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Posted

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Hello all,

It's been a very, very long time since I posted a MOC, but with the aid of a new camera that actually focusses where I want it to do and with some gained experience of using photoshop, I can finally present something new to you all. And that's not all: for the coming year I will post a new MOC every month, of which 10 are already finished!

For my first project I want to take you back to 2003, when Hasbro sold this 'Ultimate Bounty' set as a TRU exclusive:

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and in it was a rather cool Speederbike of Aurra Sing, which I liked very much:

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Long have I thought of making a MOC of this cool vehicle, but it was a bit of challenge to get around that skeleton on the motorcycle. Where could I get such a part? Well, thanks to the Lone Ranger sets which TLG released, I could finally move ahead and make this:

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More images are in this Flickr set

Some details concerning the set: As you can see the from of the motorcycle is connected to the steering / engine part with 3 bars. the two on the top are 6 stud long bars, the one on the bottom is 6.6 studs long. The saddle bags are in black, which makes it a rare piece as it was never released in any LEGO set officially. there are some sellers on Bricklink who have them, but they ask a hefty price. I got mine from Australia :classic:

I hope you enjoy this MOC, feedback is always welcome!

Posted (edited)

Dark tan and dark blue would really complete this vehicle for me as I'm fond of the darker colours.

Lucky you getting the Lone Ranger sets!! I'm still waiting for the release.....

Edited by Mutant Orc
Posted

You've done a great job adapting the action figure toy into LEGO; I do like the blue-bley-black-tan combo that’s a little brighter than the ‘real’ Hasbro toy. :thumbup:

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As you can see the from of the motorcycle is connected to the steering / engine part with 3 bars. the two on the top are 6 stud long bars, the one on the bottom is 6.6 studs long.

It looks like the 'real' Hasbro toy only has the two bars. Was it too weak if you just used the two? (I know they're not attached right now, but you could use two 1x1 plates with clips instead of the jumper to attach to the two upper bars.)

I'm thinking this might look better with some tiles added to the sides?

I'm not sure. I think that would be too fat, and break up the smooth edges and angles of the wedge plates, even if there are some studs exposed.
Posted

It looks like the 'real' Hasbro toy only has the two bars. Was it too weak if you just used the two? (I know they're not attached right now, but you could use two 1x1 plates with clips instead of the jumper to attach to the two upper bars.)

Nope, the 'real' one genuinely has three bars; you can see it better in this picture:

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Posted

Ah, I see. Maybe it would be better then if you used the clips to attach to the two upper bars and the jumper for the lower bar, so that the lower bar would be parallel to the upper bars instead of to the ground. (Shorter lower bar might be necessary; I'm not sure.)

Posted

I tried that, but it makes the vehicle rather wobbly; this was a very rigid way of sorting the issue; the 6.6l bar is tightly fitted between a Technic brick w. axle and a 1x2 plate w; 1 stud. In the 'real' model the low bar is between the steering column on the top and the radiatror at the bottom; I did accomplish that at least :wink:

If there are better ways then please show me; the great thing about MOCs is that they are never finished :classic:

Posted

Nice work, and good attention to detail.

May I suggest that you flip the grey half-pyramid on the nose around? The Hasbro version has the slope on the top.

Posted

Nice work, and good attention to detail.

May I suggest that you flip the grey half-pyramid on the nose around? The Hasbro version has the slope on the top.

You are right about that one, it was also noticed by someone from another forum. I'll be making new pictures this weekend to replace the current ones; I feel deeply ashamed :wink:

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