Eurobricks Knights
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Posts posted by amorti

  1. 43 minutes ago, nerdsforprez said:

    This does leave me with questions however of how this pertains to EB rules and posting.  This is a B model off a Cada set, with Cada parts.  

    It's definitely a valid point, although to counter it, at least since the new Lego Ferrari, I doubt very much if there's anything here you couldn't build with Lego (R) pieces only.

  2. 38 minutes ago, 992bricks said:

    For me it will be a definite buy, but only on a 20-30% discount.

    Even so you're saying you're happy paying up to 120€ for 1375 pieces.

    For me, a set without any electrical parts should be RRP'ed at that sort of money, the retailer shouldn't have to swallow 30€ loss to give it you at that price point.

    These discount tactics don't hurt Amazon. They hurt the small retailers who can't afford those discounts.

  3. 1 hour ago, vectormatic said:

    Looking at the size of some parts, im going to guess this thing wont be packed with features for that price

    Agree. If we compare it to the red abomination, it's cheaper, smaller, and has fewer parts. Anyone who expects a gearbox here is, sadly, dreaming.

    2 hours ago, Ngoc Nguyen said:

    I think Milan worked on this set. He designed similar sets for this price point in the past: 42069, 42110.

    At least we can look forward to some wacky C-models (B-models) :thumbup:

  4. Lego Friends lipsticks will hold those exhausts together.

    There must be a legal way to hold the number plate in the front.

    The tank sides are made of 30+ pieces, with modern levels of QC for colour matching. I'm no system part expert, but must be possible to use fewer.

    What happens to the rear suspension in 'negative travel'? Looks like it'd have slack by the lower pivot point... Pivoting

  5. It has potential, but there's some stuff to work out first.

    The exhausts can almost work like side-stands. Lose the black piece in the middle? 

    I don't really love these new fork pieces. The lack of an axle hole right in the top means they're never going to look correct.

    Do you have any bigger pieces to use in the side panels?

    The rear shocks need better fixing points at the bottom. Even if it's just using another 2L thin and axle-pin to stop the one on there rotating.

  6. 7 hours ago, nerdsforprez said:

    I also bought the 18K Super.  Did a review of it.  Will not post it here because it would definitely be against the rules (already pushing it), but it is on my youtube channel.  

    Overall: great value.  

    T_Lego has said a big problem with the CaDA kit, was his design relies on rotational pin friction in a few places, and CaDA pins don't really have any.

    I guess the kit you got is from GoBricks pieces, and those have friction almost like 90's Lego pins, so I can imagine it would work much better.

    Shame it has to be a pirate copy :(

  7. Could you make a point to use the lower resolution image links?

    This thread takes an age to load on my phone.

    Looks good! The one change I'd like to see is thin lift arms held on with 3/4 pins rather than half pins or axles with bushes, which are old school solutions to that problem and less secure.

    For the linkage, you could use two 6L thin beams. Put black pins between them in the last two holes each end. This can then be placed inside a 6L wishbone. It's a very marginal amount of bending required and would give it a neat symmetrical look.

  8. 1 hour ago, Anio said:

    It would be good to have some transparency about the recruiting process to know what they are really looking for.

    So that people who aren't what they're looking for can save themselves some heartache?

    Read another way: So that people who aren't what they're looking for, can be pretend to be that?

    /devil's advocate.

  9. Name of the game is form locking. If you're relying on axle or pin connections not pulling out, it's not strong enough.

    On each adjoining axle hole, put a 3L axle with stop through two of these guys, one above and one below the gear racks, pointing inward.

    That'll join your circles of 4 quarters, and now you have something to attach liftarms to, in the correct orientation so they're form locked.

    Proviso: I don't have any of those gear racks, so idk if the 3l perpendicular connector is long enough.

  10. Finally (!) had chance to play with this outside today.

    I made the fork legs 7L apart, because at 6L apart the front tyre can catch the springs. Unfortunately, that meant the 8L with stop front spindle reduced ground clearance unacceptably.

    The unbraced bevel box on the rear spindle might be ok for a Lego L motor, but it's not strong enough for a CaDA L motor. Adding the bracing on the outside as I've done also reduces ground clearance unacceptably.

    Both the above problems would be solved by changing the wheels. With a futuristic wheel in the back, the bevel box could be rotated inside the rear frame. With a futuristic wheel, 81.6 or 94mm front wheel, the fork could be 5L wide.

    It's nice to have wheels as a pair, but probably better to use a taller front wheel to add ground clearance. Could make it into a chopper that way. CaDA has a 3 spoke 94mm wheel that would look ok-ish paired with a rear futuristic wheel.


  11. 1 minute ago, andrzejl said:

     I think this happened already - in the beginning of the year I got C61016 (Porsche 919 hybrid) and C61041W (Lamborghini Centenario) and the clutch of most of bricks was too tight, some not enough, and the CaDa version of part 6536 (Technic Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular) was a total disaster. Recently I got C61051W (Claas Scorpion) and C61042W (Pista) and the quality of parts is much better. Clutch is not that tight anymore (easier to build), I encountered in total 2 axles that were too loose (but without consequence to the build) and a few (8 or so) friction pins that acted more like frictionless (but there was a lot of spares to replace them if needed).

    Then it sounds very likely you're right.

    I've actually been using CaDA friction pins as steering bearings on RC motorcycles, because they have nearly no friction but much less play then Lego non-friction pins or axles.