Toastie

Hmmm, I am always thinking along this line but then ... Google was simply not there when "we" figured things out. Now it is. Do we use it? I do. Every single day. I don't spend ages in the library anymore. TLC is a globally operating enterprise and there is though competition out there. Take Playmobil: They have every single theme TLC has in their inventory. Their stuff looks slick, clean and there is no single stud in the way. And you almost don't have to think at all how to put things together. The way young folks experience life changes with breathtakingly speed. Everything is in motion. I guess TLC is just adjusting to this change much faster than "we" do. We love the olden days, they always have been better. I am not saying this is any good. Not at all. But I do know that students at age 14 figure out with a snap of there fingers how a Stirling motor works. And they are bored. When I figured it out way back then, I was thrilled. Things do change. They have to. TLC goes along and at the same time, PF LEGO trains run on 4.5V track like a charm. I guess they are having an as hard time as we have, but they have to make big money - drawing it mostly from parents. And the kids do know Google pretty well. Just my thoughts. Best regards, Thorsten

Hi Veeb0rg, that would be very interesting indeed. You are asking for the motor inside the LEGO train motor, right? I am also very eager to learn if anyone has replaced the motor ... Regards, Thorsten

Hi there, I guess even purists might consider for a moment going along with this - TLC uses stickers all over the place - so you could try and get decently colored adhesive tape and stick it onto the receiver/battery. I did that on my BR23 PF conversion; Ben uses a 7 wide base, the tender coal compartment is 4 wide. No chance to get PF stuff in there other than - well chea(s)ti(cky tape)ing. But: It is fully removable, no harm is done to the PF stuff - and it works reasonably. Regards, Thorsten

Hi Duq, IMHO, very well phrased! Split level base plates for the (otherwise nicely designed) containers ... hmm ... a revival of the TTX style cars would have made some impression here . Regards, Thorsten

Hi there, I completely agree. Seeing all this under carriage moving like crazy when negotiating the switch points/curves is just amazing. And then the lights ... Man. Teddy, you need to do a full blown printable instruction on this beauty, no matter how long it will take ... it'll rock. I could start thinking about some background images ... OK, yes, you are right: I am trying to get my hands on my own copy of Teddy's 01 ... Best regards, Thorsten

This is not about LEGO, not about being active in the community, not about what was accomplished for this community. I haven't had the chance to meet Dieter in person. What really, really hurts so much is the 27 years he had to make this world possibly spin the other way around. It is entirely wrong. He should have been able to try this for at least 100 years. He may have had the power ... 27 years. Dieter never dies, when we remember him. When we forget, he dies. We should not. So here is my take. Let us remember him, make him being with us, take his ideas as if he would be "there". Truly yours, Thorsten

Why am I not surprised ... Well, I guess this forum will learn a lot in the time to come from your input. When Teddy has the already announced new index operative (see top of train forum, message from TheBrickster) - that may take some considerable time though, it's a shipload of work, I believe - then you entries will be most welcome! All the best, Thorsten

Hi there, you are absolutely in the field. The PF receiver works down to about 2.8V maybe even further down and all the way up to 12V. Regards, Thorsten

Hehe, the Guru's knew about the creativity of brickers - there is a 4001 protecting the receiver electronics. Oh well, I guess this is more or less good design practice, particularly when the leads are exposed and somebody could accidentally get metal stripes from C1/C2 to 9V/0V as I did a second ago ... - 0.7 V is all that is left on the supply line and all the current through die diode is transferred to heat ... So no harm again other than the shorting. But that is no problem with batteries. Regards, Thorsten

Hi retrotecchie, nice! But why aren't you using the 4.5V battery directly as the PF receivers power supply? The receiver runs smoothly on 4.5V, just tested it again. I may have dropped that somewhere around this forum, forgot. It actually does correct PWM control down to 2.8V, which means that it will flush the 4.5V entirely without malfunctioning, I bet. I don't have 4.5V motors, used the PF motor for this little test. BTW the receiver also operates on 12V like a charm. So regardless what "retro-train type" you are using, 4.5V, old 9V, 12V: The PF receiver does them all. When hooked up to the proper LEGO electric stuff (4.5V supply -> PF receiver -> 4.5V motors or 12V supply -> PF receiver -> 12V motor you naturally won't have any overvoltage issues at all ... There is a discussion over at the Technic Forum regarding higher than 9V supplies on PF stuff. Rien is running some of his PF driven LEGO equipment on 11.1 V using a custom LiPo. Works like a charm as well. People are concerned a bit about the 11.1V with regard to the motors - but no one is having problems with the receiver. Seeing what Rien has been doing with his PF stuff, the PF receiver is a really nice piece of equipment TLC has made for us! All you need is a custom PF extension cable (The 9V -> PF converter cable works perfectly well). Cut that in two pieces and connect the 9V terminal C1/C2 lines to the 9V/0V line at the PF terminal which then snaps onto the receiver's PF supply terminal. The 9V terminal may go to any 3V ... 12V supply you see fit and the receiver will happily drive the matching LEGO electric stuff (motors, lamps ...) Have fun! Thorsten

Hi TechnicFreak, well, that was essentially the message: It is not complicated to soak the LA's in heptane, but who on earth has an ultrasonic bath and at the same time heptane at hand? (Well I do, I am a nerd chemist though and I do have heptane in the lab ... but nobody else probably has) BUT: The real message is: What is the lubrication all about? Could it be that the MOC's, MOD's, or whatever people built requiring lubrication to "function" is - well - designed "on the edge"? In that case I guess we all have to live with the chance that things may go wrong. 10 LA's though, man THAT IS BAD ... how about sending them to me, I'll try - and send them back for free. We may end up with 10 dirt crap LA's but it would be worth a try. I'm in it. All the best, Thorsten

Hey Duq, I quite like your post train design! Beautiful as well. With respect to the guns as part of the pantographs: Like that as well very much. Particularly when following the bullet pathway ... hey, would-be trouble makers at the station may actually get some flak when these trains come in Nice! All the best, Thorsten

Since this seems to be an emergency ... and the dripping maybe really slow ... The pieces and everything else should be at room temperature, 20 deg C that is - to get the olive oil into the mood. Get an ultrasonic bath - in Germany some retailers occasionally sell them rather cheap. Get a well fitting glass container. Place the glass container into the bath. Fill up the ultra sonic bath with water - if you want to go all the way, use demineralized water, as used for steam irons and what not (this is just to keep your bath clean, it doesn't do anything else). Put your adversely affected Lego pieces into the glass container. Fill up the glass container with the solvent "heptane". This may be somewhat complicated, don't know where you would get this stuff from. Again, in Germany they sell this as "white gas for cleaning purpose" - don't laugh, I looked it up on LEO (as if that would matter) - "hexane" would work as well. And other non-polar solvents - but NO aromatics!!!. ABS - the LEGO plastic - and hexane/heptane don't do much to each other. But olive oil would dissolve pretty nicely in the solvent(s). Then, after buzzing them for about 15 min do what you wanted to do, get them out of the bath and hang them upside down. Collect the gunk and dispose it, as you would dispose paint solvents. Repeat the procedure maybe twice and you should be all set. BE CAREFUL THOUGH. The solvents are flammable. Smoking would not be a good idea. They are not toxic, so I guess this is a plus. I would do it right away, just get that dirty stuff out of your LEGOs! Good luck and all the best Thorsten

Hi Hoexbroe, there is an announcement from TheBrickster at the very top of the train tech forum saying that EB Fellow Teddy is in charge (well has had the guts to take on this challenge) of organizing a new Train Tech index, including "original" LEGO MOCS, but also some non-LEGO solutions. Your entry would go into the all LEGO instructions - would love to see a PDF or LDraw mpd file with your solution. Will probably take a little time but as I said: Be prepared! All the best, Thorsten

Nice! I like that. Never thought about it. I guess it is equally non-purist (maybe even worse!) to modify longer flex cables, as suggested before. Will try your solution out. Damned. That was entirely unintentional, I swear. Nor do I stock any appreciable amounts of flex-cable, just cut pieces ... should have thought about that though, would have been rich beyond my wildest dreams by now ... All the best, Thorsten

Hi TechnicFreak, did it before, sounded like a nerd, do it again: That is not the only issue you may have in the future when using olive oil or the like. It is a natural product, it is healthy, but as far as I am concerned it is (long term wise) not suited as lubricant. Temperature is one issue, all lubricants face this issue; some more, some less. Think about motor oil you guys are using in Michigan. There is some high-tech stuff that lubricates a motor at - 20 deg C and at + 30 deg C. If you go a little cheaper, there is oil for the harsh winter time and oil for hot summers. Don't use any of that for LEGO though, it will do damage. Olive oil has another built-in feature, the second and more nasty issue: It chemically changes with time. That's one of the reasons it is considered healthy: You body uses it by changing it chemically (otherwise it would go through your body untouched and - well leave it unaltered ... ). That also happens when it is exposed to heat, cold, light, time, what not. And it turns into lesser an lesser lubricating material eventually ending up as solid. I would not use it for lubrication. Silicon based stuff maybe, but then again, eventually time does change this as well. If you need lubricants for you LEGO models, then you should clean them off upon long-time storage coming up. Best regards, Thorsten

Uhmm, Hoexbroe, when this is your first LEGO train MOC, I am very, very curious to see your upcoming MOCs! This is wonderful. Has all been said before, I'd just like to point out the detailing on the roof - electricity wise. Fantastic! I literally can "see" current going into this thing and making it alive. Beautiful. And there is quite some snotting and sloping going on here. You should prepare yourself for showing more details - instructions even? This is really good stuff. Best regards, and think about it - did you notice the very first "Announcement" forum entry??? Be prepared! Thorsten

Hi there, me again, did not notice before (damn ...) but: Brand new 7938 on the track, ok modified, but all the brand new parts present, bley, slopes "never" seen before (at least not in red) and and and - and then 4.5V track! Or is it 12V without power rail? Who cares? THAT is what TLC is about. THAT is why I am believing in the most enjoyable toy in the world, regardless of what TLC is doing to us: It is all compatible. The 4.5V/12V area is AGES ago, but 7938 runs smoothly on the point. Thanks for sharing this "cimddwc", you made my day. Best regards, Thorsten

Wow, that is a great solution to all my problems with 7938! Just perfect. I love the shared bogies and the doors most . The increased length is also very well matching with the overall appearance of the real thing. Guess I am going to copy quite a lot here. Love it! Did you buy two 7938 sets to make this (would it make sense?) or did you have the extra stuff at hand or got that separately? Very nice train! Regards, Thorsten

Dear All, this discussion is worth a lot. It illustrates very nicely the "width and depth" of EB, the tolerance, the work so many people are devoting to make this actually work. Just imagine: A web at hand - who wants to join may join and post ... and then there needs to be some sort of organization. I have been around here only for a couple of months. And yes, to be honest, I was wondering (when starting to explore things here on EB) who is getting "etiquettes" for what, what contribution appears when I open EB, and how in the world can you ever post 1000+ messages? Easy: Do what you want. All I want is: Sharing ideas, get information, furnish information. Front page? Well as far as I am concerned TheBrickster has really made the point: It is nice to be on the front page but it is not the pivotal point here. And that makes EB so strong. Finally, I sort of "felt" it before, but this discussion really underlined it: The folks running, moderating, making this site really DO CARE. Wonderful. Congrats to you all, for having this discussion going and for making EB what it is! All the best, Thorsten

Hi Blackburried, it teaches you to use NXC or RobotC. The former is free the latter has a 30 day trail then you have to pay - as far as I am concerned - a reasonable amount of money. So you have ample of time to compare the packages. I have both and will never delete these programming environments from my computer. It may very well be that you know all that, but oithers may not. The NXT PBrick is essentially a micro controller and these are programmed in text oriented environments - as you may all know again. I am teaching from time to time classes in this regard and I can tell you, once the kids jumped on it, they love it. And many of them are damned good. Best regards, Thorsten

Thanks Philo! Your motor comparison page is invaluable. I used it a thousand times I guess. So nice that you keep it updated. Best regards, Thorsten

Hi astra, it depends what you are asking for. Yes, V2.0 of the NXT set features the new color sensor. And new firmware for the NXT PBrick. The other stuff (lets call that passive LEGO pieces) are no way worth to invest that amount of money for the NXT upgrade. Further, I doubt that the HiTechnic sensor is really that low quality, as stated before. I have one (with the NXT 1.0) and it works very well with up-to-date firmware. Now what programming environment are you using? When TLC upgraded the RCX 1.0 to 1.5 they have improved the firmware but at the same time cut cost on the hardware and downgraded the PBrick to a battery-only version (actually the PCB has all the wholes for the rectifier, capacitors, etc. but they are left empty). The "upgrade" to 2.0 just meant that firmware was improved again, but that was it. And of course some new LEGO bricks were included. NXT1.0 is hardware-wise identical to NXT2.0. If you prefer alternative firmwares, e.g., RobotC or the like, you'll get latest improvements through firmware updates at relatively low to no cost. The "new" LEGO bricks are available through BL. The color sensor ... well that has been said. BTW, has anyone programmed the NXT with some tough color sensing and actually experienced HT color sensor glitches? I would really appreciate any input here. Best regards, Thorsten

Hi reload, man, this is incredible. Nothing more - nothing less. Amazing. And: For me, HiTechnic stuff is indeed 100% LEGO. They make COOL things that TLC actually is supposed to create - but TLC simply "outsourced" that to maximize revenue and minimize risk. HiTechnic makes stuff that 100% works with LEGO PBricks. And they have been certified by TLC (whatever that means). As far as I am concerned, your model is 100% LEGO. Wonderful. Rock on, Thorsten

Hi Teddy and all, that was exactly the same issue I had with my copy of Ben's 23. And it was much worse when motorizing it. Finding the right length is indeed some elaborate (and maybe costly) procedure. I guess I have figured out a rather straight forward way in getting the right length cables: Buy long flex cables. Two ends are already perfectly suited. Cut the wire exactly to length (Teddy's factional mm dimensions are indeed critical if you want to deliver power via a flex system driving rod - in this regard the flex tubing lengths are equally important). Then carefully carve out some sort of notch at the cut end with an exacto knife or the like, approximately matching the original shape on the uncut end. The shape is really not that important - the Technic Flex System Pin Connectors are rather tolerant with the notch. All that matters is that the cable is pushed in all the way into the connector. You can even close the connector without notch using a caliper, but then the cable may slip. All the best, Thorsten