Selander

MOC: Swedish shunter littera V5 with onboard decoupling in the "tw

Recommended Posts

gallery_8966_235_3881.png

This V5 shunter has been called Swedish state railways "most angular shunter locomotive". SJ bought 40pcs of it from german Henschel in the 1970:s. The original colorscheme is orange + darkblue, so the brandnew darkblue train windows from set 60007 came very handy.

I built totally 3pcs - two in orange/darkblue and one in the actually used blue/red/black colorscheme. The blue locomotive and one of the orange are technically identical, with a vertical PF L-motor + battery box and IR-receiver to compose a fully autonome loco. All are 8wide and they feature a 3-axle design (similar to the prototype) where the mid axle is floating in a technic element (a new innovative usage to my point-of-view ), and train magnets are attached upside-down in rotatable beams to allow it to follow rolling stock in curves and points.

8420192890_b9408bef3b_b_d.jpg

8420192922_10c93638da_b_d.jpg

8419094305_2f3192ea75_b_d.jpg

The 2nd orange V5 may look optically similar but this is a "slave" locomotive without propulsion. It means it have to work in pair with the other orange V5. Instead of propulsion it features a linear actuator attached to the magnet which is driven by a PF M-motor + PP3 battery and IR-receiver. This allows easy remote control decoupling of rolling stock !! See picture below from underneath, also I'll try to upload a short video showing decoupling on my Flickr account.

8419094315_c6dd5dbd4b_b_d.jpg

Hope you enjoy and feel free to comment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Those are lovely engines, especially as it is remarkable hard to fit PF in to such a small body. I'd be quite interested to build one if you're willing to share instructions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great little shunters, very similar to some private user industrial ones here in the UK. As cei has said, if you would be willing to share instructions that would be great!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The idea with the linear actor for remote decoupling is also very nice...

Working at that already quite a while but the perfect idea didn't come to me yet. Already tried something similar but with a small linear actor in boogie. But the small one is 3 studs wide what makes it even more complicated...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Brilliant! I can't wait to see a video of the whole thing in action. Your linear actuator decoupler idea is the most original I've seen yet. Well done!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys.

I uploaded a video of the loco lying up-side-down just to show the functionality. I'll try later to make a better video ...

Click the Flickr link to my account there to see it.

Cheers / Selander

Edited by Selander

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very Nice! It's great to see more Swedish locomotives, the decoupler is a nice touch too. Did you use vinyl stickers for the dark blue windscreen on the orange loco?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A nice pair of locos there. I would also like to add a decoupler to one or more of my shunters, but am not sure how to make them? I have seen on here people use medium PF motor but have not been able to figure out how it is connected mechanism wise. Any detailed instruction would be good. I try to think how do you stop the motor at the right distance etc?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very Nice! It's great to see more Swedish locomotives, the decoupler is a nice touch too. Did you use vinyl stickers for the dark blue windscreen on the orange loco?

Thanks all for your kind comments.

Dark blue windscreen is brandnew from set 60007, ref 6567c03 on Bricklink.

@all asking for instructions: Sorry it's generally not possible due to consuming an enormous amount of time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A nice pair of locos there. I would also like to add a decoupler to one or more of my shunters, but am not sure how to make them? I have seen on here people use medium PF motor but have not been able to figure out how it is connected mechanism wise. Any detailed instruction would be good. I try to think how do you stop the motor at the right distance etc?

Have you seen the video from underneath at flickr?

I also use a PF medium motor right above the actuator. Motor has a gearing driving a second gear that you can spot in the video.(2x same gear)

The drivers cab is filled with a PP3 battery and the rear contains the IR receiver.

Normally the actuator is out at full stroke, it stops there automatically. When you want to start decoupling simply start the motor and retract the actuator full stroke inwards or until you see that magnets are enough separated. I think a stroke of approx 4 studs is needed. The big actuator I use gives a sufficient stroke to do the job.

Edited by Selander

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all for your kind comments.

Dark blue windscreen is brandnew from set 60007, ref 6567c03 on Bricklink.

Oh I didn't even realize they made it in dark blue, lol. I guess now I'll have to pick up a that set.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I kind of remeber these little shunters from my last trip to Scandinavia, and as far as my memory goes, these ones are spot on! I love the decoupling mechanism, the line actuator is both simple and elegant. The only downside of the line actuator is ofcourse the fact that you cannot power your locomotive anymore, but this idea to fix this with a second shunter is in fact very clever.

However, excuse me if I'm wrong, shouldn't the frame be a tad higher of the tracks? Maybe raise the distance between the wheels and the frame with 1 or 2 plates?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your engines are remarkable little MOCs. You must have put a lot of thought into how to assemble them in order to get all the details right.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

These are a great little build. I like the way you worked out the floating axle on the powered unit. The decoupler mechanism is great too. That design would work well in the tender of a steam engine too or in the US on a cow-calf pair of first generation yard switchers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

... a cow-calf pair of first generation yard switchers.

Would you mind translating that please?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yet another truly beatiful Moc Selander :wub:! It really looks like the original, and I like the techniques you´ve used. Well done!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...a cow-calf pair of first generation yard switchers.

Would you mind translating that please?

I assume this means shunters that work as master and slave. There were three in the UK like this designated as British Rail class 13. They wer basically a pair of permanently coupled class 08 shunters one of which had its cab removed:

73795a20362d56bab877104818c0ff2a.jpg

Edited by English Electric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I assume this means shunters that work as master and slave. There were three in the UK like this designated as British Rail class 13. They wer basically a pair of permanently coupled class 08 shunters one of which had its cab removed:

Yep, exactly, though generally the b-unit never had a cab to begin with. It was cheaper to build a cabless unit but presumably the extra hassle operating it over its lifetime did not justify the initial savings. Here's an example of an American one, and the wikipedia page.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.