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Found 16 results

  1. A motorized trophy truck model controlled by BuWizz. It is propelled by two RC buggy motors. Features drive, steering, full suspension, and working headlights. Functions/features: Drive Steering Full suspension Working headlights Instructions available on Rebrickable: This is a MOC with an interesting backstory. I first decided to do my third MOC in the Red Beryl series (after my Red Beryl GT in 2018 and AWD supercar Red Beryl X in 2019) in late 2020 shortly after my first MOC featuring BuWizz and RC buggy motors - my Azure Racer XL. Unlike the finished model, my first attempt used CLAAS Xerion tires and had the RC buggy motors in the chassis instead of having the wheels directly attached to them. I don't recall exactly, but I even included a two-speed gearbox in the model thanks to the inclusion of a drivetrain and differential from the motors. The model turned out much larger than anticipated, meaning the bodywork would have to be very large as well. Given the model was already performing below my expectations, I decided to abandon the project...until two years later. I knew a good first step would be to use smaller wheels, and the spiky treaded tires from the 42124 and 42126 sets seemed to be a perfect fit for a trophy truck. The rear suspension is similar to that of my Azure Racer XL (it even retains the same basic geometry), although it is a solid axle this time instead of the left and right wheels being independently suspended. However, the suspended section is longer on this model, providing a softer suspension with more travel. I guess the shock absorber setup here is not the most realistic for a trophy truck (as most trophy trucks I've seen have their rear shocks more or less vertical), but the suspension setup nevertheless performed well. The front suspension is a typical double wishbone setup with the entire front axle tilted 10.8° for positive caster. Because the front and rear shock absorbers sit approximately half-compressed while the model is on the ground, it did impact the front ground clearance a little, although it was not really an issue when I tested it. The BuWizz unit is located directly in front of the rear axle and is placed low in the chassis to lower the center of gravity. The two RC buggy motors are each connected to its own BuWizz port (as recommended by BuWizz), with another port used for the PF Servo motor for steering. Because there is one port left on the BuWizz unit, I added two pairs of PF LEDs to the headlights. Thanks to the BuWizz speed settings they can shine brighter than when powered by a PF power source, although in my video I did not film it with the lights on as I did not want the BuWizz to cut power from the drive motors. Designing the bodywork was surprisingly challenging. I wanted to stick to pieces I already have as much as possible. The choice of wheel arches/fenders was easy - I used the black arches from the 42126 set paired with fenders from the 42125 set, adding some much-needed curvature to the model. The hood was also straightforward, as it is comprised entirely of 3x13 curved panels. Because the front axle sits at an angle for positive caster, I attached a front bar to it that allowed for an angle normally not achievable with angled connectors. I tried to avoid blue pins as much as possible, using red or gray pins in place of them. The doors were more challenging and it took me a few tries to get the desired result. I wanted to ensure the doors stand out from the rest of the model, but too much curvature looked weird. I went with a design where they slightly recess into the model. The section between the doors and rear fenders was perhaps the most difficult, as it needed to provide a transition from the relatively flat doors to the curved rear fenders. I went with all curved panels and liftarms for this area. I did have to order some new red pieces for the bodywork, namely the curved 1x2 and 3x2 panels at the top edge of the doors and the red 2x3 and 2x5 liftarms in the section between the doors and rear fenders, but the bodywork still mainly consisted of red pieces I already had. System pieces (tiles and curved slopes) are used to fill in the gaps in these areas. The roof was a simple build, although securing it was a bit challenging as it had a tendency to tilt forward. I had to experiment with the A-pillars a little bit but settled on a setup with 7L flex axles. The rear of the model is left rather unfinished to reduce weight, although that is pretty typical of real-life trophy trucks, and the single spare wheel in the back provides just enough weight for the front and rear axles to sit at similar heights when the model is on the ground. The model performed pretty well, and the two RC buggy motors gave it plenty of power. I had wanted to drive a fast off-road MOC at a skate park for years now, and this is my first MOC that I filmed at a skate park. It was fun seeing the model drive up and down the slopes, although it still lacked torque to completely drive over the smaller slopes. I had to be careful with letting the drive motors run at full power as in the Fast and Ludicrous speed settings (or even Normal sometimes) the BuWizz would cut power to the motors when overloaded. Accelerating from a stop on Ludicrous mode was pretty much off the table, although I was able to switch into Fast mode after accelerating on the Normal setting. Two RC buggy motors with their inner outputs geared 3:1 was good for fast driving and small obstacles, although more torque and traction are needed to overcome larger slopes/obstacles. Overall, I'm quite impressed with how this model turned out. Despite having more than twice as many pieces as my Azure Racer XL model, the performance did not suffer much and I had a lot of fun driving it around at the skate park. The suspension is also satisfying to watch, as the model can "float" over obstacles with both the front and rear shock absorbers approximately half-compressed when the model is on the ground. Compared to my first attempt at the model two years ago, it shows that the ideal approach to such fast RC buggy motor-powered models is not to build big, but just big enough to achieve optimal performance. Video: Photos:
  2. Another RC motor MOC I am working on. This time the RC motors will be configured differently - they are located in the chassis, placed in a cross configuration so that their inner outputs are lined up. There is a 2-speed remote controlled gearbox at the heart of the chassis along with the RC motors and there will be full long-travel suspension. The front suspension module is already complete, and it will be attached at an angle for positive caster. There will still be some gearing down in the rear suspended portion (e.g. with portal hubs) to ensure the model has sufficient torque. As the name might suggest, this is the third model in my Red Beryl series (not sure why I chose that name, honestly ). It'll be a typical trophy truck with either a fully red body or red with black detailing. I've always wanted to use my older-generation Technic panels from the 8436 set, sorta combining two generations of Lego Technic. Like a typical trophy truck, there will be one or two spare wheels in the back. Like my previous MOC, it will all be controlled by BuWizz. Photo: Update: I initially planned this MOC in late 2020 but decided to cancel it after challenges arose. I revived the project with a smaller scale, simpler drivetrain, and newer Technic panels.
  3. Hi, I think 42099 is a nice starter RC set of the PU line, so I set out to test what else can be brought out of all its parts. I'd like to share with you my set of 5 alternate builds from it. It has been a great exercise for experimenting with different options for suspensions, drivetrains and bodyworks, testing the versatility of this medium-sized set. In the end, all of the alternate models came out with quite different shapes, suspension techniques and motor/gearing setups, and I think I even managed to use those large turntables in some interesting ways. During my builds, I found that the set has a good array of structural elements, of course good drivetrain components, but is a bit limited on gears, axles and body panels. Nevertheless, once you get used to it, more configurations are possible than you would think :) Here are my builds in chronological order. Much more design details and images of each are accessible on the link behind each name. Here I shortly summarize the features and the differentiating factors of them.1) JeepyThis model was inspired by the release of the Jeep Wrangler set and its pendular suspension using the small turntables. - Pendular suspension using large turntables, both front and rear- 4WD slow drivetrain for good climbing, separate front and rear drive- Jeep-like exterior, focusing on the shape of the hood and the grill, plus the roll-cage 2) BuggyInspired by the release of the RC Buggy set, with this model the goal was to test how fast the the two XL motors can be geared up, along with creating a slick bodywork. - Independent long travel suspension with longer swing-arms both front and rear, high ground clearance- Fast up-geared rear wheel drive, independent for left and right wheel without differential- Positive caster angle at the front axle- Light-weight curvy bodywork, custom built seat 3) BeastyThis model aimed to test the possibility of building a live axle rear suspension using the large turntable, along with coupled motors for a stronger drivetrain. - Live axle rear suspension with push-rods for extreme articulation, independent front suspension- 4WD drivetrain with coupled motors driving both front and rear axles, adjustable gearing- Rough exterior, minimalistic interior 4) QuadroThe goal of this model was to build something other than a car, and to experiment with an unconventional motor setup. - Independent front suspension with positive caster angle, trailing arm rear suspension- V-engine built out of the joined drive motors, rear wheel drive- Functional steering rod- Chubby bulldog-like quad shape, bullbar 5) TrophyWith this model, I wanted to push the live axle possibilities further, creating long soft travel using only the short springs, and to find a sweet-spot in the up-gearing of the motors. At the same time aiming to create a larger-looking bodywork with the limited array of panels. - Long soft travel live axle rear suspension, independent front suspension- Rear wheel drive with motors built into the rear axle, independent left and right drivetrain without differential, faster gearing- Trophy-truck like exterior with curved front and long tail, imitated spare wheel All models can be controlled with the stock Control+ App, and the batteries can either be directly accessed from the bottom, or can be removed after detaching a few panels. All models are available separately or in a 5-in-1 pack on Rebrickable. I hope this makes you value your 42099 sets even more :) Let me know what you think!
  4. Trophy Truck just from 42077 set (+ Power Functions motors and battery or Buwizz)looking like Baja/Dakar Trophy Truck or Stadium Super Truckusing 88% of parts from 42077dimensions 46x24x21cm3 versions:v1 servo + 2x L motorsv2 servo + 2x buggy motors + Buwizz (for best performance)v3 manual HOG2 main objectives:1) maximalize suspension travel2) prepare RC version manual HOG version:* HOG front wheel steering* front suspension, axle with positive caster* rear super soft suspension 2 RC versions:* front suspension, axle with positive caster* rear super soft suspension* bigger tires*** 54120 Tyre 94.8 x 44 R Balloon*** 92912 Tyre 94.3 x 38 R*** 23798 Tyre Tractor DiA. 107X44* servo motor for steering* enough space for any kind of battery behind cabin*** 8881 Power Functions Battery Box*** 88000 Power Functions AAA Battery Box*** 8878 Rechargeable Battery Box*** Buwizz*** CaDa* 58123 Electric Power Functions IR Receiver + 58122 Electric Power Functions IR Remote Control (where it makes sense, or sBrick)* motors for propulsion:*** 2x 99499 Electric Power Functions Large Motor*** 2x 42908 Electric RC Race Buggy Motor* 8869 Power Functions Control Switch (to invert one of motors when using with LEGO PF)Version with 2 buggy motors and BuWizz weights 1407gAny combination of power and motor configuration is workingWith standard lego battery it is slow and runs mostly on flat surface and small hill, on the other hand Buwizz runs smoooth on any obstacle my other models from 42077 set (can be found on rebrickable and bricksafe):
  5. Hello Guys, My new RC vehicle. It's such a mix rally / baja / trophy truck. - suspension: front: independent / rear: dependent - front wheel steering: servo motor - rear wheel drive: L-motor - 3 pairs of PF led lights
  6. That's my entry for Buwizz fast car contest. The model is a mix of supercar and offroad truck. No, Lamborghini Urus is a bad example. I have heavy duty suspension of Baja truck and rear wheel drive. Body type (not design!) is inspired from Ferrari GTC4 Lusso - long Shooting Brake. I have only one seat - driver's. Other side is reserved by Buwizz. There is a place behind the driver, but long travelling rear axle with Buggy motor need a lot of space in the back. Specs Propulsion motor - RC Buggy motor Steering motor - Servo RC and power - Buwizz 2.0 Front independent supsension with postive caster angle and negative camber in the lowest point (different length suspension arms) Rear live axle suspension Fake winch and roof lights Brown "leather" luxury seat and dashboard (that's luxury Trophy truck) openable doors and bonnet Front suspension arms are 5L and 6L, so in the lowest point frone suspension have negative camber angle. Don't know if it help or not, but it is a fact. In addition, postitive caster should help in straight fast driving. But it is not. Thank you for watching.
  7. Hi! Today I'd like to show my funny steampunk truck. It was created just for fun - not for real off-road :) Short video: Thanks for watching!
  8. Hello everyone! My new creation is a big scale Baja Truck. For the first time, I used two SBricks for better control. Weight is 1920g. It is almost the same as gsia17's awesome Trophy Truck. Since I do not have RC buggy motor, I had to build it using PF motors. Honestly body color is not the best. I just have many red #3 connectors and wanted to use white 19L softaxles. I think it is easier to build it in all white. And using stickers will make it look better. (Though that's not my way:) This Truck is powered by two 8878 rechargeable battery boxes, and propelled by four L motors geared 1:1. Two for each side of rear wheel. Left side of drivetrain is connected to fake V8 engine. Steered by Servo motor, which is connected to steering wheel. Two pairs of LEDs are put behind the front lights. Adding more LED for roof light bar is possible. I tried to make suspension movement like real Trophy Truck. Front module including independent suspension is connected to main chassis at positive caster angle. Rear suspension is solid axle with long trailing arms. Front suspension travel is about 5 studs long, and rear is 7 studs. It was challenging to achieve proper driving speed on bumpy ground using PF motors. The result was not the best, but was acceptable to me. Sbricks did their job so well. As expected, some parts in drivetrain got worn. Especially knob wheels. While I was shooting the video for two hours, they did not affected driving performance. So far they just made noise which is heard in the video. But someday they will certainly be damaged too much and need to exchange. EDIT: I have fixed the problem of knob wheels. Improved drivetrain doesn't damage any gears. :thumbup: Building instructions and more pictures: Rebrickable: https://rebrickable....uck-with-sbrick I hope you like it!
  9. And the title and prize of the best airjitz- Cyclondo, you mean! Jay, will you cut that out already! As I was saying, the title and prize for the best airjitzu-er goes to... Malefesium? Kapau, shh! Goes to Zane! Mostly because I don't have nearly this many trans pieces in any other color, haha! Built for LEGO's Airjitzu Trophy contest. Here it is the pic I used to actually enter the contest, as I figured it would have a better chance than one with a nice and clean background! Thanks for viewing, C&C are welcome!
  10. Hi all, Here's the first moc from my side to present here. As the title says, it's a Trophy Truck, which is a known phenomena by now I guess, seeing all the technic trophy trucks appearing lately Mine however, is supposed to be a little different from the rest, since I like a small technical challenge. I let the pictures speak for themselves first: Trophy truck WIP by Thomas Joling, on Flickr The first mock-up with the initial design ideas visible: pneumatic suspension, 5 RC motors for propulsion. Proportions were out of sinc though; Trophy truck WIP 2 by Thomas Joling, on Flickr Pneumatic suspension discarded to be added again later on. Fixed the proportion issue by shortening the middle part. The front RC unit is now to high up and to much upfront to be properly hidden by any bodywork. The steeringoutput of the unit couldn't be connected to the gearrack either, so a servo had to be put underneath the unit, raising it even more. As it turned out later on, the RC units output wouldn't have been powerfull enough to make the thing steer anyway, due to the combination of the large caster angle on the front wheels and the weight of the unit itself. The large caster angle is achieved by tilting the whole suspension backwards. This was also the reason why the steeringoutput of the rc unit couldn't be connected to the steeringgear. Anxious to try if 2 rc units pack enough punch to power 5 rc motors together, I let the aesthetic issue of the front rc unit for what it was, figuring I could solve that later, and put the thing on the street. Turns out rc units are designed to power 2 rc motors, THAT'S It. The 5 motors caused some unexplainable behaviour from the rc units (sometimes it seemed like one of the units couldn't make up its mind whether it should drive forwards or backwards, regardless of me giving the signal to drive forwards ). This stuttering has caused some broken U-joints in the meantime. This made me try out different driveshaft designs, including springs to keep the darn thing in place; no success either Eventually I found that 2 POOP U-joints together with an extendible axle made of a portal axle hub and wedged belt wheels worked the best without having to use non-lego parts. Now I could definitely see 5 rc motors were really to much for the rc units; the thing could bearly start up without the power shutting down, and once rolling it could only just surpass normal walking pace (instead of ). I decided it would be best to remove 1 rc motor. This would improve reliability, (hopefully) performance and because I could build the middle part more compact, it would improve the aesthetics as well; the front rc unit could be moved backwards and lower down. I put on some unimog tires on 41999 rims for that actual trophy truck feel I turned the units and battery on, put the truck on the ground and slowly moved the joystick forward, and.... nothing! Apparently I already drained two sets of batteries while testing before (i bought them new) so I now have to buy new batteries before continuing.When I've done that, the story will continue
  11. alanboar HK

    MOC: FIFA World Cup Trophy

    We are going crazy to see the match of worldcup in Hong Kong time zone (midnight at HK always) Which team do you like ? Flickr : Creator : Alanboar
  12. Teaser: 7,5 cm travel at back, 3,5 cm travel at front, 1260 g weight, 2 rc motors pics later... Oh, it is yellow.
  13. A little work in progress I started recently. I decided to marry together two of my favorite projects, the LPE and the Oshkosh HEMTT 8x8 trial truck. I'm going to power it by a portable air tank and long air hose. I could use regulated C02 and have a onboard tank (a 20 oz paintball tank), but my tank is running low. HEMTT: LPE: And some progress:
  14. Hi, I organized contest "Trophy 4x4" at our russian language Technic community ( It is at final voting stage. Dont wanna translate all the rules, but main rules are below: Contestants shoul build technic offroader. No cosmic design. Common rules: - AWD - body whidth - 15-17 studs - axle width between rims - 14-16 studs - Wheels can be from 62 to 83. two main discpilines: 1) Standart. You should build your car using reference chassis 4x4, instructiuon is available. Changes of this chassis should be minimal. But you can adjust wheelbase and middle part. Pf is not mandatory, but you should leave free place for it. Mainly design contest. 2) PRO You can build any chassis you want 4x4 or 6x6. PF and demo video is mandatory. For advanced builders who dont want to be limited by simple refence chassis. Author name should be a secret till the end of contest. Authors age is frrm 12 to 30. So dont be too critical:) Here I will post some photos of finalists and info about models. Links to full gallery will be below. You will not find any unique and new ideas below, cause main idea of contest was to create offroaders in similar scale and with real-look design (no copy). STANDART №1 - Trophy Truck 1 XL + 1 М Manual winch, fake engine №2 - Pickup IP SUV 1 L motor + M motor Roof behind the cab is detachable №3 - Expedition-Van 2х L motors, M-motor, L motor for winches front and rear motorized winches with gearbox in the middle. Fake V6. Openable doors. LED front and rear lamps №4 - 1938 Raven HotRod ХЛ + М - motors working fake engine detailed saloon and opneable doors №6 - Road car for active life L + М motors openable doors and trunk №11 - Carston Hawk 2х L + servo Opnable hood, doors and trunk
  15. Hi everybody, Here is my light remote controlled buggy motor powered trophy truck:) More photos and description in my blog. Http:// English translation of description by google here:
  16. Captain Nemo

    Legion of Doom: Trophy Room

    Legion of Doom: Trophy Room Meanwhile in the Legion of Doom’s Trophy Room…nothing is happening. They’re closed on Sundays. I’ve been meaning to make this one for a long time, and finally, it’s been created. I needed more specific bricks then I have on hand in my dorm, but with it now being summer, I had the pieces necessary to make this baby! Oh do I love all the little details and especially all the reverences in here! First Floor The first floor is the largest section of the LOD’s Trophy Room, and features many objects used by the Legion members in their daily activities. These include things such as masks and ranged weapons to Yellow Lantern power batteries! Other notable objects included on the first floor are two missles, a frozen superhero, the last remaining piece of Brainiac, Vandal Savage’s meteorite, as well as Two-Face’s coin and a Freeze canister; and who could forget Joker’s crowbar, used to kill the second Robin! The first floor also features two large viewing boxes which contain classic suits and precious minerals such as Kryptonite. Raised First Floor Just behind the First Floor of the Trophy Room sits a raised section with more objects. This area features many more interesting things from a large Penguin statue to Ra’s al Ghul’s sword! Black Manta’s trident is present, as well as Amazo—the dangerous unbeatable android. A Yellow Lantern ring is also found here, along with an X-Ray image of Batman’s broken back. Finally, the Raised First Floor is home to a miniaturized replica of the miniaturized city of Kandor. Second Floor The Second Floor and final section of the LOD Trophy Room features some famous and not so famous artifacts! Here you can find one of Poison Ivy’s deadly plants as well as some of Scarecrow’s fear toxin—and let’s not forget about a Giant Joker Card! A Scarface dummy is here too—as well as Lex Luthor’s infamous wig collection! Grodd’s mind control helmet is here too, along with statues of a giant black dragon and a giant dime! Enjoy ~Nemo