Lowa

Wow, 8 x 64, I did not see that one coming... I just checked and this is what I found: for 6 stud wide cars, the maximum length is 38 studs for 8 stud wide cars, the maximum length is 30 studs I don't immediately see a way to reduce the height of the motor. What could be possible is make a motor with an 'extended arm' so you can move it away from the track.

Yes, we're going to document everything so you can integrate it in your own DIY system if you want to. We'll do that for all the actuator and sensors. We made an API for the controllers and we'll document and publish all the interfacing functions. The goal is to have a modular system where you can combine our components with DIY components. The range is ok but the functionalities are too limited for all the applications I have in mind. For example, I'm working on a train with a 'position sensor' so that the train can track where it is. The train has to transmit that tracking information back to the control system so we need bidirectional communication capabilities. I also have a prototype of a LEGO compatible stepper motor and see some applications for it, you will not be able to control that with either of these to systems. They might work for some applications, and I'll look into it, but at some point we'll need something more powerful...

You're right it doesn't make any sense to ask a fee for a routine that just controls a servo motor. The software (nControl) is free and will remain free for our customers! The subscription is an additional service for people who have asked us to use it with their own hardware - I guess I didn't explain myself well enough... You need three components for the automation system to work: the motor, the controller and a button (either an on-screen or physical button). We'll make all three components. If you get our motors and our controller, you can use the software for free. We don't want to keep our system closed, i.e. you don't have to use all our components. We will document our motors (pin outs, position angles, etc) so you can connect them to your own DIY controller. This will also not require a software subscription. For example, you can connect your controller to DIY buttons or your own software. You will only need a subscription when you want to use your own controllers but still would like to use our software interface with your layout. The subscription is part of the 'modularity' of our system, so that people who don't want to use our hardware can still use the software to interface with their own hardware. The fee is to manage that interface. The track planner is free for everybody and will remain free.

At the moment it's Windows only. But nControl is written in Python using pyside because we wanted to be able to port it to MacOS and Linux. This is something that we'll do, but we still need to figure out how to do this... Raspberry pi would indeed be interesting as you could have a dedicated system just for controlling your layout.

Great ! Absolutely, I'll keep you all posted about the progress we're making.

Thank you! I took a couple of pictures so you can get an idea of the space between the train and the switch motor. The picture below shows the situation with a 6 x 28 base, I put it in the spot where it's closest to the motor. This is the same situation but with a 6 x 34 split-level base: If your passenger cars are even longer, let me know the size of the base and position of the wheel so I can verify whether it's ok... Thank you ! Hopefully the pictures above give you a better idea of the space between the train and the motor. If you need any additional dimensions or verification, please let me know...

Yes, I'm planning to make a range of specialty switches including narrow gauge switches but I first want to focus on the train automation...

At this point, we're too small for licensing deals as they normally involve minimal production quantities ... I understand the reflex of wanting to use the LEGO remotes / receivers, I had it as well. But keep in mind that the LEGO system is infrared (IR) based. After studying and experimenting with the IR technology I came to the conclusion that it's far from optimal for advanced train layouts. There are several issues with IR: it has a limited range ~5m/15ft beyond that it becomes tricky it's very directional. The IR beam usually is about 20 degrees wide. So you cannot use IR when you have a fixed transmitter and receivers at different locations, it only works when you have hand-held device that you can aim at the receiver. the IR signals are blocked by any obstruction, e.g. if there a LEGO building in between the transmitter and receiver it won't work. LEGO's choice for IR makes sense if you look at their target application: small / simple layouts for children. But I think IR technology is too limited for AFOL type of layouts / applications... they require a radio frequency based technology and that's what I'm experimenting with at the moment. To be honest, I haven't tested the motors on 9V switches yet. I talked with a few train enthusiasts about the differences between the 9V and PF/RC switches at Brickworld Tampa a couple of week ago and they told me that 'there are no essential differences between the 9V and PF/RC switches'. Maybe they were just referring to the geometry... Anyway, this is a crucial question that has to answered so I just bought a 9V switch so I can test it. I'll keep you posted! Thank you for letting me know what you think! I'm first going to focus on getting the computer based system out. Once that's done I'll see what we need to build an 'button operated' version.

I managed to make the half curve as well. It was a bigger challenge than the straights but it done!

The controllers have their own 'operating system' that you cannot change; this is needed to have a robust / fail proof system. However, you have full access to the functionalities of the controllers from the nControl software through Python scripting. This gives you full flexibility in what you can do. Standard users can use the preprogrammed tiles (on screen buttons) while advanced users can write their own functionalities and link them to tiles. We try to provide as much flexibility as possible, if you ever encounter a limitation in accessibility, let us know and we'll check to see if we can overcome it... We choose for an approach were the main process is not running on the controllers but on the computer. This allows easily interaction between the controllers, for example, if one controller detects a train, the software can respond by sending signals to flip switches, traffic lights, crossing barriers, etc. Communication between different controllers is native in nControl, you don't need to pull any special tricks to do this. To goal is to create a platform to build custom central control centers for your layouts. Look at it like a 'LEGO brick' concept but with electronics and software instead of plastic bricks.

Yes, we're using a '9g' type servo but a high end version: the Tower Pro SG92R; that's a (more powerful) digital servo that has carbon fiber reinforced gears. The one you showed is most likely an analog servo; it has nylon gears which are less durable. Also be aware of the fact that there are a lot (really a lot...) of fake ones out there. I'm not familiar with the details of the HEXTRONIK product range but the picture you show looks like a counterfeit one. The little rectangle on top of the servo normally has the name of the manufacturer molded into it. If that rectangle doesn't have a name, like on your picture, that's usually an indication it's a fake. I got received some fake Tower Pros a while ago and they clearly under performed during our reliability tests; they were also less powerful. We now get them directly from Tower Pro just to be sure we get genuine ones. We designed a brick to connect to motor to the switch, it has an internal mechanism to actuate the switch. We designed the mechanism in such a way that the motor has enough power to flip the switch 'as is' (= you don't need to remove the notch of the switch to reduce the force you need to switch it) It was indeed a challenge... but it works now!

Yes, we have motor-controller extension cables. We currently have: 30cm / 1ft 45cm / 1.5ft 1m / 3.3ft We also found a 2m / 6.6ft cable but we haven't tested it. The controller will come with a 1.3m / 4.3ft USB cable. We haven't looked into controller-computer extension cables but we will. The controller uses a standard USB cable, so you could use any USB extension cable that you can find.

If all goes well we'll have the first batch available in our bricklick store by the end of next week / beginning of the following week.

It should be possible to modify the connection of the motor so it fit on the double crossover. We'll certainly take a look at that. This is not as straightforward as it might seem. LEGO has released the power functions RC protocol (http://www.philohome.com/pf/LEGO_Power_Functions_RC_v110.pdf) however the document clearly states you can only use this for non-commercial purposes (page 2) and we want to respect that... I'm looking at a radio frequency based system as a better alternative: large range and not directional like the IR (you don't need to aim at the receiver). Thank you! Personally, I also like the idea of 12V style buttons. I have the feeling that a functional control center build out of LEGO bricks would look very cool. I haven't started working on it, so I don't have a clear view of the components that I would need, but it will be more expensive than a software based system... Level crossings and buffers will certainly be added to the software as we're working on special (small) servo motors for level crossing barriers; we also designed a LEGO compatible buffer track. The picture below shows our prototypes of the buffer track (right), half straight track (middle) and the quarter straight track (left).

If you use our 4DBrix controllers: the motors will be $15 / motor. the controllers will be $40 / controller, each controller can handle 4 motors. (The controller is embedded is a brick that has a 4 x 6 foot print and is 2 bricks + 1 tile high) the control software is free. If you use your own Adruino controllers: the motors will be $15 / motor. the controllers: your own Arduino the control software: you will need a subscription which will be $12/ year We're currently making the first systems. If all goes well they should be available by the end of the year / beginning next year !

You indeed need quite a lot for force to flip a LEGO switch, and this strains the connection between the motor and switch. Making sure the motors don't come lose was one of the main challenges during the development process... but we managed. The control boxes connect to a PC with a USB cable. We have a track planning / automation software (nControl) that allows you to flip the switches and monitor your layout. The advantage of a software is that you can fully automate your layout, e.g. interlink sensors, motors, traffic lights, etc. You can download nControl for free from: https://www.4dbrix.com/downloads/index.php However, it would be possible to create a 'manual controller' that allows you to flip the switches by pushing buttons. We could make the 'skeleton' of the buttons and the you could use regular LEGO brick to build a control panel around the buttons. I could give you something similar to the old 12V switch controls. Is that what you had in mind with 'flip them by hand' ?

Thank you! I started producing the half and quarter narrow gauge straights today, so you can mark that as done! Concerning the 'half curves', just to make sure, you're talking about the narrow gauge right ? This implies you would like to have a 22.5 degree turn narrow gauge track, right ? That would be the narrow gauge equivalent of a standard gauge curve.

That's a good idea. I'm just bought some. Once I get them I will add the grove in the wheel and fine tune the tread diameter.

We're looking forward seeing you in our store! About the adapter, that's a nice idea and not that hard now that we have the model for the narrow gauge track. I made a slightly different design than you posted; I tried to give it a more 'LEGO train' feel. I made 2 variants, see below. The one on the left has a 'standard track section', the one on the right has a transition to match the shape of the single rails. I think the one on the right is nicer... what do you think ? About the half (8 studs long) and quarter (4 studs long) straight tracks. I already designed them for the standard gauge and I'll start making them soon. Would you also want them for the narrow gauge ? What do you mean with half curves ? Do you mean a half of the standard LEGO curve ? It's possible to do that, but it wouldn't be easy to get that into a layout because if you don't run the track horizontal/vertical it's very hard/impossible to close the loop. I am thinking about making 'diagonal track' like we did for the monorail. Those tracks allow you to run the track diagonally without any issues to close your layout.

Yes, everything we make is for sale in our 4DBrix bricklink store. The ultimate goal is to create whatever you need to turn your 'LEGO train layout' into a 'model train layout made of LEGO (compatible) bricks'. We want to create all the missing components to do that: specialty track segments, accessories like these narrow gauge wheels, etc. We also want to provide everything you need to automate your train layout: motors, controllers, sensor and software. If there is something that doesn't exist but you think it should, let us know and we'll take a look at it!

These are the diameters: small LEGO train wheel (50254) flange: 14.6 mm / 0.57" tread: 8.2 mm / 032" large LEGO train wheel (57878) flange: 22.8 mm / 0.90 " tread: 16.4 mm / 0.65" 12T bevel gear: 12.7 mm / 0.50 " So the small train wheel is slightly larger than the 12T bevel gear so it should work on straight and curved track. But the tread diameter is too small to make it work on the cross tracks and switches. For my medium wheel I took the average diameter of the small and large LEGO wheel, this gives: flange: 18.7 mm / 0.74 " tread: 12.3 mm / 0.48" So that's just too small for the 12T bevel gear. Strangely enough, the LEGO train wheel with traction tire (57999) is slightly bigger then the one without: flange: 23.8 mm / 0.94 " tread: 17.4 mm / 0.69" Taking the average with the small wheel gives: flange: 19.2 mm / 0.76 " tread: 12.8 mm =/ 0.50" So that's just large enough. Maybe we should take a small safety margin of 0.2 mm and make the wheel with a tread diameter of 13mm and a flange diameter of 19.4mm. What do you think ? Having a version with a traction tire seems like a good idea. Giving it a groove should not be a big deal, making a traction tire is a different story. I could give it a try with a 'flexible' (= rubbery) filament. I have never used that though, so I have no idea what to expect...

Narrow gauge switches are on the to do list ! I already made a successful print of a curved narrow gauge section. So now I need to merge the model of the straight and curved section and add a switch mechanism. I'm not sure when I will do this because I want to focus on train automation during the coming weeks...

Ok, that makes sense. I created the model and printed a few. I also create a model of wheel in between the 57999 and 50254. I printed them in dark gray because that's what I have on the printers at the moment, but I could do them in black. The picture below shows the wheels compared to the LEGO train wheels. Is that what you're looking for ?

I agree, we'll verify to make sure it's as compatible as possible with the various wheels out there. Yes, we'll be printing them and making them available for purchase ! We already have an extended range of monorail tracks and plan to do the same for trains. We had our filament supplier create a dark bluish gray filament so our 3D printed track will blend in with the LEGO track. The narrow gauge straights will be $4.95 in the US and €4.95 in Europe. Hey Hod Carrier, We're printing the first batch at this very moment. If all goes well they should be in our 4DBrix bricklink store (http://www.bricklink.com/store/home.page?p=4DBrix#/shop) next week. We'll have them in dark bluish gray and black. We're located in the US but we have a distributor in Europe. If you want to pre-order you can contact us on info@4dbrix.com. We are certainly going to make narrow gauge switches. Wider radius curves is an option too but we don't have any concrete plans at this point.

I haven't seen that many narrow gauge trains, so it's indeed hard to say whether there is a "standard' or not. However, the two wheels JopieK referred to have the same flange depth. It thus seems that LEGO did standardize its train (like) wheels. The diameter of the rim face of the 50254 is half of that of the 57999; while the flange depth is the same. That cannot be a coincidence, especially as the flange depth is the standard plate thickness. I guess we can assume that was an intentional choice from LEGO and thus consider it as an 'official LEGO standard'...