light structure above the windshield looks nice. The addition of the steps than many add onto the BNSF model. The back end of the body looks much nicer than the BNSF. Looks like LEGO did alot of homework on this one and incorporated alot of additions that fans have added to older models. Well done. Keep'em coming.

I'm pretty amazed at the containers as well as the rest of the set. Hopefully this is a sign of things to come.

Thanks. That is pretty much what I was planning on doing with mine. I was thinking of moving the IR receiver back two studs from where you have it, and using the empty cab for wires and probably mount it high enough to route the cables under it, but for the most part, same idea. Any ideas on making an on/off "button" for the battery? I was thinking of using a technic axle connected to a fan blade on top that sits on the on/off switch.

My initial attempt was using the 8866 motor on the Cargo Train from set 7939. That is where the binding occurred. Last night I tried it out on the BNSF GP-38, and it worked. The kicker is that in does depend on the hole in the base that the boogie plate is attached to. On the Cargo Train, it connects to a different hole, I think due to the BNSF train having an extension past the normal base plate. So it does work in some instances, but not all. I did recommend to LEGO to modify the power function extension cable to be like a flat tile on one end to prevent this issue, since I can't think of a single instance where you would need to add an electrical connection to the truck on the motor. Anyway, hadn't tried it on the BNSF since it still requires mods to get the battery box and IR reciever into the 4 stud wide body. I think I plan to make decals to cover the sides of the battery box and IR reciever. Will post pics once I get going on it. Thanks for the advice. I was a bit shocked when Lego told me that the new motor not only has more power and torque, but draws less current. So that supports what you just said. I too wonder (and asked) why they still sell an inferior product. But after multiple emails with Lego, they are sending me a new motor from the cargo train to shut me up, I guess. I did find them on BrickLink after I started all this, so that is where I will go from now on until they start selling the new one. Has anyone else converted a standard BNSF train to PF with the motor and reciever in the engine? I would love to see ideas on how to hide the 4 stud wide battery and reciever in the 4 stud wide body.

I recently bought the LEGO train motor (#8866) from their website, along with the Power Function extension cord (#8886) that is required based on their product description, in order to convert a BNSF GP-38 to Power Functions. My issues started when I realized that the #8866 motor will not work on a standard train base plate since the connecting plate on the extension cord (from motor to IR reciever) has 2 studs and the standard PF electrical connection on top of the plate. When connected, the studs and electrical connection extend above the top of the integrated boogie plate on the #8866 train motor. The studs catch on the underside of the train base, essentially locking it in place and preventing it from turning as the train goes into a turn, causing derailments. I inquired about buying the train motor that is included with the recent Cargo Train (#7939) set and the Passenger Train (#7938) set, but LEGO has told me they are not available for individual purchase. That motor, I was told by LEGO, has more power and torque compared to the #8866 motor, as well as having an intergrated extension cable (so it does not have the rotation issue). It is a far superior product, in my opinion. What I was most shocked about was that LEGO seems to have no idea about the issue I brought up about the functionality of their product as they advertise it. I hope their Customer Service folks actually try to duplicate my issue. Has anyone else encountered this isse in trying to use the #8866 train motor as it is advertised by LEGO?

I think I have seen the photos you mentioned. He modified the springs to allow a center position, making it a 3 position switch instead of a 2 position switch. He gave instructions, but I would love to see a photo with the switch point removed to see the spring set up before I undertake his suggestion. I did find that you can set this switch up to run two tracks at the same time as long as the trains go in opposite directions. My only issue with that is that my son loves to make his train go backwards, negating the usefulness. If anyone has a picture of the spring setup inside the switch, I would love to see them. My other thought was to cut the slide bar connected to the switches, and modifying the mount to hook 2 throw bars in the middle. Any thoughts?

I recently purchased a LEGO RC #7996 Dual Cross-over, and now I am looking for solutions on how to discretely modify it to allow all 4 switches to operate independantly to allow for both sides to allow straight travel simultaneously. Any suggestions?