Pet-Lego

Thank you for the nice review. Guess I'd have to go get this set. Mace, Droids, and another JSF to look pretty in the hangar next to the other two.

Hi all, My girlfriend doesn't like the looks from the engine in set 7898. Time for me to see what I can do about it and looking for ways to use the RC train base with engine and lights I came upon the BR203 Diesel engine. Trying to use as many parts from the old engine this is what I came up with in LDD. The only thing that I'm worried about at the moment is the scale, will it fit with other train engines and cars. (and due to the battery box there is no room for a minifig) Let me know what you think about it and maybe even some of your thoughts on improvements. The lxf file can be found in the following Brickshelf Gallery when it's made public.

Rumour says that the triple a (AAA) battery box will be sold separately on S@H after the holiday season.

Until I have enough straight track pieces I'm using the flexi-track as the straights on shunting tracks. And I use flexi-track as 1/4 straights to have my track side by side with 4 studs between them (3 flexi-track pieces to bring the track 3/4th straight closer together). With some ballast and other frills the flexi-track pieces don't even look that odd or ugly in the shunting yard.

That's what I'm afraid of that in my childhood innocence I used an oil based lubricant instead of a silicon based one. When I buy replacement cables from bricklink they'll most likely be quite old as well, is there a likely chance they've become more brittle with old age as well? If so I guess I'll make some cables myself from the sides of a big tie-rip, it will take some work but then I at least know it will last a while and that I can replace them again if needed after a few years.

I have the Whirlwind Rescue set and both long flex cables (15L and 20L) have snapped like uncooked spaghetti. Is this common when the set is build and the cables are in a bend state for a couple of years? I might have lubricated the cables at some point but I don't remember, if no one else has broken flex cables from the same era I guess I must have used some lubricant and the wrong one at that. I'm looking to replace the broken cables, thinking about creating my own from some other material like steel wire or some plastic. Any comments?

When I was researching this topic I found that third and second class were actually old 1st (or only) class coaches. When a new more luxurious coach was build the old one became second class and so on. It started with open coaches with wooden benches, so no glass in windows and most likely not many exterior walls either. If you have that many coaches I'd go for 1st class luxurious plush seats, tables the works. second class wooden seats with some small tables and third class all wooden benches (I'd say with glass in the windows but you can check how it looks without) For order I've come to the conclusion that 1st class is either first or last for convenient locating, I'd go with last on steam trains because of the mentioned noise and the smoke/smell from the engine. So 3rd, 2nd then 1st class. Observation cars usually at the back so there's also a nice view behind the train maybe with a nice deck. There's also an option for a 'bar' coach positioned between 2nd and 1st class. About the last question, there are tenders with tunnels in them so the train operators could switch out and access the train to take a nap without stopping the train on long express lines. So the first wasn't completely closed off on the engine/tender side.

If you hold a fridge magnet close to your coupling and keep the coupling from swivelling you can make the magnet turn somersaults inside the coupling, you can hear this.

That's what I thought until I used 38 pieces of curved track to create two reverse loops (19 each) (>---------<)

Engine is running great (I've taken extra care with building when gears and drive-train was involved), the torque is amazing. I've got the revised instructions including the 1x1 technic brick on the axle to keep the gear from coming off the axle. The only modification I made on the engine is the 2 black cheese bricks (one on each side) on the front of the train (between the green and gold bricks on the 1st picture). Now it's time to get some more track.

Wanted to show you my Motorized Emerald Night. I'm very happy with the set (bought two), here are some pics. The next picture shows my second class coach with wooden benches. and the last picture the standard first class coach for comparison. Hope you liked the pictures, I at least enjoyed sharing my new train.

That is one awesome suspension bridge, but what to do with all the curved track pieces that are no longer being used now? I guess it's time to build roller coasters with lots of lego train track curves. Again very nice layout especially with those trains, nice bit of realism.

It seems that in general Lego sets are a bit cheaper in the UK when converted to euro's. For example the 7642 city garage set is £63 (converted €73) at Tesco and over here it's sold for €90. The local toy stores usually just follow advised prices that's why most over here buy online where the prices are a bit better (the same 7642 set is sold online for €70 with €6 shipping). Hope this helps

I don't think it's an official set but a combination the shop made itself. Here's the link to the shop I know

Very nice work. I really like the big red you are here arrow. ;)

Great review and what a nice set. Really nice to get a detailed what's what of the new sets. Guess I'll have another set to get after I get Slave I.

Very nice work, they look great and all that in 4-wide. Like the fact that you made two different models.

I prefer on a table or at least raised platform. That way I can have a more relaxed time setting up and running trains around, while also have my layout out longer without getting to dusty or trampled on. I'm using wooden boards to increase a tables size or use struts to raise the boards. (boards are also very use full for big tabletop games. They can be cut to various sizes for easy storage and held together with hinges or slide locks.

I've been using universal silicon oil from a spray can with straw nozzle for all my old toys with moving parts to get them back to as new performance. Never had any plastic degrading and the straw nozzle helps greatly in getting just a tiny amount on the right spots. Using it on lego gears I'd take the gears out lay them on a piece of cloth and then spray and rub a little silicon oil on them and replacing them. There's also something like silicon grease, this is much thicker like butter and will stay on the gears better as well if you are worried about leaking. Hope this helps.

That is most likely exactly the point of making the sets with freight trains.

Nice review. And thanks for the heads up in the comments on the price at bol.com ordered one right away. The way I see it this set has about € 38,- in power function parts that can be used to motorize the Emerald Night.(Remote, IR-receiver, Battery Box) Guess I'll build it and have it running until I got enough cash for 2 Emerald Nights.

Having the door rail plates on the same level as the floor plate does look quite a bit better. Nice work and thanks for sharing.

Hahahaaa. on topic. At the moment not using non-lego parts to secure my track to the table (GF wouldn't want me to damage the table anyway).

It looks quite nice and with all the yellow it even has a Dutch look ;) Wonder how it will look when build and on the track.